Brake/Rotor Break In

L

loperdw

New member
I have a new set of rotors and a new set of brake pads. How should break them in. In the past I have always run new rotors with old pads to break in the new rotors, or old rotors with new pads to break in the new pads. In this case I have no old rotors and no old pads, everything is new. OEM Rotors, Carbotech pads. Any advice is much appreciated!
 
I would just follow the pad makers instructions for break in procedure. I've never thought about rotor brake in, but then my CRX isn't harsh on either rotor's or pads.

hoop
 
I'm religious about breaking in pads on old rotors because I was told that the rotors should already have some pad material on them before you break in new pads. My trouble is that I’ve got new and new so I thought it might be in my best interest to get the slick surface of the rotor roughed up a bit prior to running on the new pads. I've heard scratching up the surface of the rotor with steel wool is helpful, but thought I should throw it out to some experts.
 
No need to get really excited about the new rotor , new pad thing. At some time many have had new racecars. One of the biggest things about new rotors , like anything else that gets subjected to big temp changes , is to bring them up to temp slowly and let them cool the same way. I usually take 3 to 5 laps to bring them up to temp. Then go into the pad bed procedure . When you complete the pad bed procedure take 2 laps of minimal brake use to cool the rotors down before coming in and parking the car . I have seen some people at this time jack up the car and remove the wheels to allow the rotors to finish cooling. If I think I came in a little hotter than I like I will also rotate the wheels a bit to let the rotor area under the pads get some air .
 
Ive been racing Hondas for 15 years. I do the exact same brake pad/rotor break-in routine for many years without issue. I use cheap $20 rotors and throw them out after 4 or 5 race weekends. I heat cycle a new set of pads during practice for about 5 laps. I then take them off and put my old pads back on. These new pads then sit on the shelf to cure for a month before I reuse them. They always last much longer and perform much better. I do the same thing with the rotors as well. If you dont have time to do this, then heat cycle the pads, put them in your freezer over night and then put them back on the next day. Sounds crazy, but it works...

I usually heat-cycle 3 sets during a practice session.
 
The formation lap has always been good enough the break in rotors/pads for me. I always use new rotors with new pads.

Rotors are AutoZone
Pads are Carbotech. (I have used Hawk, Porterfield, and Cobalt in the past)
 
Here is a question on that same topic I can get rotors turned for free. Do you think that I should still just buy new Autozone or Napa rotors. The argument I had heard before about turning rotors was that it cost basically as much as just buying new ones so that is why you dont do it. Is there any other bad side effects that I could get from using these. Or should I just stop being a cheap ass and buy new rotors. Thanks
 
Are you warping rotors that you need to have them turned? If this is the case they will warp again and I recommend spending a little more on rotors with better metallurgy, or some better ductwork to get the temps down . I personally run only Honda or Brembo rotors on all 4 cars I take care of . I usually have a set of rotors last about a season before they start showing enough cracking to warrant replacement .
 
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