Jive,
I'd forget the scorpion, it might slide into 'B' if it was classified, but IMHO the 1800 is down on power.
Dave's 124 is an 1800 and seems to do OK.
Peter does have an ITB alfa that he bought. Seems to be a nicely prepped car. I know the alfa's can be made to go fast as well.
The 2 liter 124 is IMHO (maybe I'm partial) the car to have if you are into Italian. It will weigh in at 200 lbs less than the Alfa. Plus, it has EFI rather than the 1800's carb or the Alfa's spica (good but finiky)
Then you could also run a 1600 124 in ITC. This has lots of potential as the older 1600 124 coupe used to kick some butt around the US.
I have a 2liter that was built many years ago by John and Gary Baucom in Charlotte. If you don't know it, John has won 3 Runoffs in G(1458) and E(2000) production in Fiat spiders (now runs Trans-Am) . The car is exceptionally capable and has turned 1.58's at Kershaw with me driving my first time at the track. We recently took it to the ARRC and turned in a :51. Not stellar, but we had some issues with new tire/gearing (Hoosier only made their new tire in the 14" rim). I really do believe that the car can get into the :48's.
If you go the build route, I can save you some heartache with development. If you go the buy route, well my car happens to be for sale.
The Alfa milano that ran in SEDIV was also built by the Baucom's. John was driving it when it won. I have thought about building/buying one myself as, while I wasn't there, I have heard stories about the amount of straightaway speed that can be had from that engine.
As far as cost or reliability, both the 124 and Milano are very durable.. (Jeff, that Silver ITS car we are talking about.. the motor is 5 yrs old.) My last engine lasted 4 yrs before piston fatigue killed it. Also parts are cheap.. rotors $15-$18, rebuilt calipers $35, etc, etc.
The 124 has 2 weak links that can be solved with a donor car.
1) the shift fork and slider in the transmission (3/4th) wears and must be replaced annually. Carry a spare box.
2) The diff is weak and can break if you spin the car (welded or 1/4 locked).
Positives..
1) Large range of ring and pinion gears. 3.58, 3.9, 4.10, 4.4
2) Can run 13's or 14's (more gearing options)
3) Big strong bumpers
4) very low cg
5) Simple to work on
6) so low that you can really catch a good draft from the rabbit/omni corwd
7) Can easily make min weight
Negatives
1) a little heavy at 2330
2) solid front rotors (solve with ducts)
3) keeping the windscreen clear in a rain race.
[This message has been edited by eh_tony!!! (edited December 19, 2003).]