Differences between '83 and '85 RX-7

tom_sprecher

tom_sprecher

Super Moderator
I totaled my '83 Friday during Test Day. I'm looking at a '85 that is local and need to know if there are any real differences in the shell of an '85 vs. an '83. I'd hate to buy and strip it just to find that mounting points are different for the drive train, suspension, brakes, etc. Should I wait for an '83 or what?

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Thanks,
 
Sorry about your accident. I had an 1982 that I crashed and moved everything over to a 1985 chassis. I moved the 1982 suspension as whole to the new chassis. I don't think there are many differences between the 83 and 85 as far as the shell is concerned. Obviously the drive train, front suspension, rear axle, etc. are different. I have an 83 in my garage that I was going to make a street car AND a 1985 IT7 for sale if you are interested. I don't have time for either. Check the classified board.
 
i am pretty sure everthing will bolt up. only thing I am not sure of is the master cylinder, they made a bunch of different ones.
 
Tom, bummer I know the feeling. Are you ok ? Did a better job on my 85 July 10th 2005 at the Farm just after taking the lead in the race. My first comment to you after looking at the photos & knowing what my car looked like I wouldn't jump to quick to get at a new car. Have you ever viewed the "orange chush" photos of the car Russ Marsahll (sp) did at Alanta ? He had his fixed. Look at the car real good before making a new build decision.

I was going to build a new car but decided to build a Spec Miata. The 1981 through 1983 chassis has one suspension featutre which is the chosen feature over the 1984/85. The chosen feature is the rear lower link forward chassis pick-up point is approx 3/4 inch higher/closer to the bottom of the chassis than the 1981/83 cars. In other words the chassis pick-up point is 3/4 inch higher compared to the normal center line or the rear axle. I don't care what the word within the ITA/7 race group is, take a look at what year the FAST E Production cars are built from. This difference helps the rear of the car during suspension movements.

If a RX-7 is converted from rear drum to rear disc the larger diam,eter master cylinder from a rear disc system needs to be installed.

I have a RUST FREE DENT FREE 1982 RX-7 from Oregon City, Oregon with the inside totaly striped out including the floor CRAP. I also have a complete 4 races from new suspension including third link & Panhard. Have other stuff also, trans, motors, fenders, hood, radiators & things.

Tom, IIRC your from the South East. I live in Wisconsin but half way ain't a bad drive. Let me know of any interest. [email protected] 1-414-453-0929
 
Hey Tom I helped you load yuor car friday. I think the car could be fixed ther are alot of good shops out ther you could ask Russ or I know of a real good shop in Goldsboro N.C .The shop owner is one of the best IT7 drivers in the south east and aslo very well know on this form. Mr Rickey T. Give him a try ,by the way he aslo has a huge lot of doner cars waiting to be given a chance to be built . 919-736-1990
 
Tom's car has pretty extensive damage on the left rear quarter, which is why I think it would be cheaper/easier just to swap chassis. I'm no body expert and didn't believe that my car could be fixed either, shows what I know.

Conners body shop fixed my front end (and did a great job), but it took them months to do. I've been working with a new shop up in Gainsville called McGraw Collision (770.561.4876). They have a frame machine and do good quick work. Might be worth a trip up there to see what they think.

If you decide to get another shell and need a cage put in call up Billy at ReSpeed (404.310.0835), He's done a few 7s and does really nice work.

If you need other parts or stuff call Atilla, his shop # is 770.720.2039, he probably has 10-15 first gens laying around to pick parts off of.

Sorry about the car man, good to meet you tho...
 
Thanks guys for the responses. I'm still in some real pain and will go to the Dr. today to see about my ribs. I'm OK as long as I don't move, breath deeply, sneeze or worst of all, cough.

Like crushed said the rear took a good hit and kinked the middle of the rear deck up about 3" which popped the spare tire cover rivets, kinked the RR Q-panel which did not hit anything and busted upward the rear window as there is little glass in the car. I'll get some advice but with the front and rear frame damage I don't know if its worth trying to salvage.

There is an '85 10 miles away for $500 and if everything would fit it sure would be convenient. I'd rather have an '83 to be sure plus my dash and other interior stuff would fit right in. We'll see what happens as I still have to save up some $ and strip the old car. I'll give Rick a call to see what he thinks.

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... The 1981 through 1983 chassis has one suspension featutre which is the chosen feature over the 1984/85. The chosen feature is the rear lower link forward chassis pick-up point is approx 3/4 inch higher/closer to the bottom of the chassis than the 1981/83 cars. In other words the chassis pick-up point is 3/4 inch higher compared to the normal center line or the rear axle. ...
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Dave, are you saying the 81-83 is more desireable because the pickup point is 'higher'? I think your years/wording got intermingled (81-83 chosen feature ... better than the 81/83?) causing me confusion. The rear links were lowered 20mm for 84/85. From some rx history for 1984 model changes... "Mazda reduced the tailhappiness of the RX-7 by lowering the rear trailing arms by 20mm. .... The rear suspension alteration was applied to all models."
 
The shell is a gonner as is the axle housing. Once in my shop it is immediately evident that the whole car is bent like a bannana. The drive shaft tunnel is kinked in 3 places and the RR quarter panel and B pillar are kinked which is odd as the hit was on the left side.

Anyway, I'll begin stripping it down this weekend and hope to find another '83 ASAP. If you hear of anything let me know.

I can't believe I worked on the damn thing for 6 months just to destroy it in less than 6 hours. However, the video of the session was worth it. If I knew how to convert from VHS to .mpeg or whatever, I'd post it and let everyone tell me what the hell I did wrong.

Thanks,
 
***I don't care what the word within the ITA/7 race group is, take a look at what year the FAST E Production cars are built from. This difference helps the rear of the car during suspension movements.***

Steve, do some homework with the Productuion folks & please report back. ;)
 
David,

Which is better for the cars that don't have the tri-link/panhard (street cars and Spec7's)? The '83 or the '85? I don't have the switch completed from my '83 rustbucket to the '85, so I haven't been able to drive it to notice any difference. I chose the '85 based on advice surrounding the 20mm move in the mounting point.

Jeff
 
Since they are all on the same spec line, if the part could be changed, wouldn't that be legal, as long as all the rest of that assembly was the same?
 
I've raced my pro7 (85 chassis) with the mounts in both spots (legal in pro7). The car felt better in the higher mounts, but was faster in the original 85 mounting holes.

Pro7 cars run on 185/60 toyos on stock rims, with a watts linkage, so YMMV.


Marcus
 
Steve, do some homework with the Productuion folks & please report back. ;)
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Well, since you trashed an '85, and were going to replace it with an '82, I would say that your feeling is the s2 is better. Plus, Thrash runs an '83 I believe, and he is fast. Your original post was worded that an 81-83 was better than an 81-83. I'm assming higher (closer to frame) gives the suspension increased travel capabilities when the susp is lowered, assuming the frame end is the end that got moved. If the axle end was moved down, then the 84-5 would have additional travel at lowered susp height.

In the spec rx-7 world, s3's seem to be on top.

I shouldn't do this crap so late at night. :birra:
 
Jeff, to be truthful with the OEM stuff I ain't good enough to know the differende & I did Spec-7 for 4 years with several Q. & R. records.

***Since they are all on the same spec line, if the part could be changed, wouldn't that be legal, as long as all the rest of that assembly was the same?***

Jake, any part can be changed. ;) Being that the CRB CHANGES rules to please I ain't going to argue the point.
 
David, forget the CRB sniping...is the mod legal or not?

If you like the pickup point on an 81, and you have an old '81 available, with the pick up point part in good condition, is there any legal reason you couldn't simply move the part to your, say, '85 chassis? As long as they are on the same spec line, and you are not creating a combination assembly that couldn't be purchased, it seems like that might be the simple way to go.
 
***is there any legal reason you couldn't simply move the part to your, say, '85 chassis? As long as they are on the same spec line, and you are not creating a combination assembly that couldn't be purchased, it seems like that might be the simple way to go.***

Jake, as I understand the rule 17.1.4.C.

Each year of 1st gen RX-7 has a series of vin numbers. Ya can't buy a 1984/1985 chassis (an assembly) with the closer to the chassis floor lower link welded to the chassis suspension pickup point. (As a side note, LP/Restricted Suspension Production car people are not allowed to relocate pickup points. ;) ) Second, within the stated rule 17.1.4.C. if ya want to call the chassis an assembly, any updated/backdated components SHALL be substituted as a complete assembly.................bla, bla, bla...........

When all else fails, It don't say ya can therefore ya can't.

O-$hit, I didn't answer your question. NOT LEGAL per ^. ;)

If ya don't buy my line or lines please provide the rule that says ya can carve the pickup point weldment off a 1981/1983 chassis & weld the pickup point to a 1984/1985 chassis.
 
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