Back to work on the Pinto
- Thread starter lobster
- Start date
Lobster,
Yes, there are a few places to lose it, but I'm afraid that you must be a very serious racer to do it all (a fellow racer friend in the same class saw my car, and said "you guys are all too serious about this!"). Here are my initial thoughts from years of experience:
1) Spun steel 13X6 rims are available...look at the circle track ads for them. They are very reasonable.
2) If you are not using it (I'm not sure what year you have), but the 6 3/4 ring gear is lighter than the 8 inch. Less unsprung weight, and lighter rotating masses.
3) Convert to a VW radiator, and lose about 10 lb. when full of water. The weight reduction is forward of the front wheels by a bunch, and the radiator can be place very low.
4) There was an aluminum alternator bracket (L shaped-upside down) that bolted to the block. Others are cast Iron.
5) Back date to the early years (71-73) for the bumper support and outer bumper, front and rear. They are listed on the same line (legal) as the '74.
5) Try to find stiffer rear springs with less leaves. There are single leaf springs from Landrum.
6) Go thru the chassis and remove any bracket, bolt, nut, not actually in use for racing. You will also find bolts that are too long for the application...replace.
7) Seat mount might be too heavy...I've seen plate steel used where brackets would have been strong enought.
8) Carpets/insulation/Undercoating (maybe not in your area) are all heavy, and legal to remove.
9) Aluminum water pump pulley...larger diameter, too.
Suffice to say, that if you concentrate your efforts you will find a LOT of weight that can be removed. Remove ANYTHING that does not have a use for racing. With the exception of the bolt replacement and pulley, at very little cost to the project. The wheels have an added bonus of reduced rotational weight.
Good luck.
Good racing.
Bill
Yes, there are a few places to lose it, but I'm afraid that you must be a very serious racer to do it all (a fellow racer friend in the same class saw my car, and said "you guys are all too serious about this!"). Here are my initial thoughts from years of experience:
1) Spun steel 13X6 rims are available...look at the circle track ads for them. They are very reasonable.
2) If you are not using it (I'm not sure what year you have), but the 6 3/4 ring gear is lighter than the 8 inch. Less unsprung weight, and lighter rotating masses.
3) Convert to a VW radiator, and lose about 10 lb. when full of water. The weight reduction is forward of the front wheels by a bunch, and the radiator can be place very low.
4) There was an aluminum alternator bracket (L shaped-upside down) that bolted to the block. Others are cast Iron.
5) Back date to the early years (71-73) for the bumper support and outer bumper, front and rear. They are listed on the same line (legal) as the '74.
5) Try to find stiffer rear springs with less leaves. There are single leaf springs from Landrum.
6) Go thru the chassis and remove any bracket, bolt, nut, not actually in use for racing. You will also find bolts that are too long for the application...replace.
7) Seat mount might be too heavy...I've seen plate steel used where brackets would have been strong enought.
8) Carpets/insulation/Undercoating (maybe not in your area) are all heavy, and legal to remove.
9) Aluminum water pump pulley...larger diameter, too.
Suffice to say, that if you concentrate your efforts you will find a LOT of weight that can be removed. Remove ANYTHING that does not have a use for racing. With the exception of the bolt replacement and pulley, at very little cost to the project. The wheels have an added bonus of reduced rotational weight.
Good luck.
Good racing.
Bill
D
Dick Elliott
Guest
HEY BILL!
Have you got any of those aluminum alternator brackets left over from the good ole days? I could use a couple if you do. Thanks, Dick Elliott
Have you got any of those aluminum alternator brackets left over from the good ole days? I could use a couple if you do. Thanks, Dick Elliott
Dick,
No. We "lost" all of the Ford Stuff when the car was sold. I'll look around.
I forgot to mention the transmission: Use the Cologne gear box, as it was the lightest.
I forgot to mention the driver, of course.
It would be the season's work, but you can have a VERY light (read...spec weight) car if you are VERY serious.
Bill
No. We "lost" all of the Ford Stuff when the car was sold. I'll look around.
I forgot to mention the transmission: Use the Cologne gear box, as it was the lightest.
I forgot to mention the driver, of course.
It would be the season's work, but you can have a VERY light (read...spec weight) car if you are VERY serious.
Bill
D
Dick Elliott
Guest
KEEP UP???? HELL pass them! You can out brake both any day of the week. Thats one realy great thing about Pintos. Things that I have found over the years are, no big tube headers, no low rear gears, lots of timeing on a real short track, locked out distributor, windage tray, vertical entry air cleaners(a must), big radiator, corrected bump steering, small bumpers, Lite weight clutch and pressure plate, big balls, etc, etc. Ever little bit helps.
DICK
DICK
D
Dick Elliott
Guest
All the aluminum master cylinders I have found are for power brakes and also have the brake line outlets on the side toward the engine. Water pumps are on E-Bay every day but are they legal? On E-Bay look at (2.3L ford)for more goodies like stamped sheet metal water necks. I have a Esslinger aluminum water pump pulley, and it weighs more than a stock pulley. It also will not clear a stock lower crank pulley. DICK
D
Dick Elliott
Guest
Bill!
When you said to back date to early bumpers because all Pintos are on the same line in the rule book, arn't the 2.0L Pintos on a different line from the 2.3L Pintos? If so how could you use early bumpers on a Pinto with a 2.3L? Example
71/72 bumpers on a 76 Pinto.)Help me out Bill. Thanks, DICK
When you said to back date to early bumpers because all Pintos are on the same line in the rule book, arn't the 2.0L Pintos on a different line from the 2.3L Pintos? If so how could you use early bumpers on a Pinto with a 2.3L? Example
Glenn,
Let me see if I can actually get thru this after working all night.
The ITCS lists YEARS, and therefore the chassis actually can be backdated when on the same line. The list as I remember is from "71-'74, the '74 also had the 2.0 as the base engine. It also has the largest brakes available on the Pinto. If one were to use the '74, then the components (bumper and supports) should be able to be backdated.
I believe if the proper chassis (sedan version) was used with the smaller engine (lowest weight) and judicious use of components the weight will be UNDER minimum.
I know of one early Pinto in the NE that was set up this way, and was very competitive (actually stock!!!) in ITB.
Hope this helps.
Good racing.
Bill
Let me see if I can actually get thru this after working all night.
The ITCS lists YEARS, and therefore the chassis actually can be backdated when on the same line. The list as I remember is from "71-'74, the '74 also had the 2.0 as the base engine. It also has the largest brakes available on the Pinto. If one were to use the '74, then the components (bumper and supports) should be able to be backdated.
I believe if the proper chassis (sedan version) was used with the smaller engine (lowest weight) and judicious use of components the weight will be UNDER minimum.
I know of one early Pinto in the NE that was set up this way, and was very competitive (actually stock!!!) in ITB.
Hope this helps.
Good racing.
Bill
D
Dick Elliott
Guest
Bill!
What I'm trying to do is put 71/72 bumpers on a 76 with a 2.3L. I know I can use 77/78 aluminum bumpers but I would rather us 71/72 bumpers. Legal????, DICK
What I'm trying to do is put 71/72 bumpers on a 76 with a 2.3L. I know I can use 77/78 aluminum bumpers but I would rather us 71/72 bumpers. Legal????, DICK