Ballast Location and types
- Thread starter AE86ITA
- Start date
Be careful...I've had Tech ask me to remove my spare a few times, just to check for water and/or concrete. It didn't bounce when he tried (no pressure) but there was air inside...
Queue IT nerd discussions regarding "air" being freely replaced with something else...like nitrogen. Or water. Or concrete. Review "unintended function" reg first, please...
- GAThe spare? If that's the way it came from the factory, then it's compliant to the regs even if it's just an 1/8" bolt. Not smart, but compliant because technically it's not "ballast", it's the spare that's allowed to remain.
When I chose to leave the spare in my ITA car I added a 1/2" bolt through one of the wheel holes to tie it through the floor. After arguing with a scrutineer regarding leaving the spare in (he eventually concurred that it's allowed) he started to get me for non-compliant ballast (the bolt weighs something). I pointed out to him that one, hardware is free, so I "can" replace the factory tie-down bolt with something sturdier and two, did he really want to force me to leave a ~25# mini-spare back there when secured with only a cheap-grade 1/8" bolt? He gave in. - GA
jumbojimbo
New member
It could be bolted, but I see a ratchet strap. If the ratchet strap is needed then it shouldn't be passing tech.
gran racing
Super Moderator
In my previous B car, I put a bulkhead that closed off the exposed trunk. Spoke with Topeka's primary tech guy before doing it and he agreed it met the rules. It was a nice way to add some weight in the back of the car - I mean add to the safety.
Gary L
New member
As some have guessed, the tire was full of something besides air. Sand, to be precise, 50 lbs of it. The spare (full of nothing but air) weighed 37 lbs.
The spare was bolted to the car using one of the lug holes and an added bolt & nut. The stock setup was a ratchet strap, although it may have been black as opposed to red.
Yes... this was my car, as purchased. Also FWIW, I just so happened to agree with Greg A (and still do), so I removed the sand based on the "prohibited function" clause.
The spare was bolted to the car using one of the lug holes and an added bolt & nut. The stock setup was a ratchet strap, although it may have been black as opposed to red.
Yes... this was my car, as purchased. Also FWIW, I just so happened to agree with Greg A (and still do), so I removed the sand based on the "prohibited function" clause.
Over on the brown board someone would have said 'dead hookers' in the trunk.
Since ballast is supposed to be in the passenger's area, best way I have found to secure it is to utilize the seat mounts. The Miata has a pair of 1/2" plates each about 40#, one bolts to the seat mounts, the other bolts to the first plate w/ tapped holes (because its easier to undo 4 more bolts than lift all 80 pounds at once). Way back I needed 50# in my nissan, so I used a pc of 4x4x1/2 square tubing, welded end plates on and threaded port and pored in lead shot to the desired weight. Both of these methods were the easy button since all the parts were free to me from work and other home projects.
What kind of car are you brainstorming for?
Since ballast is supposed to be in the passenger's area, best way I have found to secure it is to utilize the seat mounts. The Miata has a pair of 1/2" plates each about 40#, one bolts to the seat mounts, the other bolts to the first plate w/ tapped holes (because its easier to undo 4 more bolts than lift all 80 pounds at once). Way back I needed 50# in my nissan, so I used a pc of 4x4x1/2 square tubing, welded end plates on and threaded port and pored in lead shot to the desired weight. Both of these methods were the easy button since all the parts were free to me from work and other home projects.
What kind of car are you brainstorming for?
Matt93SE
New member
That's the common way to do it. cheap and works. just make sure whatever you bolt it to the floor with (and the floor itself) is stout enough to take an impact. there are some specific regulations on that in the GCR now. brain is too tired to quote chapter and verse, but it's in there. possibly in IT rules, possibly the general safety section- I don't remember now.
But yeah, lots of guys I know have a pile of plates in the pass side floor.
Steel flywheels work.
We use 2x3 steel filled with melted wheel weights. Local circle track guy makes 'em, they slide into the frame rails of their cars. Mount with 2 bolts each (1/2 inch). If you use really thick back up washers, you get even more ballast, even lower. These "tubes" weigh 35 lbs each.
We use 2x3 steel filled with melted wheel weights. Local circle track guy makes 'em, they slide into the frame rails of their cars. Mount with 2 bolts each (1/2 inch). If you use really thick back up washers, you get even more ballast, even lower. These "tubes" weigh 35 lbs each.
Google "mayco industrial noise control with lead" and then follow their recommendations for sound control?
Xian had a very well built ITA 4door civic and had interesting rear bar mounts for his speedway bar in the back. Not absurd in size but quite stout.
This is where it gets iffy. Gran's example of the bulkhead is a good one. Aluminum foil may meet the letter of the rule (don't recall a min/max thickness for it) and surely 2" thick we would agree is for other than intended purposes.
But what thickness in between is the cross over from too little to too much? Is it defined in the GCR? My personal opinion is the max thicknesses would be something like 2x the metal I am welding to.
But that is because if I get too much difference then I burn holes in the thinner material.
Xian had a very well built ITA 4door civic and had interesting rear bar mounts for his speedway bar in the back. Not absurd in size but quite stout.
This is where it gets iffy. Gran's example of the bulkhead is a good one. Aluminum foil may meet the letter of the rule (don't recall a min/max thickness for it) and surely 2" thick we would agree is for other than intended purposes.
But what thickness in between is the cross over from too little to too much? Is it defined in the GCR? My personal opinion is the max thicknesses would be something like 2x the metal I am welding to.
But that is because if I get too much difference then I burn holes in the thinner material.
gran racing
Super Moderator
Mine was what I considered to be a reasonsable thickness but that's subjective as there is no max / min thickness (at least when I had the car). Was no more than 1/4" thick (think less). Material to be used? Again, subjective, right? Does one need to use aluminum? Does using another material really go against the GCR of having a bulkhead? I had bolted mine in and it could have been easily be removed and inspected if it came down to it.
I also had the spare (donut) and the associated twist jack in the trunk. I've seen people have a full size spare when it only came with the sonut.
Add back little things that were removed. Mine had rear seat belts - not much but still a few pounds here and there. Rear trim pannels. All adds up.
I also had the spare (donut) and the associated twist jack in the trunk. I've seen people have a full size spare when it only came with the sonut.
Add back little things that were removed. Mine had rear seat belts - not much but still a few pounds here and there. Rear trim pannels. All adds up.
Many moons ago, there was a case that passed through the Court of Appeals. A Spec Miata driver, trying to increase ballast in an advantageous (?) area, used 2" thick steel for the plate holding his kill switch. The Court agree with Scrutineering that the 2" thick steel was excessive and represented an unintended function.
The competitor's appeal was denied.
Matt93SE
New member
There's always the trick of using 1.5" solid steel bar on some of the non-essential cage tubes. that's some heavy crap! since it's non-essential parts of the cage, it doesn't have to meet the same diameter and wall thickness specs as the rest of the cage. (then again, the GCR lists minimum all thickness. this is just tubing with a wall thickness of 1/2 the tube diameter! )
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