CLUTCH

M

MSPERBER

New member
Help, running an A1 GTI in ITB, and wiped out two clutches this weekend. Car is at legal weight, and runs well. The clutch that went after 7 events was a 16v pressure plate, with a 4 puck disc. The flywheel was resurfaced prior to install. It started to slip so we removed it and the disc was wiped out and one of the spring retainers had broken. Replaced with a like unit, brand new, Thanks Mr. Boles for keeping my weekend going and it started to slip 5 laps into the race. Is there an alignment issue I've missed or do I shift to hard and not easy enough on the downshift. Help.

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Something is not right. VW Clutches normally last at least 12-14 races. I run the 4 puck "spring" disk and it has at least 15 races on it. When you downshift, do you hit all the gears? ie when you go from 5th to 3rd, do you hit 4th? Try to avoid that, and don't just dump the clutch when downshifting. Be "gentle" in it. Heck, if your using your clutch to "brake" then your not using your MIDDLE pedal enough.

Try a disk with out the springs. If you still have failures, it won't be the clutch disk next time, it will be the tranny

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Tim Linerud
San Francisco Region SCCA
#95 LP GP Wabbit
http://linerud.myvnc.com/racing/index.html

[This message has been edited by racer_tim (edited June 09, 2003).]
 
It sounds like you are really hard on your clutch. In regards to the 2nd clutch, perhaps your pressure plate is a bit weak and needs replacing.

The last clutch I broke was in my very first car. I was dumping the clutch to do burnouts when it finally stopped working. When I took it all apart, springs were loose, pressure plate bent and I finally understood what the abuse was doing to the parts.

I have a couple of race cars which I have been racing for several years or more and they both have the same stock type clutch and pressure plates in them.

71 ITB Capri - clutch assembly is on it's 3rd motor combination. Stock LUK Clutch and Borg Warner pressure plate must have more than 60 races on it.

83 GTI Cup car - stock clutch assembly and I've been racing it for several years. Motor is still strong and hasn't been rebuilt yet. This clutch must have about 40 races on it.

I'm careful when I shift, I match engine rpms to rolling speed when downshifting and I when accelerating, I'm make sure my foot is fully out of the clutch before I floor the gas pedal.
 
I got 10 weekends out of a Sachs clutch, and it was still good when I changed it out for the unsprung 4-puck.

I'm inclined to agree w/ the folks that think there's something else that's wrong besides the clutch itself. Is it adjusted properly so that it's not partially disengaged w/o you touching the pedal? ITB GTI's just don't make that much power to cause a properly installed and adjusted clutch w/ a good PP and flywheel to slip after 5 laps. Was it dry when you took it out? I'm wondering if either your tranny seal or your rear main seal are leaking?

I also agree w/ Tim, you shouldn't be using the tranny to slow the car. Brakes are much cheaper than trannys and clutches, not to mention how much easier they are to change.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
SCCA 279608
 
Here is an update, I've been running this car for over 5 years so maybe I need to remove the gorrilla driving style I've developed with the car but further review of the parts removed appear to show that possible failures were due to newer style clutches and pressure plates(not german made) and my over aggressive style. I will be more gentlemanly with the car if it promises not to break anymore. Again thanks for the review of my aggrevation and the suggestions, and David Boles for the help at the track.

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Hey there,
I am running a clutch package setup from BSI, and I've never had a problem with it.
They are SACHS parts I believe, all except for the disc. No springs. But I've never had any trouble with them at all.
 
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