Best year for 2nd Gen

B

backformore

New member
I have been led to believe that the 1989 is the best year car to start with when building an ITS car. I realize that the drive train has some benefits, but does the tub? I have an '86 with '89 running gear. Is there any advantage to switching to an '89 tub? If so, is it only the '89 or any thing '89 and newer?

Thanks for the insight.

Rory

PS Is a Turbo fitted with non-turbo running gear legal? (I may be able to figure this out from the GCR, but I'm curious as to the various opinions.)
 
86, 87 without sunroof, manual window cars are the lightest. Even when you gut a sunroof car it still weighs a little more. The later dash is suposed to weigh more but never checked my self. The later motor and running gear in an early car is the best of both worlds.
 
Fully agreed, my research indicates that 89-91 cars are over 100lbs heavier than 86-88s... However, considering how difficult it is to get a race prepped ITS RX-7 to maintain 2680 (again, from talking to other ITS RX-7 drivers), I honestly don't think it matters. Now, if you're going to move to EProd, then definitely go with 86-88

PaulC
 
I've got an '86 with a bolt in cage that I want to replace with a custom welded cage. If there was an advantage to the later tubs, I thought it would be just as easy to put a cage in a new tub and swap running gear. If the '86 (w.sunroof) is not a disadvantage, I'll probably save the cost and effort of a new tub and put the cage in my '86.

Thanks for the input. Any other opinions?

Anyone disagree that you can not convert a Turbo to non-turbo?

Rory
 
As far as weight goes, my 86 GXL tub w/sunroof weighs in at 2688 with me fully dressed (220lbs) and 50lbs of ballast. The car's legal as far as what's been removed, so hitting weight shouldn't be a problem. The car has 17lb wheels and Kumhos on it right now too. So if I went to a light wheel and Hoosiers I might be in trouble.

Chris
 
WRT the turbo/non-turbo swap, it would not be legal by the book. The VIN is expected to match the car listed on the spec line of the GCR.

IF (notice that is a big if) the chassis are identical AND IF the VIN does not include a unique designation to indicate its turboness, then you MIGHT have defensible position - albeit not a scrupulously legal one. The general rule of thumb is that you can up- and backdate only among cars (year, trim level) listed with yours.

The VIN situation applies (a little differently) to prevent people from building an ITA GTI 16v from a plain old Golf shell.

Kirk
 
I don't have any plans to convert a turbo, just curious as to the response. I agree, it is not legal.

Is it in bad taste to post a for sale here? I have a 10th anniversary with HKS & Racing Beat go fast parts that I need to sell. Gotta pay for racing somehow. Any one interested email [email protected]

Rory
 
My sense from the posts here is that people actually do visit the classified page at improvedtouring.com - you should probably start there.

Kirk
 
While I'd give some serious thought to buying a 10AE, I just have too many cars right now. What I'd do if I were you is head over here: www.rx7club.com, goto the forums, and post it for sale there.

PaulC


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as a whole, the best years are 89-91. strongest motor, better ecu, intake manifold, etc.

ours are both 91 non sunroof cars.

the 89-91 are harder to find since less were made though.

with regards to weight i have to run with the spare tire to meet minimum weight. at the end of a race, the car weighs 2685-2690 with out any illegal gutting.

granted i only weigh 130lbs but making minimum weight with the older versions shouldn't be a problem.
 
??? the older cars are 100 lbs lighter stock than the 89-91 cars, so I don't see how it's going to be any easier.

PaulC
 
Thanks for all the good suggestions!

As for minimum weight, I have the advantage(?) of weighing about 200 pounds. At least I won't have to go on a crash diet trying to get the car to minimum weight.

The car currently uses '89 motor, trans, wiring harness, injectors, etc. so I think I can just put a custom cage in the existing tub ('86) and be OK. Actually, the custom cage is an attempt to get maximum headroom and SAFETY. I'm sure the bolt in is "safe enough" but its my a** that finds out if it's not!

I'll put the 10th Anniversary for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested.

Rory
 
Sounds like you've got a handle on it, and your set up is correct...keep going . PS, a well built cage "IS" the key to success (a) foremost for safty, and (B) if you really do a great cage your car will love it. Mine took me two months, and I would of spent two more if it would of helped any more !Keep up the good work, and if you need ideas this "site" will absolutly work, I'm very impressed w/all the help every one around here has provided. Rick
 
Rick,

I am contemplating building my own cage. I believe I'm a semi-intelligent person (don't we all), engineering degree etc., but with no welding experience (although my father-in-law can weld, but I don't know about doing tubes). Am I a damn fool for considering it? Would I be better off paying someone to do it for me? I like the idea of learning to weld, but I want to know if I'm biting off more than I can chew.

Rory
 
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