1.8 8v cis-e that won't rev past 5000rpm

S

spike

New member
I had my ITB golf out this weekend for the first time ever. (Trackday with PDA @ Limerock) that car was running OK @ idle the egt read 895 & the wb 10.5 on the first lap I went easy to let everything warm-up ect.
after the second lap the car would not pull
Over 5000rpm, egt 1285 wb 21.
I was told ,I want the egt to be apx. 1250 @ 6000rpm and the wb 12.5
But the engine was flat @ 4000 and would not rev over 5000 .
when I came in I pulled the plugs, like new
as if I pulled out of the box. no carbon, no
White frost tips.
Note: I do have the 02 sensor disconnected.
I think I have a fuel pump problem and I am
Ordering a CIS tester to night.
I would appreciate any help your could offer
spike

------------------
87 ITB Golf
True speed is in the turns
 
I don't really know much about the CIS-E systems, but I believe that they have a knock sensor that retards the timing, if it detects detonation. What's your ignition timing set at (total advance)? Also, if you're having a fuel delivery problem, the car may have been leaning out at the top, and therefore, starting to detonate. The knock sensor may have saved you in this case.

BTW, I assume the WB reading of 21 was a typo.

------------------
MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
 
I agree with Bill, or the cam belt moved a tooth.

I'd check cam and ignition timing. Will it rev over 5,000 rpm with no load? Might also check for electrical issues. Might not be getting enough voltage to get the coil to put out 5,000 rpm's.



------------------
Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 GP Wabbit
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

racer_tim @ yahoo dot com
 
Is it not pulling under load or not?
Is it worse or is it a problem that is constant?

Did it ever rev past 5,000 rpm's ???

More details and we can probably help you a little better.

Raymond
 
Make sure that you have power and ground to your computer. If not you will be in a limp home mode.Sounds like that is where you are now.
 
I had a very similar experience with my ITB Golf's first outing. It was an excercise in patience to get through that first weekend.

We determined that it was a fueling issue, and went through the whole system. New pumps, swapped tank (seemed a bit gunky in the old one), new filter, and went to the dyno. The car was still running lean, we made a fuel enrichment device and it runs great now.

It was running lean enough that I am lucky to not have broken at that first event. However we gained 20+hp over the pitiful state of tune that we started in.

HTH

Chris
 
I'm in the cam belt skipped a tooth camp. I had similar symptoms. Engine wouldn't pull past 5K or so. All the power in the low end of the band. Check the alignment marks!

Jim
 
Originally posted by Bill Miller:
I don't really know much about the CIS-E systems, but I believe that they have a knock sensor that retards the timing, if it detects detonation. What's your ignition timing set at (total advance)? Also, if you're having a fuel delivery problem, the car may have been leaning out at the top, and therefore, starting to detonate. The knock sensor may have saved you in this case.

BTW, I assume the WB reading of 21 was a typo.
Click to expand...



[This message has been edited by spike (edited April 12, 2005).]
 
Originally posted by spike:


[This message has been edited by spike (edited April 12, 2005).]
Click to expand...

24deg's total locked out
21wb was not a typo
no knock sensor

[This message has been edited by spike (edited April 12, 2005).]
 
Originally posted by racer_tim:
I agree with Bill, or the cam belt moved a tooth.

I'd check cam and ignition timing. Will it rev over 5,000 rpm with no load? Might also check for electrical issues. Might not be getting enough voltage to get the coil to put out 5,000 rpm's.
Click to expand...

it would rev to red line with noload

[This message has been edited by spike (edited April 12, 2005).]
 
I emailed BSI they said to check the full throttle switch and the fuel press.
Please keep your ideas coming. I will check what sever suggested.
I will be working on the car on Saturday.
Thanks everyone.
 
Basic checks
1) Check base engine timing make sure all your timing marks line up.
2) Set ignition timing and perform computed timing check, Make sure knock sensor box vacuum hose is attached to the control unit (right side of cowl)
3) Check fuel pump output out of tank and check fuel pump output out of main fuel pump. Tank pump is low-pressure high output feed pump.
4) Control fuel pressure should be 5.5 bar. Multiply this by 14.7 to get Psi.
5) Check Electro Hydraulic actuator with an amp meter hooked up in series with the actuator. At idle stock setting is 10 mil. Amps and at party throttle it should be fluctuating from 10-7 mil amps stock. When you apply the throttle switch you should see fuel enrichment on your meter.
6) Check base mixture with the car at normal operating temperature.
7) You can make an easy wire adapter by using an old 3-wire oxygen sensor plug end and a GM or Ford fuel injector terminal end. When you make this adapter it makes diagnostics very easy.

If you want you can contact me at 805 965-6142



------------------
Gary Semerdjian
#98 Corrado ITS
 
As mentioned, sounds like a distributor issue but I would also check your cylinder compression to be sure you have engine integrity - that would limit your rpms under load also.

Is your fuel pump new? With no knock sensor your distributor advance function probably doesn't work (I don't run a CIS-E but I have helped troubleshoot them a time or two)so you may want to set your timing at 32 btdc, 24 may not be enough.

good luck
 
the ignition control module. the correct name is iirc ignition control unit (ICU) looks something like this:
B6135230590993129419


its up in rain tray near the jetronic ecu on mk2 cars.

we recently had to debug some stuff off of a freinds recently acquired mk2 jetta GLI. his car tended to hit a brick wall at certain RPMs.. turns out both the fuel distributor and the main fuel pump were on their respective ways out.. swapped them out with spares we had about and everything worked as it should..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top