Just bought a CRX.. need advise
- Thread starter Fleetcare
- Start date
Get yourself a copy of the GCR. It has everything (sort of) that you will need to know rules wise. There have also been some updates published in Fast Track in Sports Car. You will have to install a roll cage and other safety equipment. You are allowed to gut the interior almost completely. Exceptions include-you have to keep the stock dashboard and either the stock door panels or put .060" aluminum on them. You CANNOT remove anything from inside the passenger door. Windshield wipers (all 3) must be on the car and the squirters too. You must seal up the sunroof in one of 3 approved ways (I reskinned mine with a DX panel).
Wheels for a 2nd gen CRX are limited to 14x6. The car must weigh at least 2140 pounds on the official scales with fuel and driver.
I'm sure someone else has some thoughts on this.
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
Wheels for a 2nd gen CRX are limited to 14x6. The car must weigh at least 2140 pounds on the official scales with fuel and driver.
I'm sure someone else has some thoughts on this.
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
The car is stripped.. SOme pics @ http://216.227.34.77/racecar
GCR ? What is that ? the scca rule book or ?
But thanks for your help so far!
GCR ? What is that ? the scca rule book or ?
But thanks for your help so far!
(where have i seen these pics before? honda tech?)
GCR is the SCCA rulebook, general competition rules. you must get it. it spells out what you can and cant do. looks like theres nothing done to the car that permanently makes it out of IT yet.
actually max wheel size is 14x7, not 6.
GCR is the SCCA rulebook, general competition rules. you must get it. it spells out what you can and cant do. looks like theres nothing done to the car that permanently makes it out of IT yet.
actually max wheel size is 14x7, not 6.
You can put a nascar door bar on driver side only, thus allowing you to legally gut the driver door, only.
i really dont want to sound like a jerk, but please buy and read a GCR before asking anymore build questions.
[This message has been edited by Tyson (edited September 08, 2002).]
i really dont want to sound like a jerk, but please buy and read a GCR before asking anymore build questions.
[This message has been edited by Tyson (edited September 08, 2002).]
You are allowed to run NASCAR style door bars and, if you do, may remove the panel and gut the door - leaving the stock side impact beam/bar in place. The picky nature of some of these rules brings us back to the GCR. It can be ordered from SCCA - try www.scca.org for the phone number, or try contacting your region using the contact information from the "regional divisional locator" thingie on the SCCA site.
That does appear to be the ebay car. I thought it looked like a pretty good answer but there is a lot to be done there. Get the book, quit spending money on fun and family, and get to work!
Kirk
That does appear to be the ebay car. I thought it looked like a pretty good answer but there is a lot to be done there. Get the book, quit spending money on fun and family, and get to work!
Kirk
There are a LOT of things you can do - besides working a bunch of overtime to fatten up the bank account...
Disassemble and refresh all of the suspension and brake systems with new bits - CV joints & boots, rod ends, caliper seals, wheel cylinders, bearings, etc. You have to use stock pieces, so they can be purchased with confidence. Don't put anything back together until you have sourced your suspension components and don't buy anything there until you know the book.
Take care of bodywork issues, remove insulation goo, make sure any rust is mitigated, figure out which panels need to be painted - get that done and rub out those that don't.
Get a factory manual and read it. Figure out where all of those wires go!
Spend some time spooking around recycling yards to find missing bits and a replacement tail light assembly.
Work on a good deal for a new hood.
Get in touch with anyone in your region or division running an ITA Honda and volunteer to help out at the track, prepare the car, and so forth.
Find a certified Honda mechanic and weasel your way into his/her life. Ply with food and alcohol if necessary.
And finally, DO work those overtime hours. You are several thousand dollars from getting on the track and every little bit helps.
Have fun!
Kirk
Disassemble and refresh all of the suspension and brake systems with new bits - CV joints & boots, rod ends, caliper seals, wheel cylinders, bearings, etc. You have to use stock pieces, so they can be purchased with confidence. Don't put anything back together until you have sourced your suspension components and don't buy anything there until you know the book.
Take care of bodywork issues, remove insulation goo, make sure any rust is mitigated, figure out which panels need to be painted - get that done and rub out those that don't.
Get a factory manual and read it. Figure out where all of those wires go!
Spend some time spooking around recycling yards to find missing bits and a replacement tail light assembly.
Get in touch with anyone in your region or division running an ITA Honda and volunteer to help out at the track, prepare the car, and so forth.
Find a certified Honda mechanic and weasel your way into his/her life. Ply with food and alcohol if necessary.
And finally, DO work those overtime hours. You are several thousand dollars from getting on the track and every little bit helps.
Have fun!
Kirk
For those who want to reskin the roof-here is a short <G> explanation for my 89 CRX Si.
You will need to order the DX roof panel from your dealer. Also, order the left and right rubber moldings that fit in the channels-chances are real good they will be damaged taking them out after 14 years. Have the windshield taken out (it can be done without breaking it BTW). Remove the headliner assembly and any other trim that you do not plan on keeping in the car. Take ALL of the sunroof components out along with the roof mounted squirter (order a new one-trust me/the GCR requires that you reinstall it). Take the rear hatch off. If you do not want the radio antenna-now is the time to get it completely out as well. The rules permit you to remove the wiring and the dome light as well as the little panel attached to the rearview mirror. Keep all of the wiring until after the car completes Tech. (You are basically gutting the roof.)I took all ofthe cables and coiled them up in a baggie and stored them away for now. You are required to keep the hose for the squirter in the car-as I read the rules.
Take the car to your fabricator/body shop and have the roof cut off. There are a number of spot welds to be removed and then the panel can be cut away and replaced with the new one.
The DX roof skin assembly retails for $304 and can be had from a friendly parts department for much less. The moldings will set you back as will the squirter ($11). I replaced all of the washer hoses with .170 polyethylene tubing from Home Depot ($2.50).
The actual install of the replacement panel should be done by someone with a MIG welder. Also this is a great time to install that new roll cage. It is also very important that you have the car properly positioned so that there is no twist or distortion to the chassis. My fabrictor told me the panel is a stressed member and I believe him.
How much all this will cost I cannot say for sure, but the Mitchell book will give a fair value to the job. My shop uses it as a guide, but he does not have the overhead of the bigger places in my area-so he charges less overall.
I do not have any pictures of the actual process of removing the panel. I can say that he used a combination of the folowing tools: spot weld cutter, grinder, air chisel, air hacksaw. The install requires the usual set of body shop tools for putting a panel on.
I hope this is a good guide. The drawings in the Honda parts book will be useful to you-get them for the roof and pillars and headliner, etc. from the Parts Department. I do that every time I order a part.
You have questions-drop me an e-mail and I'll try to help out.
You will need to order the DX roof panel from your dealer. Also, order the left and right rubber moldings that fit in the channels-chances are real good they will be damaged taking them out after 14 years. Have the windshield taken out (it can be done without breaking it BTW). Remove the headliner assembly and any other trim that you do not plan on keeping in the car. Take ALL of the sunroof components out along with the roof mounted squirter (order a new one-trust me/the GCR requires that you reinstall it). Take the rear hatch off. If you do not want the radio antenna-now is the time to get it completely out as well. The rules permit you to remove the wiring and the dome light as well as the little panel attached to the rearview mirror. Keep all of the wiring until after the car completes Tech. (You are basically gutting the roof.)I took all ofthe cables and coiled them up in a baggie and stored them away for now. You are required to keep the hose for the squirter in the car-as I read the rules.
Take the car to your fabricator/body shop and have the roof cut off. There are a number of spot welds to be removed and then the panel can be cut away and replaced with the new one.
The DX roof skin assembly retails for $304 and can be had from a friendly parts department for much less. The moldings will set you back as will the squirter ($11). I replaced all of the washer hoses with .170 polyethylene tubing from Home Depot ($2.50).
The actual install of the replacement panel should be done by someone with a MIG welder. Also this is a great time to install that new roll cage. It is also very important that you have the car properly positioned so that there is no twist or distortion to the chassis. My fabrictor told me the panel is a stressed member and I believe him.
How much all this will cost I cannot say for sure, but the Mitchell book will give a fair value to the job. My shop uses it as a guide, but he does not have the overhead of the bigger places in my area-so he charges less overall.
I do not have any pictures of the actual process of removing the panel. I can say that he used a combination of the folowing tools: spot weld cutter, grinder, air chisel, air hacksaw. The install requires the usual set of body shop tools for putting a panel on.
I hope this is a good guide. The drawings in the Honda parts book will be useful to you-get them for the roof and pillars and headliner, etc. from the Parts Department. I do that every time I order a part.
You have questions-drop me an e-mail and I'll try to help out.
G
Guest
Guest
Jon, you made a good and really, the only choice for ITA. would have built on for myself if not my preferance for two-stroke race cars. get one of these CRX drivers to email you a few good pics of thier cage then take them to your local roundy round race car fab shop and get a price on putting a cage in your car, all will start out at $1500, thats when you say "well how much if you just do the four point or two main hoops of it and I put in all the strait tubes". when you say that, they realize your not stupid and wont be ripped off. most guys that build cages really enjoy what they do and putting the strait stuff into the cage after the main hoops are done is really fun. your should get it done for $750 tubing included because they really do want to build your cage. see guys, im not evil to honda drivers. just think the cars need a few more pounds in race trim. good luck and welcome to the club Jonathan.
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Daryl Brightwell
ITA Mazda #77
SFR, NORPAC
CSCC, SOPAC
[This message has been edited by 7'sRracing (edited September 15, 2002).]
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Daryl Brightwell
ITA Mazda #77
SFR, NORPAC
CSCC, SOPAC
[This message has been edited by 7'sRracing (edited September 15, 2002).]
My next project is to straighten the body panels and then Im going to spray the car with a new coat of paint. Not sure on the color yet ( hoping for blue + silver...)
After that I will get shocks and hopefuly do a track day in november...
And maybe sell the car somewhere around then... College in Ny + a race car probably wont work
One last question till i get my rule book.. Can i get a lightened flywheel ?
~Jonathan