1st Gen.:rear disc removal LSD Diff.

R

RX767

New member
I am attempting to remove the rear discs on the stock 3.93 LSD to have them machined or replaced. I do not think this differential has ever been out of my car since every bolt and brake fitting seems to be seized. I removed the two screws (with an impact wrench) and I thought the disc would pull off, it will not. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I also have the following ad in the classified section:"I have an '81 ITA car and I looking for the entire package to bolt into my car with a recently rebuilt or barely used LSD unit with a 4:88 ring and pinion.
I will be welding G-Force's GT panhard to the driver's side of the housing.Unlike mine, the housing should be clean of other welded material. E-Mail:[email protected]" Any help or advice to locate one will be a great help.

Thank you.
Bill Emery
ITA #67
 
Not quite sure but i believe it might be rusted onto the axle housing. Try to soak it with penetration oil and then you might have to hit it with a hammer to break it loose.
 
Getting the rear rotors off of a 1st gen can be a royal PITA! Last week, I had to pound, (somewhat vigorously), mine off with a deadblow hammer. Cleaned everything up and antiseized it all. Sun, I needed to take them off again, (don't ask why), and still had to resort to the deadblow. If they haven't been off for a good long while, plan on replacing them, as you'll probably dent them, or warp them getting them off. If anyone else has a better method, I'm all ears.
 
I've used a slide hammer that bolts directly to the wheel studs (or lug bolts if they haven't been updated)to pull the alxe completely out, and since you are going to either rebuild the 3.93(3.90), and/or replace it with a 4.88., you need both axles slightly removed to remove the pumpkin. Once the axles are out, it makes it easier to remove the discs from the axles. Remove the complete backing plate and leave the triangle plate. Nothing is worse than seeing a racer with the rear backing plates still there. This will give the rears the most in cooling from passing air.
Be sure to check the bearings (axle) by spinning the axle whilst holding the bearing both alxe pointing down and pointing up. If you feel any grit, replace them.
Reinstalling the discs on the axles, use a low grit sand paper, or sand-wheel to clean the mating surfaces of the inside of the dics where the axle end meets. Once these are separated from eachother, each time should be a lot easier.

Replace all of those rear stock nuts with nylock nuts ran up a little more than snug. Control arm ends, if used as well. You don't want the the suspension to bind.

Too much info here?


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Corey L. Clough
ITS RX7 Soon-To-Be
[email protected]
 
Turn9, exactly how I would do it if I were pulling the diff. But to just pull the rotors? Still, it should get better if done on a routine basis.
 
If the rotors won't come off by force, then a greater force is needed. Heat one and cool the other, or make a trip to the junk-yard and try again.

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Corey L. Clough
ITS RX7 Soon-To-Be
[email protected]
 
Thanks for the advice. With vigorous pounding and half of a can of WD40, they are off.

Bill Emery
ITA #67
 
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