Fun Topic!!!

RSTPerformance

RSTPerformance

New member
What things can you do to eliminate push or understeer??? I drive a front wheel drive car and yes i have a strong desire to go fast so I probally overdrive it a little, and yes I know to go fast you need to first slow down but what other driving techniques or car modifications can you do or do you do. Trail braking, feathering the throttle, stiffer suspension, softer suspension, tighter rear sway bar. Just thought we could have a fun and enjoyable thread eventhough the others are very entertaining!!!

Stephen
www.rstperformance.com
 
Hey Stephen, thanks for keeping this light! That parts removal thread was giving me a headache!

I think I mentioned in the Honda forum that I like to play with tire pressures when I autocross to get the rear end to come around. My three favorite words in the english language: LIFT THROTTLE OVERSTEER!
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I think that's what attracts me to motorsport most- that delicate dance on the line between control and loss of control, where we can pitch the car, bike, or whatever from corner to corner and wheel to wheel. Then we get to come back to the pits and tell everyone about it!

-T


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Tom Southworth

'93 Honda Civic
Currently prepping for IT Roadrace, CSP AutoX
Remember: Racecar backward is still Racecar!

[This message has been edited by il8apex (edited August 04, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by il8apex (edited August 04, 2001).]
 
Softning the front suspension and stiffning the rear (or combination of them) can help.
[EDIT]
Also, increasing front tires pressure and reducing rear tires peressure should also help quite a bit.
[/EDIT]
Finally, if you drive a wrong wheel drive, trade up to a RWD
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R.

[This message has been edited by RussellH (edited August 07, 2001).]
 
In AX'ing the GS Probe I learned from Dannielle Engstrom nee: Davorak that the front bar/spring rate for the Probe GT was too stiff in combination. A switch to the Mx6 front bar lessened the tendancy of the front bar to lift the inside front wheel therefore lessening go-faster grip.

I switched to high quality Koni stuts up front, maxed camber, and made the front wheels weigh less by buying lighter ones.

Funnily enough it was felt by most of the better drivers that a stiffer rear bar was not needed, though a rate change could be achieved with stiffer shocks to improve response. With the Tokico's the car experienced improved responsiveness, and made for a more competitive ride.

Though my skill was limited by my head and I only posted fastest class times during fun runs - usually my first fun run would have won the event.

OK, I admit it - I'm a whacko...
 
Stephen,

I don't really know anything about the Audi chassis, but I can't imagine it's that much different than any of the VW chassis'. I don't have a push problem w/ my car, I think it drives pretty neutral. It is loose on a wet or cold track though.

Try Russell's suggestions for suspension changes. If it's only slight to moderate push, try tire pressure first.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
 
Originally posted by Bill Miller:
Stephen,

I don't really know anything about the Audi chassis, but I can't imagine it's that much different than any of the VW
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Hey Bill,

Ya the big difference is that the engine faces the other direction. and since it's five cylenders it also weighs a lot more. then the big difference is that almost the entire engine sits in front of the front wheels!!! the edge of the hood is at the edge of the engine, they really crammed it in there. It makes it almost impossible for engine swaps, all the rally cars cut the front of the car in the center behind the bumper and where the hood latch is so they can take them out without taking all the accessories of the engine first. I think this is illigal for IT though. So I think we have alot more weight in front of the front wheels which probally causes a lot of the turn in problems. We also need to invest in a rear swaybar, but I don't know anyone that makes one besides Blaufergnugan and that one is really for street use. we have been planning on designing one but not sure how to start and what to use!!!

By the way I think you raced against my brother and I at Pocono the begining of the year at the double. Where you pitted next to the other coupe that was there??

Stephen
 
WRT a rear bar, you might take a look at circle track hardware outlets, where you can often buy modular bits to build your bar--arms, bars of various lengths and diameters, links, and mounts. The rate is determined by the arm length and the diameter of the bar, tubular bars being not a bunch stiffer (of the same diameter and material) than solid ones.

I had a 4000 5+5 street car (wish I still did) and understand your dilemma. I used to trail brake it on offramps and country roads to get the nose pointed in. The toughest issue might well be determining where to mount the bar...

Shocks can make a big difference in the rate that weight transfer happens (though not the ultimate transfer). There is lots of room to play there, even without super-adjustable shocks.

Kirk
 
Stephen,

Yes, I raced against you and your brother at the Pocono dbl. I was in the Blue #25 Rabbit GTI. I was actually paddocked right next to the grid fence, on the other side of the lane that went to the grid than you guys were on.

Do the Audi's have a rear beam axle like the VW's? If it's a similar design, you might be able to use a BSI style rear bar.

Or, you may want to take Kirk's advice. You might be able to use a dirt track style torsion bar (can get them in different rates) and then just attach the mounts to the axle beam.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
 
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