Almost ready

eMKay

New member
Installed the seat, new net (thanks Joeg!), redid the gauges, made many improvements to the wiring, sort of fixed the exhaust (still might get a new one fabbed), almost ready to go but I still have a lot of things to fix but they are mostly small things to improve reliability. More wiring work, new vacuum lines, fix the brake lines that are zip-tied to the cage, stuff like that. Anyone see anything in the pics that I missed?

gti11.jpg


gti12.jpg


Seat installed and gauges before making new dash panels
gti17.jpg


I put the oil temp and pressure where I can see them through the wheel, and the water and volt up where they were before, but now they are not facing away. I would like to rotate all the gauges so ideal is straight up, but I don't know where they are supposed to be with this car yet, what should they be? I have an oil cooler and oversized filter if that helps. where should the pressure be? And water temp? Voltage is 14 or so, it looks like I can just turn that one now.
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Ready for enduros :)
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Window net and belts would be good.

As far as water temp. between 190 and 220 is normal

Just make sure that both oil and water temp are at the same ends. I mean, if you have your oil way too cool, you don't want the water to be way hot, and visa versa.

You might also want to get some tow hooks or eyes too.
 
Thanks for the info.

Window net is installed, belts will be ordered soon, car has 4 tow eyes, one at each corner, I painted the rear red, will do the front soon and add arrows on the bumpers.
 
Reliability and safety, everything else is a distant second!! Looks good though!

Make sure your tow hooks are legel according to the GCR, not just the factory hooks.

Oh, having fun is second behind reliability and safety!! Have at it!!

I assume you'll be at LRP and NHIS for racing? (I just got rid of my ITB GTi this weekend, sad to see it go!!) It's a good group of ITBers in the Northeast. If you need help with ANYTHING, let me know.

Are you going to the NHIS school?
 
I would probably swap the oil temp and water temp locations as the water temp responds faster to a problem and should be part of your guage scan. On shorter tracks you dont have much time to look at them and it is easier to see water temp rise fast...if it does you can scan the other guages. If the oil temp is real high and you look to the water guage it will probably be of teh chart :119: just my .02
 
Looks like you need a Farfromaudi sticker!!!

Also check the tow hooks, the factory ones are not legal (errrr) so you will need to make something up. On the Audi I took some cable and wraped it around the bumper posts... connected the ends of the cable with cable ties, and then tucked the cable under the bumper and duct taped it up so it isn't visible unless you need it (hopefully you never will). I would still use your factory hooks for tiedowns on a trailer.

Anyway excited to run with you this year, come hang out and let us know if you need any help. We have a great group of people who help us and we don't mind sharing!!!

Raymond
 
Why aren't the factory VW tow hooks legal? Was there some official ruling on this somewhere?
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Factory tow hooks on the VWs are not big enough, so they do not comply with the rules. I used cable last year, but they pulled right out. I switched to the locking rings from the hardware store. I tape them up to the bumper so they don't clatter around underneath.
 
I need to do the same. But I was considering welding a 2" ID ring to the stock front and rear locations in a way they wont prodtrude from the bumper. Its on the to-do list for February.
 
Yo Bob Paul here just wanted to shout at ya. See you at pagoda hill . Paul
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Hey Paul,

It's so nice to see you still have the Golf. I hope to be out before Pagoda this year but we'll see.

-Bob
 
Thanks for all the input everyone.

So the factory tow hooks are not legal, but a $10 climbing runner attached to them is? :blink:

Why? Are the factory ones too small? Because they sure are strong enough.
 
I would be surprised if they where larger then 1"ID. and I think I found something that will work well, be easy to access in a sand trap and make tech as well as EV happy.
 
I would be surprised if they where larger then 1"ID. and I think I found something that will work well, be easy to access in a sand trap and make tech as well as EV happy.
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And that is.....
 
I found some stuff at the hardware store while picking up some stuff for mounting my balast. I will post the picture this weekend since its ont he Saturday fabrication list. But its 2" solid rings I got for a buck a piece that I am going to weld up with some steel scrap I have here and use the same bolt locations that secure the front rebar with intigrated toe hooks for the front. The rear I am going to fab into using the rear bumper or weld it to the driver rear toe hook.

I will gladly post all the pictures of the progress and final product for everyone.
 
So the factory tow hooks are not legal, but a $10 climbing runner attached to them is? :blink:

Why? Are the factory ones too small? Because they sure are strong enough.
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The spec is for a 2" ID aperture - that way EV can quickly hook on to your vehicle with their tow vehicle without having to resort to various J-hooks that fit the factory opening (or in some cases, openings in the undercarriage). Its all about speed in collecting your car in an emergency. Every tow truck worth its salt has "the right stuff" on board but with a herd of nut jobs whizzing by your disabled car on a racetrack, that EV worker is more concerned about moving you NOW rather than searching for the proper hook.

In other words a 2" ID aperture is sufficient for most any tow vehicle hook from a tug-em strap to a winch hook to collect your car ASAP.

Not trying to piss in your Wheaties but having friends who run a towing service AND EV, I hear this drivel constantly - it must have sunk into the dark recesses of the cavity that I call a brain. ;)
 
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