E30 lights
- Thread starter Willisbe
- Start date
DaveITB1
New member
Hey Jeremy,
We ran our '85 318i at the Twilight Enduro at Pocono in May from 6pm to 9pm. It rained the whole 3hrs.
We have 4 BMW highbeam lights in the 4 regular positions. Worked fine going straight. Tough to see around the corners in the infield at Pocono. We are going to add a light bar for the next race that goes into the evening.
There was a Miata running there with a light bar setup that we are going to copy.
- Take a piece of square tubing about 2-3ft long.
- If you have 2, bolt some offroad lights through the tubing at either end.
- Angle them out about 30-45 degrees to use for cornering. (If 3-4 lights on the bar, set the middle lights straight ahead)
- Bolt the tubing up through that big front bumper of yours, from the bottom up so as not to cover your existing headlights.
- Tap into the light wire for existing lights and add a quick-release plug to end. Do the same for the light bar wiring.
- Pull wire through front grill and tape to front bumper.
- When sun goes down, car pits, light bar attached and plugged in, off you go.
- When sun comes up again, car pits, detach wire and light bar from bumper, off you go to victory.
Hope this breakdown gives you some ideas.
Smarty and I are looking forward to seeing you again at the Enduro at the end of October. Will you be there?
- Dave Austin
Team Jagermeister
We ran our '85 318i at the Twilight Enduro at Pocono in May from 6pm to 9pm. It rained the whole 3hrs.
We have 4 BMW highbeam lights in the 4 regular positions. Worked fine going straight. Tough to see around the corners in the infield at Pocono. We are going to add a light bar for the next race that goes into the evening.
There was a Miata running there with a light bar setup that we are going to copy.
- Take a piece of square tubing about 2-3ft long.
- If you have 2, bolt some offroad lights through the tubing at either end.
- Angle them out about 30-45 degrees to use for cornering. (If 3-4 lights on the bar, set the middle lights straight ahead)
- Bolt the tubing up through that big front bumper of yours, from the bottom up so as not to cover your existing headlights.
- Tap into the light wire for existing lights and add a quick-release plug to end. Do the same for the light bar wiring.
- Pull wire through front grill and tape to front bumper.
- When sun goes down, car pits, light bar attached and plugged in, off you go.
- When sun comes up again, car pits, detach wire and light bar from bumper, off you go to victory.
Hope this breakdown gives you some ideas.
Smarty and I are looking forward to seeing you again at the Enduro at the end of October. Will you be there?
- Dave Austin
Team Jagermeister
We've served as crew or crew chief the last 3 years 12 hour races and comments about using stock positions being fine for straights but not adequate for corners are correct. We used an add on plate which spun bolted on right about bumper with 4 auxiliary lights, which was probably overkill and did not help alternator problems that we had. Because we did not have to install it until dusk we save drag issue during daylight. The best set up I saw was a Mini with 2 pencil beam halogens mounted on top of the front fenders which could then be aimed slightly to the sides with really helped in corners. Because they were running about the same speed, we just ran behind them for several hours, which was great.
Over the winter I had a hard time finding out information specific to my car in regards to doing a long enduro so I will share this info in case anyone else is crazy enough or has a bug to do a real enduro.
Car: 1985 318i
Total laps: 777
Track length: 2 miles
We were able to run the 24 hr w/o any major mechanical issues.
-Fri. night at practice we found that at 1/2 tank the car would sputter coming out of the carousel so fuel stops were every hour and change which really hurt us. I was able to run the tank almost completely out last year and we couldn't find a kink in the line or anything so next year we will put a cell in it.
-We ran Hoosier r3s05 and they lasted a long time. We had real camber/ communication issues on the front and wore out the inside on a tire or two because of it. We changed the pass rear tire about 7:30 pm and finshed the race w/ it on. The total tire use was 4 new/4 heat cycled hoosiers (4 are junk), and 4- 70% used Avons (good enough for a long Fun Day or a one hour enduro).
- We lost almost and hour and a half because we lost a front bumper and the top nut off the strut. We probably could have replaced the nut in about 5 minutes and left the bumper off. We were told "you'll have to go through tech" and took it as replace the bumper and then go through tech.
-Hawk HT-10 brake pads and new oem rotors from BimmerWorld were run on the front with worn GhettoZone shoes and drums on the rear. The pads and rotors appear great, but I think the drums and shoes are worn out now.
There are only 3 times per unobstructed lap that the brakes were hit (my driving); turns 4, 11, & 13
-fuel use was about 6 gallons/hr
- The oem clutch started slipping at mid RPMs w/ 3 hours left
I don't know if there was oil on it or just heat issues
- "spent" expenses were about $4500 (entry, fuel, tires, brakes, crew memberships,....)
- the drivers door, front fender, a dent behind the door, front bumber and rear bumper are items that need fixed.
We suffered from organization issues that were mainly my fault. Next year a cut-off date will be set for upgrades to the car so time can be allotted for organization.
We could have rebuilt the car if anything mechanical/body happened, but little things like tools to adjust camber should have been set out better.
All of the drivers said that they would do it again so it must not have gone too bad.
I haven't even jacked up that car to inspect anything so there may be some other issues.
Jeremy Cesene
#13 ITB
Hillbilly Motorsports
FINISHER of the Longest Day 2007
Car: 1985 318i
Total laps: 777
Track length: 2 miles
We were able to run the 24 hr w/o any major mechanical issues.
-Fri. night at practice we found that at 1/2 tank the car would sputter coming out of the carousel so fuel stops were every hour and change which really hurt us. I was able to run the tank almost completely out last year and we couldn't find a kink in the line or anything so next year we will put a cell in it.
-We ran Hoosier r3s05 and they lasted a long time. We had real camber/ communication issues on the front and wore out the inside on a tire or two because of it. We changed the pass rear tire about 7:30 pm and finshed the race w/ it on. The total tire use was 4 new/4 heat cycled hoosiers (4 are junk), and 4- 70% used Avons (good enough for a long Fun Day or a one hour enduro).
- We lost almost and hour and a half because we lost a front bumper and the top nut off the strut. We probably could have replaced the nut in about 5 minutes and left the bumper off. We were told "you'll have to go through tech" and took it as replace the bumper and then go through tech.
-Hawk HT-10 brake pads and new oem rotors from BimmerWorld were run on the front with worn GhettoZone shoes and drums on the rear. The pads and rotors appear great, but I think the drums and shoes are worn out now.
There are only 3 times per unobstructed lap that the brakes were hit (my driving); turns 4, 11, & 13
-fuel use was about 6 gallons/hr
- The oem clutch started slipping at mid RPMs w/ 3 hours left
I don't know if there was oil on it or just heat issues
- "spent" expenses were about $4500 (entry, fuel, tires, brakes, crew memberships,....)
- the drivers door, front fender, a dent behind the door, front bumber and rear bumper are items that need fixed.
We suffered from organization issues that were mainly my fault. Next year a cut-off date will be set for upgrades to the car so time can be allotted for organization.
We could have rebuilt the car if anything mechanical/body happened, but little things like tools to adjust camber should have been set out better.
All of the drivers said that they would do it again so it must not have gone too bad.
I haven't even jacked up that car to inspect anything so there may be some other issues.
Jeremy Cesene
#13 ITB
Hillbilly Motorsports
FINISHER of the Longest Day 2007
more notes after inspecting the car....
The rear camber adjustment bolt came loose. I was able to pull the bolt out w/o turning it.
Front swaybar spherical rod end was bent (almost broken)
The trans. has an oil leak which caused the OEM clutch to slip
Front brakes and rotors look new
Rear shoes had minimal wear
The remote oil filter mounted on the drivers fender vibrated loose and blew oil everywhere when I restarted it
Jeremy Cesene
Hillbilly Motorsports
The rear camber adjustment bolt came loose. I was able to pull the bolt out w/o turning it.
Front swaybar spherical rod end was bent (almost broken)
The trans. has an oil leak which caused the OEM clutch to slip
Front brakes and rotors look new
Rear shoes had minimal wear
The remote oil filter mounted on the drivers fender vibrated loose and blew oil everywhere when I restarted it
Jeremy Cesene
Hillbilly Motorsports