ITC Scirocco axle nuts

B

backformore

New member
I just want to make sure that I am understanding the advice I've been given.

The 30mm axle nuts should be tightened as tight as I can get them (breaker bar + Jack Handle), and then retightened every time I come off the track. Correct?

Thanks
 
Yeah, you have to tighten the stuffing out of them. I don't check them after every session, but it's a good Idea to put them on the list to check at the beginning of every weekend.
 
Thanks, that's the way I understood it. Basically, tighten them real good befoe you go on track and then tighten them real good again after you've run once and gotten everything hot.
 
There are 2 schools of thought regarding these axle nuts. 1 is to tighten the crap out of them, and the other is to tighten them to just a bit more than the factory specs.

I've run into issues that if you use the 3/4" breaker bar and pipe extension, and you get "bubba" to stand on the end of the pipe, that you do get a good axle nut fitment, but you can also crush the bearing. Been there, done that.

I use the process: standard 3/4" breaker bar and only use 1 foot, but not jump on it. Just make sure it's "really" tight". Of course, you also need to exchange both 1/2 shaft assemblies, and both front hubs every 6-8 races as a standard maintenance procedure with all VW's.

I swap out the old ones with the spares that I've been lugging to the track all year, and send the old ones out to get new bearings / seals installed, and have the 1/2 shaft's exchanged, and they become next year's "spares".

I've only had 1 CV failure while on track in over 10 years of racing. I also run a locked front diff, which puts more strain on these parts than an LSD or open diff.
 
I used to tighten the crap out of them too, but after stripping the threads on two outer CV's, I've backed off a little, just a little. By the way, stripped axle nuts are a royal pain to remove!

JimW
#74 Wraycer Wrabbit
 
Jim's right...stripped axle nuts are not fun...die grinder anyone?

Sometimes I think that maybe one could get a better result if when doing a reassembly (with fresh parts), the nut be tightened without having the wheel on the ground; have someone standing on the brake instead...

I also think that there is a proper Torque Spec that the factory developed for a reason...

Cheers.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Now let me ask, why do the nuts have to be so tight? Why not just use the factory torque spec?

Thanks
 
As stated before, the factory torque specs were developed (and are fine) for a STREET car. The hubs were never intended to see the kind of stresses that racing puts on them. The problem is, if it's not tight enough, it'll work itself loose in short order. It's just something that's been learned over the years w/ these cars (especially the Mk I chassis cars). Go look in Greg Raven's book from the late 80's, they talk about the problem back then, in racing applications.
 
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