Hello all.....newbie questions.

J

jrx13

New member
Hello everyone! Just thought I'd introduce myself. Name is Jack and I have an 85 GSLSE that I autox and use for open track occasionally, but the real news is a 87 RX7 base model I just picked up. Now I'd eventually like to get this car ready for ITS but that would be further down the road. So for now, I just want to build it up little by little and use this car at some open track days instead of the GSLSE. I would like to do some mods but do not want to find out it's illegal and have to go back and redo stuff all over. I dont have a GCR and I couldn't find any info on the past posts. Anyway if anyone doesn't mind helping a newbie out, here goes:

1)What interior parts have to stay in the car? I believe the dash is part of the rules. Anything else? How about the headliner, storage bins, rear hatch stuff, etc.

2)Can I remove the BAC valve, the thermowax, and the EGR? How about the double throttle plates in the throttle body? I know the 89+ intake is the sweet setup, but I am going to just make do with what I have.

3)Do most people run the six ports, tie them open, or remove them altogether?

4)Whats the most popular exhaust system used for these cars? I figure the stainless steel header from mazdacomp. Then do you go dual pipes all the way? Merge right after the header into one large single pipe? Or dual all the way possible to one single? What size piping is most popular?

Thanks for all the help, I'm sure I'll have a whole lot more questions in the future. I really enjoy this forum and have learned alot from reading the posts!

-Jack
[email protected]
 
Jack, the best thing you can do for yourself if you are going to follow your dream is to purchase a GCR...... Go to www.scca.org & fish around for the order info. $30 for non members.

------------------
Have Fun

David Dewhurst
CenDiv Milwaukee Region Spec-7 #14
 
Jack,

Get the GCR, it'll take some time. I ordered mine over a month ago and still haven't seen hide nor hair. Most of your questions have been answered and debated in posts over time...search through the archives..you'll probably find most of the answers there.
As far as what can and can't be removed...you are smarter than most by not wanting to do it twice. Most "open track" cars aren't IT legal because of something that has been removed. If you get into it knowing that, you can have alot of fun tinkering, but realize you are killing the resale value of your race car.
Basically, you can spend a ton of money on suspension, balance, blueprint, port match, get the computer re-done but don't remove that windshield washer bottle, or put a smaller battery in it because then you'll be illegal!
 
Whoa??? Since when is it legal to port match rotories for IT competition? Was something posted in Fastrack that I missed, cause it sure is illegal per the 2002 GCR.
 
Okay, forgive me for not specifying..."match port piston engine heads and manifolds upto 1 inch...blah, blah,blah" I forgot I was on a Mazda page. My point was to get the GCR because there is a ton of stuff you can do to make your car more race caresque, and little non-performance issues that you can't do because of "class philosophy"/"rules creep"
 
Hey thanks for all you help. I went and ordered a GCR. Hopefully it wont take forever to get here. Going back and rereading past articles, I am going to say the best exhaust to start with is a dual outlet header to two two inch pipes collecting right before the axle into a single 3 inch muffler. Does that sound about right? Anyone know the db if I use the stainless steel header from mazdacomp and the 3 inch round dynomax muffler? I plan to race at Laguna Seca and they have a 90db limit I believe. Do i have to run some glass packs?
I also found that removing the smog equipment is ok and removing the six ports seems to be the way to go. Now I just gotta wait for the GCR and find what interior pieces I can junk

-Jrx13
 
I am right up there with you jrx13. I ran on the west coast in PRO-7 in NASA and SCCA last year, and I am building an ITS RX-7 in a couple of years (long story). I found that the site www.motorbooks.com has a few books on RX-7's. There's quite a bit to know on the history along with model changes, trans ratio's, suspensions, and the like to update and back date for your class. The GCR is the best place to start so you only change things once; and of course, this website has the people to answer all of your questions. Comradery is the strength to a race class, and of course the reliability of the RX-7.

Thanks for the space,
Corey (SoPAC)
 
The guys on here have been a great help in building our ITA RX7, so ask questions alot... but always keep your GCR with you and read it before asking, because some guys get a little huffy if you ask questions that are in the GCR
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Dont use glasspacks... the 1500 degree exhaust temps turn them into real "glass"packs. If you have to go that way, cut them open, empty the fiberglass, and stuff it with steel wool.

Oh... and keep all of the trim handy in case you don't make minimum weight. Then you can easily add it back in if you're just a few pounds under the first time you weigh in.

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Scott
It's not what you build... it's how you build it

rx7sigpic.jpg

PFM Racing
 
I haven't recieved my GCR Book yet so I have a few questions that I hope someone could assist me with as well.

1) Looking into, no, I am getting into ITS with a 2nd Gen, and can't wait to find out if a GTU is a good starting point. I know that they were the "light-weights" with no power options, but do they come with the close 5th that I've read somewhere in this .com? I don't want to ask too many questions at once. I CAN wait till my GCR comes in.

2) BTW, I can pick up a late model GTU for a great price, what to look for?

Enough, I know we can beat those 240's!!!

Corey.
 
Jack,

Specifically to answer your questions, IMHO of course.

1. Dash and everything behind it (except radio) remains. All carpeting and rear storage bins are gone. Headliner is gone. That leaves the door panels (which must remain unless you replace with .060 Aluminum sheet or use NASCAR style door bars on the drivers side, in which can you can loose the drivers side panel (since you've got to cut out most of the inner door skin.

2. BAC valve should remain unless you can come up with some creative way to claim that's part of the smog gear. Besides, it isnt' hurting anything. Thermowax I have usually seen removed, and the reason given is that Choke mechanisms may be removed (and in effect, that's what the Thermowax does). EGR is gonzo'd (smog) as well as ACV.

3) Most wire open (since they've removed the airpump and cats, no way to actuate them) but you are legally not allowed to remove (unless you can come up with a way to claim those are part of smog too)

4)No idea
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Most guys told me they went custom, running the Racing Beat dual outlet to true duals sounds like a good, but loud plan. I'm going with RB 2-1 header, and 2 1/2" out the pass side. But I have no idea how good or bad that is yet
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Corey,

Remember, 88 GTU and 89-91 GTU are two totally different cars. The 88 GTU is the stripper hot rod, lightweight, big brakes, LSD, 4:30 rear, closer ratio 5th gear, but no power options. The 89-91 GTU is the base model, 5 lug rotors but single piston brakes, no LSD, 4:10 rear (stock for almost all NA coupes).

So is the GTU a good starting point. In either case yes, but remember to keep the differentiation straight, the 89-91 GTU is NOT the super duper car the 88 GTU was. Doesn't mean you can't turn it into one, and 88 GTU cars are rarer than hens teeth.

89-91s are about 100lbs heavier than 86-88s, but they're rated at 14 more HP. You'll want the 4 piston brakes from an 86-88 GXL, and shortterm, the LSD from the early GXLs as well. Ideally, go with the Torsen from Mazdaspeed (ex MazdaComp)

What to look for?

Depends.. Are you going to get a rebuilt engine or try to use the one that comes with the car? If the latter, look for evidence of coolant leaks. Smoke on startup is ok, but not excessive, and it should go away quickly. definitely don't want gobs of smoke on decel or acceleration. Check for oil in the coolant, or coolant in the oil, both are very bad signs (I know, I know, obvious stuff, but it's not quite as easy to fix as it is in a boinger)

Expect brake fluid leaks, especially if the car has ABS, you'll probably want to replace the master cylinder (clutch and brake) immediately anyway. Avoid ABS if you can, it's not allowed, and the lines are a mess to try and splice together (easier to just pull the lines out of a non abs junker). RX-7s did come with manual steering, which I think I'll prefer over the speed senstive PS (which sucked IMHO), but you can always retrofit that later. Look for oil leaks near the oil cooler, expect to replace those lines, pref. with SS lines, for reliability.

I can't think of anything else off the top of my head. If you want an immediate 30lbs weight savings, scrounge around the RX-7 sites for an aluminum hood, you'll be amazed at how light that is.

G'luck, both of you.

PaulC
http://www.lcaf.com/silk/RX-7/rx-7.html
 
Ok! Just got the GCR, been skimming through it and found out its ok to remove or disable six ports. Looks like I probably chuck 'em and remove the egr at the same time. Got the rear carpeting all stripped out now too. Now all I gotta do is save some money for the suspension kit.

-jrx13
 
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