Brake ducting

E

E30 Ray

New member
Anyone have suggestons on enhancing the stock brake ducting on an 89 325is? Turner and BMP both sell duct kits. Does anyone have experience in installing these. To get them on, do I need to pull the wheel bearings?

Has anyone tried a "roll your own" solution by modifying the stock bcking plates.
 
Ray,
I would hold off on spending the big $$$ for BMP ducts. I ran 10 races last year and I never had a problem with the brakes over-heating. I always had a solid firm pedal, and no brake fade. My brakes are not ducted at all, all I did was remove the backing plates. I changed fluid and installed new rotors mid-season and that was all I did besides pads as needed. PS.. if you haven't already done so, remove all of your ABS hardware. You will also need a Tilton adjustable proportioning valve in your rear brakes. Just re-plumb the rear brakes through the firewall, down the center of the car and use a T fitting in the backseat area to send it through the floor right above the stock brake lines on the rear control arms. This will allow you to mount the valve right beside the gear shift. If you like, I can take some picures of my setup and email them to you.
 
bimmerworld also has a good ducting kit. my car has no ducting (or backing plates) and previous owner reporting never having a need for more cooling. my one weekend of use confirms that.
 
E30 Ray. have purchased brake duct kit from bimmerworld..you do not have to remove the hubs to install these backing plates. i used the stock brake ducts, blocking off the openings in the fender wells, and running the 3" hose from the side of the stock duct through the engine bay and out the bay just in front of the control arm. have been on the car for two years without problems. am on my second year on stock rotors, although last year was all solo 1 and track days. i did have problems with the stock setup at bmwcca driver's schools warping the rotors so i went to this setup. hope this helps,

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Chuck Baader
SEDIV ITS #36
E30 BMW
 
If you do need more cooling, the cheaper solition is to run the 3" hose from the front bumper to the strut housing, directing the end at the center of the rotor (with stock splash shield removed). This has about 50% effectiveness of a full kit which is enough for some cars.

James
 
If you do need more cooling, the cheaper solition is to run the 3" hose from the front bumper to the strut housing, directing the end at the center of the rotor (with stock splash shield removed). This has about 50% effectiveness of a full kit which is enough for some cars.

James
 
If you do need more cooling, the cheaper solition is to run the 3" hose from the front bumper to the strut housing, directing the end at the center of the rotor (with stock splash shield removed). This has about 50% effectiveness of a full kit which is enough for some cars.

James
 
2 Cents coming up. When I ran my E-30 I did the basic "Aim the 3" hose at the center of the hub deal" The big question I have is, why use a brake proportioning valve for the rear brakes? Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the valve just reduce brake pressure by restricting the fluid flow to the rear? If so the only way that would improve brake balance is if you have too much rear brakes to start with. I was always trying to get more rear brakes not less. Look foreward to hearing your responces.
 
We put it on the front - definitely helps in rain situations...

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James Clay
<A HREF="http://www.bimmerworld.com
" TARGET=_blank>http://www.bimmerworld.com
</A> Engineered BMW Performance
BMWCCA/SCCA Racecar Rental
Genuine OEM and Used BMW Parts
(540) 639-9648
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Without the proportioning valve on the rear, the rear wheels would lockup with very little pedal pressure. I removed all ABS equipment, and therefor had no factory proportioning valve. Front/rear bais may very between factory ABS and factory non-ABS cars.
 
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