ITR Prelude build thread

ekim952522000

New member
I love reading build threads and since I am building my new car I though I would start one.

I was going to build a Type R but felt like the Prelude was a better choice so right at the last minute before I was going to take the Type R to get the cage I changed my mind.

I just got home with the car about a hour ago after driving 8 hours round trip to go get it. So I will post more pictures as I start to do work to it.
 

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Whoo-hoo, can't wait! Let me know if I can help, I want to see you out on track!

Nice job finding white. I wish I'd been able to find white when I bought my Z3 to build.
 
That donor is too nice!

Can you sell the interior and stuff for a profit? I know, it's not ITB, the IT class with a guaranteed profit, LOL>
 
Man the interior was so nice in this car I kinda felt bad pulling it out. This took me about 8 hours today and I still have a ways to go to get it ready for the cage, I still have to pull up all of the tar mat. take out the A/C and take out the cruise control.
 

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Make sure you take anything and everything out that you possibly can. Our ITS Prelude weighs about 2600lbs with a 200lb driver (~50lbs over legal ITS weight), and I'm out of ideas on where to remove weight without sacrificing safety. There's a lot of weight under/inside the dashboard, and removing the entire ABS system will save a lot of weight too. The stock sunroof panel is heavy as hell. Replace it with a thin steel sheet.
 
Thanks Kevin that is the plan, I am planning on removing everything I legally can and then weighting and seeing where I am at, I am hoping I don't have to remove the undercoating to make weight. Right no I am about 215lbs So I need to go on a diet to0 =)
 
Ok so I picked up a engine tonight H22A1 and I was soooo Impressed I found a used honda engine that the TPS sensor was not broke....Well I broke the dam thing taking it out of the truck...

Oh and I discovered that Honda strategically placed the hood prop on the prelude so that you would catch it with your elbow and the hood would coming slamming down on your head....

Now I just need to find a transmission....
 

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Ok so today I finished taking out the tar mat (Dry Ice made very short work of it only took about 30 min) Plan is to finish up the interior tomorrow, then sunday take out the A/C and cruise control I've got to hurry it is scheduled to get the cage installed in about two weeks and I won't have time to work on it after this weekend.
 

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Here is two more pictures the last two "boring car being stripped ones" I will have until the cage is put in.

oh yeah and I have finally started ordering parts!
 

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Some teasers pics from the beginning of the cage build.

I am also ready to order springs but have no idea what length to get for a prelude?
 

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I have always been a fan of gettign your shocks in .. setting the car at your ride height.. measure the space between the top sring perch and the lower one.. in the middle of it's adjustment. With known approximate corner weight of the car.. you can determine the staic deflection of the car sitting still. Finally you can order a spring that will fit your needs and allow the most adjustment. I am sure there are easier ways to determine the free length of a spring to use.
 
mike - looks good.

make sure you pull the computer off the floor to make a spot for the 8th cage point. and don't tie the petty bar in there, please!

call ground control about the spring size - they have more data avaiable than anyone else I can think of.

oh - and TPS safety: when moving or installing engines, always unbolt the throttle body and place it somewhere safe, those things are fragile and love to break! you can notch the "rivets" with a cutoff tool and extract them with a screwdriver (they are break-off head screws) and replace with just about any other honda TPS of the same vintage - makes those CX civics in the junkyard worthwhile. helps to have a hondata computer or simillar where you can reprogram WOT/closed positions, though as they will change electrically.
 
oh - and TPS safety: when moving or installing engines, always unbolt the throttle body and place it somewhere safe, those things are fragile and love to break! you can notch the "rivets" with a cutoff tool and extract them with a screwdriver (they are break-off head screws) and replace with just about any other honda TPS of the same vintage - makes those CX civics in the junkyard worthwhile. helps to have a hondata computer or simillar where you can reprogram WOT/closed positions, though as they will change electrically.

Now, I'm not a Honda guy, but I don't understand. First, why would you want to change the throttle body, and second, why would that be legal in IT?
 
Now, I'm not a Honda guy, but I don't understand. First, why would you want to change the throttle body, and second, why would that be legal in IT?

Ja, I love it if we could change out for a Porsche AFM, they're both Bosch unit's after all :blink:
 
He's not talking about changing the whole throttle body, just the TPS. The TPS can get damaged pretty easily during an engine install, so it's not a real bad idea to remove it. But to remove it, you have to remove the entire throttle body since the TPS is "riveted" onto the backside of it. Once you've got it out, you can notch the "rivet" heads and spin them out, removing the TPS from the throttle body. Now replace those "rivets" with actual bolts, and you have the ability to swap out TPS's easily. Now you can use used TPS's from any Honda that's been removed in the same fashion. That's important because on many Honda's, you can't buy just the TPS, you have to buy the whole throttle body. Nothing illegal going on, just swapping fasteners. Same throttle body, same TPS.
 
thanks for translating into bosch for me, kevin.

Actually, if it's the TPS (as in sensor) that is free. It's the TB that's more sensitive, along with the AFM. We have choke points that we want to stay, beause that limits the ultimate power, which make the process as close as it is....
 
Actually, if it's the TPS (as in sensor) that is free. It's the TB that's more sensitive, along with the AFM. We have choke points that we want to stay, beause that limits the ultimate power, which make the process as close as it is....

all of this is understood, I would never advocate the swapping of TBs in IT or any other controlled class. sorry if I gave that impression.

the position of the TPS on the firewall side of the throttle body makes it prone to dameage by the rear cross member etc... when removing and installing motors, and is the rear-most part of the removed engine so not much protection then, either. to protect the TPS, the honda knowledgable pull the TB and set it asside for safety.

As the TBs are so frequently damaged, and the electrical calibrations affected when swapping sensors and using stock computers (WOT/closed signal changes do to small position or manufacturing tolerance changes), the swap of the TPS is not always the best solution - though one that is available when the damage has been done.

back to the prelude...
 
All sorts of cool stuff came today!
 

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I tried to get pictures of the adjusters on my new Schrotch enduro belts they are amazing! I have never seen any harnesses that adjust like them, they even come with a little loop already sewn in incase you want to use the surgical tubing to lift them out of the way during driver changes. They also have nice large hoops sewn in for tightening them very high quality.
 

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