Cage for Pinto

Speed Raycer

Speed Raycer

New member
Hey everyone in Ford land!

I'm getting ready to start on a cage for a customers ITB Pinto. I've already got a pretty good idea of where to tie into for the hoop, downbars (in front of dash) and rear braces, but wanted to pick everyones brains to make sure my customer gets the best cage possible. Anyone have thoughts or pics to share on their cages?

How are the pinto's cross weights? Any helmet clearance issues or seat mounting tricks?

TIA


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Scott Rhea
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it

Izzy's Custom Cages
 
I have seen several but would not know why you wouldn't build it like any other cage--tight along the pillars and the roof.

Head room is more of a seat mounting and seat style selection issue rather than a cage issue if the cages are built "tight".

Have fun!
 
Scott,

I hope I don't start a big mess with this thread, I'm just trying to learn something again. I was looking at the pics on your website and I was looking at the tri-link setup for the RX-7. How is that legal for IT? If you want to email me off line about it, I'm [email protected]. I'm NOT and I DON'T want to start some huge contest here, I'm just looking for an education, so anybody else who wants to answer I'd welcome the information. Maybe I should start another thread.

Tom
 
Joeg... It'll be tight, that's for certain.

Since I don't drive a Pinto, I'm looking for any insights that Pinto drivers might have like whether the factory seat mounts need to be 86'd or if there needs to be a little bit of layback, or section of the frame that's stronger/weaker etc.

I don't have the car in the shop yet, but have taken a close look and got some measurements of one at a local wrecking yard.

Tom... it's a traction bar. I'll email you off line, but I'm sure there's several discussions about it on this site.
 
Tie the downtubes into the rockers if you can. Put the main hoop mounts as close to the front (leaf) spring mount boxes as you can. Tie the rear leaf mounts into the top of the main hoop at the halo bar tie ins. You probably can't cut holes in the dash to run the front downbars through like the modern cars, so just get them as close to the dash as you can. I'm 6' and when running backwards on banked oval, my head hit the halo bar when craning my neck to see around the corner. I wear a 34" inseam and my knees always hit the steering wheel in whatever I drive, so I used a smaller steering wheel and the seat needed to be lowered, as well as moved way back. Other than that, go for it and make sure we are kept updated.
 
I can offer a few thought that we used in both Pinto and Mustang III cars.

We put the front set of the allowable mounts facing forward, essentially horizontal to the front wheel wells (floorboard bulge). From its contact with the front hoop, the horizontal door bar began. In this way, any movement of the front wheel/floorboard would be resisted by the cage, and any intrusion would be minimized.

Also, the dash can be removed, trimmed and returned after the forward down tube is placed VERY far forward almost the the junction of the horizontal floor and the upward slope of the wheel well. The intention was to get as much of a larger "cage" around the driver as possible, extending as much forward, as the feet are when on the pedals.

At the rear, the diagonals went to the rear spring mounts for crush protection, and the main hoop was on the raised floor where the rear seat had been. Nascar style door bars were used with cross bracing.

Incidentally, Steering wheel removal devices for this car are available from Summit Racing for a VERY reasonable cost. It is a BOLT ON, in place of the steering wheel on the original splines, with mounts for either three bolt, or five bolt steering wheels. Solves the problem of entrance and exit. Unfortunately, it only fits earlier cars, not the late Mustang ('87 and up).

Write if you need more information.

whitehorseracing @aol.com

Good racing.

Bill
 
Hadn't read your response until today Bill! Sound's like I've got the pads in the same spots as you described for the same reasons!

The customer didn't want the cage through the dash, so that's a little different.

Thanks for the input!

If anyone wants to see some pics... take a look at my "blog" until I can get the page done on my website.

http://www.solo2.org/blogs/Speed%20Raycer/
 
MARK! Did you sell your Bobcat? Let me know. I just might know someone interested. DICK

Originally posted by MarkL:
Tie the downtubes into the rockers if you can. Put the main hoop mounts as close to the front (leaf) spring mount boxes as you can. Tie the rear leaf mounts into the top of the main hoop at the halo bar tie ins. You probably can't cut holes in the dash to run the front downbars through like the modern cars, so just get them as close to the dash as you can. I'm 6' and when running backwards on banked oval, my head hit the halo bar when craning my neck to see around the corner. I wear a 34" inseam and my knees always hit the steering wheel in whatever I drive, so I used a smaller steering wheel and the seat needed to be lowered, as well as moved way back. Other than that, go for it and make sure we are kept updated.
Click to expand...
 
Overkill is under-rated
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P1230007a.jpg


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Scott Rhea
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it

Izzy's Custom Cages

[This message has been edited by Speed Raycer (edited January 23, 2005).]
 
Dick, The little wildcat is still for sale. I would like to sell it. It is too depressing to look at it just sitting in my garage.
 
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