Caster is, IMO, one of those highly theoretical things that, in the 1st gen, makes little performance difference. At least in the setting range I preferred.
As you increase camber, it will affect caster, and steering feel/self centering. (I'd have to look up/think hard to give your the mechanics of how/why that is)
Self centering steering is one of the joys of a rear drive car, and feel is a result. Steering feel will make 98% of us better drivers, because we will sense what the front tires are doing.
So, I adjusted my caster so that I liked how the car steered and felt.
yea, I know, not very scientific, but it seemed to work. Car was pretty quick that way.
So, my advice: knock the top of the struts back in the range of adjustment (assuming you have adjustable plates), but not all the way back (in the case of the Ground Control plates) but pretty close. The steering should build force as cornering forces build and then, when the tires begin to go past their maximum adhesion, the effort should become lighter...the tire is slipping. The steering wheel should unwind quickly when/if you were to let go of it when you are in a corner. Tweak the settign as needed.
Remember that all the settings are inter related, and adjusting caster will affect the others slightly. Adjusting camber will affect toe the most. Check your toe last.
(Another tip that saves time at the track. Measure the amount of change in toe that results from a 1/2 or full turn of the tie rod adjuster link. AND which direction causes the change. Write it down someplace. Wrap the adjuster with white tape and sharpie an arrow on it so you remember, and write the number down in your set up book. You have a set up book, right??)
