88 VW Golf 16v For circle track racing

T

tjracer02

New member
We are in the process of building a ministock race car out of an 1988 VW Golf with a 16v 1.8. We are going to run the car on a half mile paved track with little banking, and on a 1/3 mile track with lots of banking. I am just looking for some things that will help the car run decent. We cannot run the coilover springs and shocks as we have to have the stock type struts and any stock spring that will fit in. Other than that we can pretty much do just about anything to the car. Anyone out there that could post a few things we could to the car? Any info would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Where are you running? I'm moving to the boonies pretty quick here and am looking at circle track rules again myself.

K
 
Make sure your rules allow VW(s).

Old prejudices against air-cooled mini-stockers in our area means NO VOLKSWAGONS period.

Crazy but true.

Completely gut the car--it needs tp be as light as possible.

Bigger engine OK?

Bolt a 4spd to it (if possible)--weight again. Weld the diff.

Positive camber for one side, negative for the other on that banked track.

What do they allow for "tars"?
 
I have run a roundy VW, and are just doing it again. The same rules apply , only backwards. reduce the right front weight, by increasing the LR weight, run as tight as a diff as you can get by with. The Quaife seems to pass tech as an open Diff. We cant run a 16 V, only 2 vavle stuff. the max carb is a Holly 350. The holley witll rev to about 7500 or so, maybe more. The carb will rev better than the FI and weighs less. Even if the cross section of the carb is less than the throttle body. Most of the cars are Mustangs with 2300cc. They are a very good race car. The weight is 2150 for VW and 2400 fro the Fords. I also rear steer the car by softening the bushings and shimming the RR out about .25 in and the LR in about .25in. This reduces the RF weight and increases the LF weight in the turns. I also run the Bilstein shox or reoil the GTI shox with 40weight, or type F and . the LF and the RRare the stiffest shock settings, while the RF is fairly soft. I also move the brake bias ports to the same , LF and RR get the most brake, helps turn in.
I gear for the best torque at the turn exit, this often over revs at the end of the straight.
You need to draw a power curve and try to spend as much time at the highest points. Most successful passing situations are begun at the turn exit and finished at the far turn exit. My best success( 2 track champ) has been with a car that could run for an outside pass, with good(or the best) exit speed.
I also us a oil tray and either a trap door pan or extend the pickup to the right end,and weld a shelf in the end of the pan so that the oil cant run up too high. Mobil one or Syntec only.
Google up Citrus county speedway for our rules, if you need more info. Ther is also a Yahoo group that is real quiet, but it is there.mailto:[email protected]
Round round is a lot of fun and teaches a lot about racing. I have instructed a lot of racers over the years. It is easier to take a good round racer and make a great road racer . A lot of SCCA guys just cant stuff that fender in there.
Mike Ogren

PS I have a golf and Jetta, I am building the Jetta, because the weights are the same but the Jet has more butt and a little bit less front weight as a result. Also the 2dr Golf parts are worth money, while the 4 door stuff is worth a lot less. I have a pile of doors and a spare shell or two. The rear bumper is farther from my seat also... MM
 
Thanks alot for the information on here as i am new to this ministock racing. I am going to race in central wisconsin at a couple of tracks. We have to run a DOT 7" tire that cost less than 50 bucks? Most are running the sumo tires at the tracks where I have seen. We are currently cutting weight out of the car right now and are replacing the front end to make it look more like a race car. How do you lock the differentail in this type of car with the transmission being hooked directly to the engine?

Thanks for the help
 
The tranny is properly known as a "Transaxle" meaning it has the transmission gears and differential (i.e. the "rear end") all in one box.

There is a ring and pinion in there and the ring gear is bolted to a differential carrier--with spider gears--just like a rwd rear end.

You "lock" the spider gears to lock it--either by welding or even with a spool (which is available for FWD VW applications. YOU CAN ALSO USE A LIMITED SLIP ARRANGEMENT.

Everything is there as in any car. It is just more compact.

Good luck.
 
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