Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter ndavidson
- Start date
Step 1 - Download and read the rules. Google "SCCA GCR"
Step 2 - Start hanging out with other IT drivers, go look at some cars, and go to some races
Step 3 - Ignore half of what you learn from Step 2; go back to Step 1
Step 4 - Realize that you're doing it bass-ackwards and buy a car that's already built - statistics say that you won't do this but it's worth a try to suggest it...
The short answer to your questions are "ITB" and "sort of." You can use any engine, retaining the entire long block as an assembly, from any of the Mustangs listed on the "spec line" for the car in the Improved Touring Competition Specifications.
You're actually looking at one of the cars in the book for which there are the most options available, under what we call the "update-backdate rule." I personally think that the entire lifespan of 4-cylinder Mustangs should be broken into a couple of separate spec lines but it's not current like that.
It's actually a good choice for the class, I think, and there's at least one guy who posts here who really knows about them. Maybe he'll sell you one.
Good luck!
K
Step 2 - Start hanging out with other IT drivers, go look at some cars, and go to some races
Step 3 - Ignore half of what you learn from Step 2; go back to Step 1
Step 4 - Realize that you're doing it bass-ackwards and buy a car that's already built - statistics say that you won't do this but it's worth a try to suggest it...
The short answer to your questions are "ITB" and "sort of." You can use any engine, retaining the entire long block as an assembly, from any of the Mustangs listed on the "spec line" for the car in the Improved Touring Competition Specifications.
You're actually looking at one of the cars in the book for which there are the most options available, under what we call the "update-backdate rule." I personally think that the entire lifespan of 4-cylinder Mustangs should be broken into a couple of separate spec lines but it's not current like that.
It's actually a good choice for the class, I think, and there's at least one guy who posts here who really knows about them. Maybe he'll sell you one.
Good luck!
K
I'll make it even easier for you; select this link:
http://cms.scca.com/documents/2011 Tech/2011 GCR-printed version.pdf
Hate to sound flippant, but READ THE RULES. Until you do that, you're lost and we can't help you.
Here's the main page:
http://www.scca.com
...and a link to a book to get you started:
http://www.goaheadtakethewheel.com/
GA
Z3_GoCar
New member
You also might want to read the Ford section from the begining:
http://www.improvedtouring.com/foru...age=1&pp=20&sort=title&order=asc&daysprune=-1
As for Googling the GCR, I ususally search for "SCCA club racing cars and rules"
http://www.improvedtouring.com/foru...age=1&pp=20&sort=title&order=asc&daysprune=-1
As for Googling the GCR, I ususally search for "SCCA club racing cars and rules"
Since I'm new to IT , I feel your pain ... Here's what I did to plan and budget my build :
Print the IT rules
Go thru the rules line by line
In the right margin , write down the mods you plan
In the left margin , write down what you can't do
From there , drop your build into a spreadsheet , price it out and prioritize
Search this site for specific posts related to your car ( ITB Mustang )
Then you'll be prepared to ask specific questions.
I think you'll find that everybody is eager to help
Welcome and have fun
In addition to what's already been said, some quick short answers. To the above: no. Not anything you've mentioned here.
Furthermore, before you waste any time/money on that car... realize that the Mustang is rather an uncompetitive pig in ITB. Just understand that right now.
You really need to get to the track, hang out with racers, see what's going on out there and what you can afford/what looks fun, then decide the best way to get one of those cars (which is buy used).
IT, and in particular ITB, racing is an excellent place to start, and a lot of cheap fun. If you start off with a cheaper used reasonably-competitive car, it'll be a lot cheaper and more fun, and you can spend more time racing and less time fixing stuff that's broken or that you did wrong.
Oh, and finally - welcome!
Hoof Hearted
New member
The temptation to build a car was very strong when I finally decided to get a car... ...I like to "build" stuff but I'm also frugal. But when starting out and you put pencil to paper; add up the time & cost to build vs. buy, the buy option comes out on top of the podium. I bought a very inexpensive car that required plenty of tinker-time to get ready for racing. The money I saved went for driver gear, tires, tires, tires and track time.
There are many cars currently for sale here and elsewhere. These two examples, IMO are very good deals:
http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26872
http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28391
There are many cars currently for sale here and elsewhere. These two examples, IMO are very good deals:
http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26872
http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28391
erlrich
Super Moderator
Actually, if you want to get into serious engine mods (or even engine swaps), there is another class you should look at - Super Touring, specifically STU. In that class cams are open (up to specified lift), and you can run any engine from the same manufacturer up to 3.0L. Just keep in mind, while your car would probably not be very competitive in ITB, it will likely be a LOT less competitive in STU unless you really know your shit.
As everyone else has pointed out, you HAVE TO read the rules for the class (or classes) you're considering racing in. It is impossible to learn everything you need to know from this or any other forum. It would also be an excellent idea to read Dave's book (Go Ahead Take the Wheel - Greg posted a link to it)(and it's free btw), there is a wealth of information in it.
As far as buying a car v. building; yes, from a dollars & cents standpoint it makes more sense to buy a built car. It might also make more sense if you're not very mechanically adept (and assuming the guy who built the car you're buying is), but it is also a fact that a lot of us just don't have $4k - $8k laying around to invest in a starter car, and already have a donor car in the garage. I built my car, and save for the cage installation I would probably do it again given the chance. But just know two things going in: 1. you WILL spend more $ to build a car than you would to buy a similarly prepped car, and 2. it will require a shitload of time, much more than you think. If you're ok with those two things, and are confident in your mechanic skills, then by all means start building.
Matt93SE
New member
since I've just finished the same process as Earl above (ironically on another 240SX), I'll provide some short insight as to what it cost me to build the car...
Car itself: $1400 (ebay- blown engine.)
used OEM Engine: $250
Tires: $350 (used Toyo R888)
Roll cage: $3200 (very nice 6 pt cage by local race shop)
Race seat: $300
Fire system: $400
total: $5900
That's the ABSOLUTE CHEAPEST you can build a car unless you do the cage yourself.
Since you already have the car, you can knock off $1650 from that price, but you're still looking at $4500 or so to get your car on the track in its current condition.
you will still need another set of race tires, spare wheels, better brake pads, new rotors and brake lines, probably new calipers since the car is oooold. suspension? sky's the limit, even on an IT budget. Plan at least $1000 for a decent suspension.
All said and done, I have about $12,000 into a car that still has a 100,000mile factory engine in it with a header and intake. zero internal mods. I have a ton more done to it now (suspension, brakes, sway bars, etc) but it's still no faster than a well driven ITS car.
OR... You could take $4500 and go buy the Integra linked above and run side by side with my car. You'll have a MUCH faster and better handling car with a lot more go fast parts than if you were to build it yourself with new (or even used) parts.
Keep in mind you'll still need a racing suit, helmet, shoes, gloves, etc and a driving school. Add $2000 to the tab right there.
That will get you to your first race as a novice. the bill goes up from there.
Im' not trying to discourage you or be pessimistic about things, but I'm being realistic about racing. Road racing is NOT cheap- even in a "cheap" car. A full weekend at the track will cost about $750 by the time you pay for entry fees, fuel, transportation to/from the track, food, and the most basic of wear and tear on the tire- tires and brakes. And that's assuming you don't break anything or flatspot a tire.
Hope I didn't rain on your parade, but I don't want anyone to be disillusioned by "cheap" racing. Cheap is relative to all of us. What may be cheap racing compared to a STO or GT car is absurdly expensive to the young guy that thinks he's going to bring is daily driver/autocross out and road race.
Car itself: $1400 (ebay- blown engine.)
used OEM Engine: $250
Tires: $350 (used Toyo R888)
Roll cage: $3200 (very nice 6 pt cage by local race shop)
Race seat: $300
Fire system: $400
total: $5900
That's the ABSOLUTE CHEAPEST you can build a car unless you do the cage yourself.
Since you already have the car, you can knock off $1650 from that price, but you're still looking at $4500 or so to get your car on the track in its current condition.
you will still need another set of race tires, spare wheels, better brake pads, new rotors and brake lines, probably new calipers since the car is oooold. suspension? sky's the limit, even on an IT budget. Plan at least $1000 for a decent suspension.
All said and done, I have about $12,000 into a car that still has a 100,000mile factory engine in it with a header and intake. zero internal mods. I have a ton more done to it now (suspension, brakes, sway bars, etc) but it's still no faster than a well driven ITS car.
OR... You could take $4500 and go buy the Integra linked above and run side by side with my car. You'll have a MUCH faster and better handling car with a lot more go fast parts than if you were to build it yourself with new (or even used) parts.
Keep in mind you'll still need a racing suit, helmet, shoes, gloves, etc and a driving school. Add $2000 to the tab right there.
That will get you to your first race as a novice. the bill goes up from there.
Im' not trying to discourage you or be pessimistic about things, but I'm being realistic about racing. Road racing is NOT cheap- even in a "cheap" car. A full weekend at the track will cost about $750 by the time you pay for entry fees, fuel, transportation to/from the track, food, and the most basic of wear and tear on the tire- tires and brakes. And that's assuming you don't break anything or flatspot a tire.
Hope I didn't rain on your parade, but I don't want anyone to be disillusioned by "cheap" racing. Cheap is relative to all of us. What may be cheap racing compared to a STO or GT car is absurdly expensive to the young guy that thinks he's going to bring is daily driver/autocross out and road race.
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