Good choice?
- Thread starter Gill
- Start date
You can download the General Competition Rules (GCR) from SCCA's web site. It's really dangerous (from a $$ wasting standpoint) to make any decision about car choice and preparation until you have a pretty good idea what can - and can't - be done.
And stick around here and ask questions. People will point you in the right direction.
K
And stick around here and ask questions. People will point you in the right direction.
K
gran racing
Super Moderator
Here's a starting point that SCCA uses and it's free. There are also a bunch of people on this site who have volunteered to be mentors. Take advantage of their offer to help you as well. http://www.GoAheadTakeTheWheel.com
spawpoet
New member
If you want to limit your budget, the V-8 Mustang may not be the way to go. Though parts are relatively cheap and easy to find, a heavy, high HP car like that will (in all likelihood) be hard on the consumables like brake pads, tires, and fuel that make up the greatest part of your ongoing racing budget. Smaller cars like Miatas, or any of a myriad of Hondas are far more economical to run, and are every bit as much fun. In between you find the RX-7's, Datsun Z's, and BMW's that give you a few more ponies than the smaller cars, but still don't generally burn up the consumables as fast as a big V-8 car will.
Also if you are looking to get into this, it's far cheaper in the long run to buy a car that's already been built than to build yourself. It can often be several times more expensive to build than to buy the same car that someone else has already prepped.
Also if you are looking to get into this, it's far cheaper in the long run to buy a car that's already been built than to build yourself. It can often be several times more expensive to build than to buy the same car that someone else has already prepped.
Ok a mustang will be more expensive to drive. Any other down falls for the fox body mustang?
I have always liked the Datsun Z. But I did figure running the other cars with parts a little harder to get and costs higher would be a no go. And if something happens and need to sell the car, the boys around here love the fox body for drag.
I didnt think the fox body would be that much heavier then a Z ect.
I have always liked the Datsun Z. But I did figure running the other cars with parts a little harder to get and costs higher would be a no go. And if something happens and need to sell the car, the boys around here love the fox body for drag.
I didnt think the fox body would be that much heavier then a Z ect.
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dickita15
New member
Learning to race wheel to wheel takes a fair amount of effort and to get reasonably good takes a fair amount of track time but is certainly a lot of fun.
Building a car for Improved Touring racing is a fair amount of work and you really have to spend some time learning the rule set and some of the work around solutions to some of the limits placed on a car builder by the rules but it certainly can be a lot of fun.
Developing a car that not many have raced under a given rule set is a lot of work and a lot of trial and error and can be pretty expensive but I imagine it can be quite satisfying when you get it right. And when you get it done it will be worth a 25% of what you spent.
Doing all three at the same time is a monumental task. I would think about what I really want. Is the car building and or development the part that really excites you or is it the driving. If there is any doubt, buy a miata or some other car that lots of people are running, learn to race and then if you want build the dream car.
If building up the car is the fun part the do what it says in Dave’s book linked above and start with track days as you modify the car and learn how to sort it out. Keep the IT rules in mind along the way and then move to wheel to wheel as you get better at driving and prepping the car.
Building a car for Improved Touring racing is a fair amount of work and you really have to spend some time learning the rule set and some of the work around solutions to some of the limits placed on a car builder by the rules but it certainly can be a lot of fun.
Developing a car that not many have raced under a given rule set is a lot of work and a lot of trial and error and can be pretty expensive but I imagine it can be quite satisfying when you get it right. And when you get it done it will be worth a 25% of what you spent.
Doing all three at the same time is a monumental task. I would think about what I really want. Is the car building and or development the part that really excites you or is it the driving. If there is any doubt, buy a miata or some other car that lots of people are running, learn to race and then if you want build the dream car.
If building up the car is the fun part the do what it says in Dave’s book linked above and start with track days as you modify the car and learn how to sort it out. Keep the IT rules in mind along the way and then move to wheel to wheel as you get better at driving and prepping the car.
spawpoet
New member
Your Mustang options within the rule set are as follows:
79'-93' Ford Mustang 2.3l in ITB @ 2550 lbs
94'-98' Ford Mustang LX V-6 in ITS @ 2470 lbs (I think I've heard it's hard to get down to this weight)
99'-02' Ford Mustang V6 in ITR @ 2670 lbs (see above on making weight)
94'-95' Ford Mustang GT (no Cobras) in ITR @ 3195 lbs
89'-93' Ford Mustang GT & LX (no Cobras) in ITR @ 3340 lbs
As a reference the RX-7s and the Z's in ITS run between 2400-2600lbs so there is a pretty big weight difference.
A lot of people think the V-8 Stangs will be solid in ITR once people start building them. They are relatively new to the class. Also as Kurt noted above, the 4 banger can make a good ITB car, and there have been a number of threads on here with a wealth of information on them. That would be a load less expensive than running the V-8 cars. I am no Ford expert, but there are a number of Ford guys on here, and there have been several recent threads discussing the competitiveness of various Mustangs if you haven't already seen them.
Again, really the cheapest way to get into this is buy buying a car that's already built. Even if you have to go with a model you know less about, the savings will be enough to give you a budget for 1-2 race seasons, and unless you blow the motor or stuff the car in all likelihood you would still be able to sell the car for what you paid for it. It's really a buyers market right now when it comes to race cars. Good luck!!
79'-93' Ford Mustang 2.3l in ITB @ 2550 lbs
94'-98' Ford Mustang LX V-6 in ITS @ 2470 lbs (I think I've heard it's hard to get down to this weight)
99'-02' Ford Mustang V6 in ITR @ 2670 lbs (see above on making weight)
94'-95' Ford Mustang GT (no Cobras) in ITR @ 3195 lbs
89'-93' Ford Mustang GT & LX (no Cobras) in ITR @ 3340 lbs
As a reference the RX-7s and the Z's in ITS run between 2400-2600lbs so there is a pretty big weight difference.
A lot of people think the V-8 Stangs will be solid in ITR once people start building them. They are relatively new to the class. Also as Kurt noted above, the 4 banger can make a good ITB car, and there have been a number of threads on here with a wealth of information on them. That would be a load less expensive than running the V-8 cars. I am no Ford expert, but there are a number of Ford guys on here, and there have been several recent threads discussing the competitiveness of various Mustangs if you haven't already seen them.
Again, really the cheapest way to get into this is buy buying a car that's already built. Even if you have to go with a model you know less about, the savings will be enough to give you a budget for 1-2 race seasons, and unless you blow the motor or stuff the car in all likelihood you would still be able to sell the car for what you paid for it. It's really a buyers market right now when it comes to race cars. Good luck!!
A FI 2.3L 5 speed Fox Notchback Mustang would be the car to race in ITB IF you just have to run a Mustang. The early carb engines do have some asvantages as they are a bit lighter as the FI system does add some weight but the later FI engines should make a more power due to better heads and intakes and if their tuned right.
I raced a 1993 Cobra R in club racing in ITE or other "run what you brung" classs and even with modifications you will go thorugh brake pads, rotors, tires, & fuel at a rate 3 times as much as most other IT cars and the parts costs more as well!
I am returning to racing and plan on doing it in a cheap to race car. When it's ready.
I raced a 1993 Cobra R in club racing in ITE or other "run what you brung" classs and even with modifications you will go thorugh brake pads, rotors, tires, & fuel at a rate 3 times as much as most other IT cars and the parts costs more as well!
I am returning to racing and plan on doing it in a cheap to race car. When it's ready.
The car was a track car when I bought it. The "wrapper" near zero mile cars are the ones that can command the big bucks. I bought mine in '95 for about 15% over sticker price with cage, racing seats, belts, fire system, and a few other misc. items already installed. I raced it for 9 years and sold it in '06 for a bit less then what I payed for it.
Ron Earp
Administrator
Gill, where in NC are you located? I'm a long time Ford nut, have owned many Mustangs, and currently race a Z. I live in Cary NC. If you're local maybe we could get together and try and help you out a bit.
SVO's aren't allowed. I used to have a beautiful 86, great cars. But in IT no turbocharging/supercharging is allowed and thus the cars are not classed.
SVO's aren't allowed. I used to have a beautiful 86, great cars. But in IT no turbocharging/supercharging is allowed and thus the cars are not classed.
Ron, thanks for the info. Iam a Ford nut also. I live in Lumberton and have always loved motorsports. Iam leaving in two weeks for training for a up coming deployment. I was just trying to get a idea before I leave what road I can talk. So when I get back I can hit the ground running.