Igniters

bcarter

bcarter

New member
I am having a weird problem with my autometer tach. Sometimes up around 8000 it starts behaving eratically, bouncing around. Also been told I have a bit of a miss at high rpm as well, but not always. Someone said it might be the igniters.

I have also been told they either work or they don't, no middle ground, OR I've been told they can fluctuate...Any thoughts

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G. Brooke Carter
Wheat Buckley Racing
# 10 Challenge Car
2004 Class Champion
Calgary, Alberta
brooke_rx7.jpg
 
Hey Guys.....someone must know something about these igniters?
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G. Brooke Carter
Wheat Buckley Racing
# 10 Challenge Car
2004 Class Champion
Calgary, Alberta
brooke_rx7.jpg
 
I've also heard that they either work or don't. However at that RPM it is possible you have some kind of harmonics issue that is creating an open in some portion of the ignition circuit. Evidenced by the tach going funny...All the connections on the coil good? Did you try replacing the coil?
 
Try moving your tach to the other coil, it'll work on either. That will tell you if you have a tach problem or an ignition problem.

If it's an ignition problem, try swapping the coils, they're interchangable.

If that doesn't fix the problem, get a set of new igniters at the junk yard and try that. Worst case is, you now have a spare set of igniters for the time one does fail.

If that doesn't fix it, find someone smarter than me to help. That shouldn't take long. ;-)

-chuck-
 
It *might* be a case of lean miss-fire. My car would get up to about 5K and then the shift light would start flashing at me... I messed with the fuel pressure and it got better... never did get it completely gone before blowing the motor.

Oh... and no ignitors.... MSD direct fire.

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Scott Rhea
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it

Izzy's Custom Cages
 
all good sugestions. also anytime i heard weird and electrical in the same sentence I double check all the ground connections.
dick
 
***Hey Guys.....someone must know something about these igniters?***

Brooke, I was going to stay out of this conversation because I have never tried a tester which I have a drawing of for igniters. The drawing shows a light bulb with a switch that would be turned "on" & "off" & I don't remember what a lit or
un-lit bulb means. A good guess would be if the bulb is lit the igniter is good. Anyway you use a 12 volt light bulb, a 12 volt car battery, the igniter, a switch & some wire.

Attach a wire to the negative terminal of the battery & to the ground on the back side of the igniter. Attach a wire from the "C" terminal at the top of the igniter to one terminal on the light bulb. Attach another wire from the other terminal of the light bulb to the positive terminal of the battery. Attach a wire from the "B" terminal at the top of the igniter to the positive of the battery. Attach a wire from the "S4" (outside terminal) terminal at the back side of the igniter to one terminal of the switch. Attach another wire from the other terminal of the switch to the positive terminal of the battery.

That is everything I know
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don't know
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about igniter testing.

Let me know how it works.

Have Fun
wink.gif

David


[This message has been edited by ddewhurst (edited May 20, 2005).]
 
Cool guys.

I have about 10 used ones rounded up...these babies are about $250.00 new..AAARRRGGGHHH !

We are on the chassis dyno next week, and I am just going to keep switching them out til the flutter goes away. I replaced plugs, coils, dist. cap and rotor, so there's not much left.

I'll let ya know.

B
 
Great, the drawing is easy to understand, and I'll try some of these ignitors. The ground in the car is all relatively new, and not stock in construction or location...

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G. Brooke Carter
Wheat Buckley Racing
# 10 Challenge Car
2004 Class Champion
Calgary, Alberta
brooke_rx7.jpg
 
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