Cool Suit

RacerBill

RacerBill

New member
I have a question about Cool Suits. Where are the hose connections located and how do you route them from the shirt/suit through your driving suit?

My crew chief had knee surgery last month (she's fine, just outpatient job, she cruised half of Walmart on our way home from the hospital). But we got this really neat cooler that pumps cold water through a pad that can be laid flat. Motor is 7volts, so I may have to use the wall wart plugged into a low power power-inverter.

Thanks.:eclipsee_steering:
 
Instead of fooling with hoses, power inverters, coolers ect. why don't you check out the "Cool Vest". I have been wearing one and they work great, will keep you cool for up to two hours in the car. The other great thing is even when you are out of the car and working in the pits you can throw the packs in a cooler of ice and in 20 minutes they are ready to go again so you can stay cool all day and not get overheated while doing any work on you car. Check them out at the site below, we have plenty in stock and ready to ship.
 
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Not sure I understand the question. The "hose connections" are located on one side of the cooler and on the ends of the tubing from the shirt. A dual hose then connects between these two. I cut a small hole in the pocket liner of my suit and feed the tubes through that, it's the only way I could figure it out. You'd never know the hole was in my suit pocket by looking at it. There was a thread on here a few months ago in the bargain section IIRC on how to make a cool suit system. I'm still happy with the one I made.
 
First off, I don't race without one now. Much, much better.

Second, most suits have dual zippers. I just open the bottom zipper a slight amount to run the two hoses out of my suit.

The connectors are medical dry breaks. They can be had from medical supply stores. I bought a cool suit system for a good chunk of change. My buddy built one for less than $100 I think and it works just as good, plus since he used the same medical dry breaks, they are cross compatible.
 
Bill,

The cool suits are the bomb. I built mine for a cost of right at $100. The tshirts can be had for about $70, the rest of the stuff will cost you about $35 including the dry breaks.

The biggest part is the shirt, call Nick at [FONT=&quot]1-847-439-6004 or email them at [email protected]. They are the ones I got my shirt from for $70.

I can post some pictures of my setup if you like. It uses the same $10 bilge pump from Walmart as the big dollar stuff, same $15 cooler, same dry breaks. Dry breaks can be had from www.mcmaster.com , I think that is where I picked mine up.

Ron
 [/FONT]
 
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Bill,

Through the pocket is the logical place.
On a Cool-Shirt brand system the inlet for the shirt is on the bottom edge of the shirt is long enough to feed through the pocket.

Thanks,

Todd
 
JeffYoung said:
First off, I don't race without one now. Much, much better.

Second, most suits have dual zippers. I just open the bottom zipper a slight amount to run the two hoses out of my suit.

The connectors are medical dry breaks. They can be had from medical supply stores. I bought a cool suit system for a good chunk of change. My buddy built one for less than $100 I think and it works just as good, plus since he used the same medical dry breaks, they are cross compatible.
Click to expand...

I do the same thing, and get some chuckles out of it too. It does concern me a little bit, having that "area" not as protected, but the way my seat is designed, I can't come in through the pocket like I would like.
 
spnkzss said:
I do the same thing, and get some chuckles out of it too. It does concern me a little bit, having that "area" not as protected, but the way my seat is designed, I can't come in through the pocket like I would like.
Click to expand...
I'll let you know what my crew chief thinks of that arrangement after I show her the picture. She may never come to the track again!!!!!!! Just kidding.

Thanks, everone for your encouragement and ideas. As I said, I have all the pieces with the exception of the 110V supply. Actually, the setup that I have has a short length of hose attached to the pad, and the long length is permanently attached to the cooler. More like a Short D...... OK! enough!!!
 
If you guys who have bought them from places like Quickcouplings.net can comment about which systems (Cool Shirt, FAST etc) they are compatible with I think you'd do people a favor (not the people selling cool suits). I saw all those in my searches, but was hesitant because I could not be certain that they would be compatible w/ the shirt I have.

Pegasus has just the fittings for about $10ea fitting.
 
MMiskoe said:
Pegasus has just the fittings for about $10ea fitting.
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$10? I got mine locally at Ryan Herco (they're all over) for, I think, around $3/ea.

I guess I made up the difference in the bilge pump. Wallly World here doesn't carry bilge pumps (I can't imagine why?) so I had to get mine at a boat shop; around $25 IIRC...
 
I like the hooded cool shirt. Nothing like cool water up the back of your neck and over your head, what a rush. Just make sure someone doesn't turn the system off and doesn't tell you. :~)
 
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When your couplers are leaking and your bildge pump is clogged and your power inverter fails I will still be cool and comfortable with my COOL VEST.

No mess, no fuss, no worrying if its turned on.
 
Darryl Pritchett said:
When your couplers are leaking and your bildge pump is clogged and your power inverter fails
Click to expand...

All cheap to replace.

What is up with the power inverter? I saw someone with that down below. Bildge pumps work off of 12V, so where is the need for a 12V to 110V inverter?

R
 
To each his own, if you like the cool shirt and having all the plumbing and maintenance that goes with it then go for it. I started using the cool vest and was so impressed with how well it worked and the fact I can wear it around the pits between races and stay cool all day and the fact there is nothing to do but toss you packs in a cooler of ice for 20 minutes and they are ready to go again for several hours. Thats why I actually become a distributor for them because I was so impressed at the ease of use and effectiveness. This cool vest uses Exotherm Type Technology, this in not ice packs they are actully filled with a wax type substance and actully freeze at 50 degress and will last much longer then ice packs and can be recharged thousands upon thousands of times. They are so effective many of the military branches are using them. I have a buddy who has worn both, and likes his cool shirt just fine and continues to use that. But he did say he thought the cool vest kept him cooler all over his torso better then his cool shirt does.

Not trying to debate which one is better just throwing in some options that do work.

As for the inverters I was referring to the medical devices:

Motor is 7volts, so I may have to use the wall wart plugged into a low power power-inverter.
 
Just out of curiosity, what's the material used in the cool vest?

I'd seen some a while back that used paraffin wax. Obviously a bad idea.

-Kyle
 
disquek said:
Just out of curiosity, what's the material used in the cool vest?

I'd seen some a while back that used paraffin wax. Obviously a bad idea.

-Kyle
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I'm not a chemical engineer but here is some info from the manufacture. But it is not a paraffin wax.

The Heat Transfer Formula is an inert, non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, carbon-based chemical that is virtually odorless and has the greasy consistency and feel of castor oil. It also weighs less than water of the same volume so the UniPaks will be positively buoyant. In its liquid state, if the cool pack should leak onto clothing or your skin, you should immediately remove the vest and wash the clothing and/or your skin with mild soap and water.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION​
​
​
[FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]: ​

[/FONT][FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]
Constant Temperature when charged of ≈55°F / 12.8°C

Cooling Duration: ≈ ​
[/FONT]3.5 – 5 hours (refer to Air Force EOD Test & Evaluation) ​

​
[FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]
Net Weight Complete: Standard – 4.3 lbs ​
[/FONT]Large - ≈ 6.2 lbs ​


[FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]
UniPak™ - Anatomically designed to allow full range of movement for female and male body types and accommodate SCBA and other equipment. [UniPak bladder is "medical grade" proprietary 15 mil Tripolymer Polyurethane vessel (400% stretch w/excellent memory) that repels bacteria, grime or microbes] UniPak is also available as a Fire Resistant model (specifications for both below).

Proprietary Thermal Wave Sealing™ of UniPaks specifically designed to absorb blunt force impact (e.g. outer seals withstand ≈​
[/FONT]450 PSI [FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]with internal seals releasing at ≈200 PSI. [/FONT]*Refer to Blunt Force Trauma Resistance Body Armor Test ​

​
[FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]
Filled 15 mil NFR UniPak specific gravity: .77 (weighs less than water of same volume by 24%)
​
[/FONT]
Proprietary Fire Resistant UniPak Specifications: ​
​
[FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]Listed under UL94 flame classes as V-2 at 0.020" thick. Opaque coloring is proprietary technology. (≈45 second flame resistance burn through) **Same blunt force impact absorption as NFR 15 mil [/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma][/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma,Tahoma]The way I look at if its good enough for the Air Force fire fighting unit and it gives me a 45 second flame resistant burn through its good enough for me. Remember this is under our SFI rated suite so if the fire gets through my suit for more then 45 seconds then I am a crisp critter anyway and it would not matter what I was wearing.​

♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦
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