91 CRX Si ITA Build

R

raffaelli

New member
So, I have tooled around with the car long enough, time to start building it. Had an 'incident' with the car which forced me to replace the driver fender and hood etc. So I started to pull it part the other day. I have collected the parts I need to fix it. I will do that first then track prep it.

Right now, I am looking to be track ready in the Fall of 07. This is a family project that we will pick at as time and money allow.

A bunch of you have already helped me out with advice and such, thank you. Any input you haved is appreciated!

How do you suggest I fix the solid sunroof panel. I want to remove the track, motor, etc. What is the prefered method to fix the panel?

I was thinking of welding flat stock.
 
I bolted mine with small aluminum angle that went between the panel fixing points and the side seams of the opening. I also saw a nice job on another car where they bent the side seams over than pinched them between the panel and the metal bracket that surounds the panel.

If your pinched for money, make sure you get out what you can. If your sunroof is working properly it is worth decent money on ebay. Mine worked fine and I took a short video of it opening and closing and got $90 for it on ebay without the panel. Some of the ones on ebay with rust-free panels were going for $200.
 
I covered the hole on my old A car with a "skillfully" cut piece of smoked plexiglas. Drew a bead of silicone close to the edge of the plastic, then pop riveted it to the roof. I've seen better, and I've seen worse, but few have been lighter. That sun roof stuff is heavy!
 
I've seen better, and I've seen worse, but few have been lighter.
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Not that I'm a rules nerd, but what you did isn't legal either.

To the OP, per the rules you're supposed to use a sheet of metal the same gauge as the surrounding roof. The cleanest ways I have seen is people make a cardboard template of the hole and trace that to a piece of sheet metal and then trace another that follows the original but enlarged by say 3/4" to an 1" all the way around. They cut that, you could use tin snips, and the extra is that you have is cut into tabs so to speak and bent at a 90" angle. So, you now hae a piece of metal that will just fit right in and then just bend those tabs back and use them as places to rivet/sheet metal screw to something secure around it.

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=530379&page=2

see the post about half way down by keithv to see what I'm talking about.

s
 
I bolted mine with small aluminum angle that went between the panel fixing points and the side seams of the opening. I also saw a nice job on another car where they bent the side seams over than pinched them between the panel and the metal bracket that surounds the panel.

If your pinched for money, make sure you get out what you can. If your sunroof is working properly it is worth decent money on ebay. Mine worked fine and I took a short video of it opening and closing and got $90 for it on ebay without the panel. Some of the ones on ebay with rust-free panels were going for $200.
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For sure everything pulled off the car will be up for sale. The sunroof works perfectly.

Not that I'm a rules nerd, but what you did isn't legal either.

To the OP, per the rules you're supposed to use a sheet of metal the same gauge as the surrounding roof. The cleanest ways I have seen is people make a cardboard template of the hole and trace that to a piece of sheet metal and then trace another that follows the original but enlarged by say 3/4" to an 1" all the way around. They cut that, you could use tin snips, and the extra is that you have is cut into tabs so to speak and bent at a 90" angle. So, you now hae a piece of metal that will just fit right in and then just bend those tabs back and use them as places to rivet/sheet metal screw to something secure around it.

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=530379&page=2

see the post about half way down by keithv to see what I'm talking about.

s
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Perfect, thank you, this is exaclty what I was thinking if I removed the panel altogether.

Do you think 2 rails in the 1/3rd points running front to back should be installed? Say 1/2"x1/2" to give the roof some strength? Or do you think the panel is good enough?
 
Do you think 2 rails in the 1/3rd points running front to back should be installed? Say 1/2"x1/2" to give the roof some strength? Or do you think the panel is good enough?
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I haven't seen the need for it. Don't forget you have the halo from the cage protecting you and the roof will hold up just fine, especially with that panel in. Though if you have the time and the means it certainly can't hurt. Just make sure it doesn't interfere with your noggen.

s
 
Instead of bending the sheet metal "into the sunroof hole" you can just lay the sheetmetal on top of the roof, drill holes (I did mine about 1" apart) and rivet the new skin into place. Start from the middle, goto the other side, then begin working your way to the sides of each car alternating sides. Having a helper pull the metal tight is useful. (Also put a bead of silicone around the opening before laying the cut metal on top.) If you take your time, it will come out nice.

An pretty cool place to get the sheet is www.onlinemetals.com

(There was a discussion about sunroof plugs a while back that discusses some of the methods and goes into a bit further detail.)
 
Instead of bending the sheet metal "into the sunroof hole" you can just lay the sheetmetal on top of the roof, drill holes (I did mine about 1" apart) and rivet the new skin into place. Start from the middle, goto the other side, then begin working your way to the sides of each car alternating sides. Having a helper pull the metal tight is useful. (Also put a bead of silicone around the opening before laying the cut metal on top.) If you take your time, it will come out nice.

An pretty cool place to get the sheet is www.onlinemetals.com

(There was a discussion about sunroof plugs a while back that discusses some of the methods and goes into a bit further detail.)
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And this simple instalation method is described nicely in a new book by some guy named Dave Gran.
 
Not that I'm a rules nerd, but what you did isn't legal either.

To the OP, per the rules you're supposed to use a sheet of metal the same gauge as the surrounding roof.


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Sorry, I did say my old car. When it was done, the rule allowing us to remove the sunroof was new, and we still had to run the passenger seat. Since I no longer have a sunroof car, I didn't know the rule had changed. My bad.
 
FINALLY, the car is in the garage. :026:

Been waiting for this day for a long time. Remodel of the basement and rediculaous hours at the office have delayed me months!

Are there any speed shops I can goto ( I am near Poughkeepsie, NY) that I can start to touch and feel parts, seats, harness, etc?

I sat in Doug Case's car. That seat, Kirky, felt great. Anyone know what size that is?

I am hoping to have the interior cleaned out in a week or so. :happy204:
 
I ran over to Behrents yesterday. Nice group of guys. Jeff Behrent spent some time to show me around the equipement. Of course they mentioned I should talk to Tom about setting up the car.......

I came home with a Kirky Intermidiate Road Race Seat with a cover, Impact suit and gloves.

I made contact with Chris Howard, I am on his schedule. He is about 5 weeks from being ready for me. :eclipsee_steering:
 
FYI, I have a Del Sol Drivers seat slider assembly modified for bolt up to any flat bottom seat (Kirky seat), in the garage. It bolts to the stock mounting points. $20 plus postage and its yours. Its a pro fabricated piece, probably costing me $100. Unfortunately I put it in my Sol and found I was sitting to tall so now we are bolted straight to floor.

I believe the Sol and the CRX seat mounts are the same, It's floor mounting hole areapprox 14.5" front to back and side to side between mounting points.

Word of caution though, any height above 5 - 10 and you start having helmet hitting roll bar issues. You can email me [email protected]
 
Thanks Bob. I am taller than 5'-10" so I think that I should mount right to the floor.



Spent a snow day today pulling out the interior.

Is there an easy way to pull off the sound insulation? heat?
 
Is there an easy way to pull off the sound insulation? heat?
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Depending on where you are and how cold it is right now, a flat-head screwdriver and few taps of a hammer might do the job. If not, I've made very quick work of it on a few CRX's with a block of dry ice and the above implements. Just lay it out for 30 sec's or so and tap. The stuff wil shatter before your eyes.
 
I rolled my car outside one night when it was below freezing. Then took to it with a dead blow the next morning. 98% of it was out in about 5 mins.
 
Dry ice works wonders on the black stuff on the inside. I found heat will degrade it but it will burn and is rather smokey when it does! If you can liguid nitrogen will work very well, the car should be on a rotissere(sp) at least on it's side. I've not look for it locally but understand it's fairly cheap the most expensive part is the deposit for the dewar.

Martyn
 
Whatever you do, don't use heat! You will just end up with a gooey mess. As Gregg and Ian said, just let it sit out during a cold night and then whack it with a hammer - stuff pops right off. You might have little tiny pieces left, but they can be chiseled up.
 
If you leave it outside to freeze, make sure you have a good plan for any water that may be in the engine if it's still in the car. Don't want to crack a block.
 
Thanks guys. I will down the heat down in the garage tonight to see if I can chip it off. If not, I will leave it outside for a bit....it was 11 degrees here this morning.

Here are some photos.
 
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