Best Race engine motor oil

B

BruceG

New member
Looking for your thoughts on the above. Mobil One, Redline, Royal purple? Redline has a single weight that acts like a multi.

Also, what weight is best for summer racing in New England.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Bruce
 
I have always been an amsoil fan.. but it is a bit expensive. Most ofthe time we use mobil 1.

Ron, never heard of that oil.. it is hard to put faith into somethign new when so much is on the line. I assume it is what you use in the 2.3L?
 
The Valvoline VR Racing has some properties that make it attractive. It has the moly_____ lubircants amoung others that many don't have these days. I could be wrong, but I beleive it has kept the additives that most of the oils have dropped as of late. If you look around there are posts about newer oils that don't do such a good job of lubricating in return for fewer emissions.

Oil weight decisions has a lot to do w/ what the bearing tolerances are and what oil temps the engine sees.
 
First and most important question- Flat tappet cam, or roller followers? If its a nice modern piece, use nice modern oil, just like what the owners manual specifies. Its tough to go wrong with a synthetic that meets ACEA (European) ratings. (Read: Mobil 1) Then watch oil temps. You will do more damage running too hot, or starving the pump in high G situations than you ever will by running good synthetic 5W-30 in a modern IT engine. If its a flat tappet dinosaur the game changes.

But thats just my opinion, I could be wrong.
 
Best motor oil

Thanks Guys! still looking for thoughts on best weight to run in average NE summer temps(65-90deg f).

Also, the Brad Penn oil that Ron mentioned would seem to be grat for older cars(HP,etc) as well as formula VEE's since it still has the zinc in it. I thingk Penzoil has a synthetic w/ the zinc still in it,too.

Any thoughts?

Bruce
 
We run Redline 10-30 in the C cars in New England. Pressures stay good, 60-70 hot at race RPM, 20-30 hot at idle.
 
We did a lot of research on oils. From break in to running. Most of the off the shelf pep boys oils are missing some of the most important things a race motor needs. Trace elements like phosphorus, and zink are being removed from mobil 1 and others. Gibbs racing produces some very nice blends, royal and others are good also. The reason we run the Brad Penn is that it is a company taylored to racing. You can call them up and they will talk to you about what they are doing. Also talk to cam grinders and ring manufactures about what they would like to see in your oil. Don't just read online, make some calls and ask a few simple questions. You don't want to waste their time but many different companies were very forcomming in "oil" beleifs.

One last thing the Penn oil is very cost efective. I mean the same cost of mobil 1. And one more thing, it is US crude, not middle eastern. Not that matters, but you can buy something made in America.
 
I agree on the Brad Penn. When run it in an FP 914 that sees 290-300* oil temps. It is what I will be running in my ITB 914. It is great for aircooled cars and solid tappets.

Blake Meredith
 
I haven't done any research on this but i have heard that a straight weight oil of 40W or higher the additives are different. That is they are similar to the additives that were in oils of just a few years ago. I guess it's because no OEM specifies anything but oil like 0W-30, or 5W-30, or 10W-30. So if you use a 40W oil it's for racing or old engines.
 
Ron said:
We did a lot of research on oils. From break in to running. Most of the off the shelf pep boys oils are missing some of the most important things a race motor needs. Trace elements like phosphorus, and zink are being removed from mobil 1 and others. Gibbs racing produces some very nice blends, royal and others are good also. The reason we run the Brad Penn is that it is a company taylored to racing. You can call them up and they will talk to you about what they are doing. Also talk to cam grinders and ring manufactures about what they would like to see in your oil. Don't just read online, make some calls and ask a few simple questions. You don't want to waste their time but many different companies were very forcomming in "oil" beleifs.

One last thing the Penn oil is very cost efective. I mean the same cost of mobil 1. And one more thing, it is US crude, not middle eastern. Not that matters, but you can buy something made in America.
Click to expand...

Ron,
I went to the Brad Penn website and they don't have a webstore there. Do you just call them and order oil from them directly, or does it have to be purchased through their distributor network? I appreciate your info on the product. We run old Datsuns, and the Brad Penn seems like it would be a good fit for our motors.

Chris

chris
 
Old diesel oils work too. However, it has to be old as those too are no removing the good additives to save the cats on the newer diesels.

I have Brad Penn too.

Pennsylvania crude base stock is the best for racing.
 
Hi Chris

After Ron suggested Brad Penn, I called them. They told me that they had some one local to New England(VT) and that they would have him contact me. Just the other day but I will post it here once I know. The company emailed me back immediately so they were very responsive.

Thank's again guys for all this great info!!

ps. still haven't heard any thoughts on the best weight for average New England summer racing(65-90 deg). ANy thoughts?

Bruce
 
distributor network is how they operate. The one in Atlanta is, is, hell I need to look it up.
 
We run Redline 15w40 Racing oil in the ITC CRXs at the suggestion of the engine builder. The Redline 15w40 also is labelled 40wt on the bottle.

Seems to keep pressure pretty consistently and works well in WI summers which should be similar to NE summers.
 
Royal Purple

John Singer did a test a few years back, & published the results in Circle Track magazine. Royal Purple used less power to lubricate (oil pump & passage drag). Has all the additives for EP as well.
 
My applications are a little different, a slightly modified Miata autocrosser and a Honda sportbike motored Lotus 7. I don't see as much heat soak, but see more runs up the rev range with a very light drivetrain and no damping.

I've used different Amsoil oils for three years and have been VERY happy with them. Last year I switched to Torco and will stick with them for the next year in a Prepared class Miata.
 
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