Kill Switch

J

jc836

New member
Can anyone post a picture of where you have installed your Master Battery Disconnect. The GCR says it must be readily accesible.
 
Mine is mounted in the hole where my passenger side airbag used to be. I don't have a picture currently but as soon as I steal my digicam back from my father I will post up some pics of it.

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1995 Acura Integra GSR #24
SCCA ITS
NASA ECHC H3
 
killswitch.jpg
 
I think that a case can be made to locate it somewhere that the driver can get to it while belted in but it is still accessible from outside the car - like just inside the driver's side door window, on the dash board someplace...

Kirk
 
<font face=\"Verdana, Arial\" size=\"2\">I think it's supposed to be within driver reach, and accessible from outside the car.</font>
Click to expand...
I am not sure this is the case. I have seen plenty mounted outside the car. I certainly think inside is better but here is my logic:

If you can't unbuckle your harness then you have bigger problems besides not being able to reach your switch unless your harness is unbuckled.

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1995 Acura Integra GSR #24
SCCA ITS
NASA ECHC H3
 
Here's the section from the GCR 17.27:

"2.CLOSED SPORTS RACING CARS,PRODUCTION CARS,
IMPROVED TOURING AND GT CARS --In front of the windshieldon either the cowl or on top of the fender, but close enough to the windshield to be accessible if the car is overturned. Alternatively, it may be mounted below the center of the rear window or on a bracket welded,clamped or bolted to the roll cage or dash, easily accessible through the open window. (Drilling of holes in roll cage to attach the bracket is prohibited.)"

It doesn't say accessible by the driver, only accessible, and here, since it talks about it being outside, it clearly means accesible by corner workers or rescue folks.

Driver access is an added nicety, but not required.
 
Mine is installed directly on the firewall, right next to the battery.

Now you might ask yourself...self...how is this Shultz guy's killswitch accessible for a cornerworker if it's under the hood? Well, there is a pull cable running through the plastic trim (where the wiper arms are) and out to the bottom right corner of the windshield. Pull on cable, car shuts off and won't start.

I'll try and get some pictures of it this evening.
 
Karl's is extra pimpy. I like how his is set up. The only concern I would have with it is that the cable would probably be somewhat hard to find in a hurry if the car is upside down. I would wrap the cable with something bright red.

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1995 Acura Integra GSR #24
SCCA ITS
NASA ECHC H3
 
Thanks everyone for your input. My car is now at the chassis shop. If any of you can e-mail the pictures to me, it would be greatly appreciated as it will help us build the car correctly. My e-mail address is [email protected].

Thanks again
 
I have a BMW 2002 and if you'll allow me, I'll share my experience with this topic. I wanted to keep the battery cable runs short while making it easy to disconnect (meeting the requirements in the GCR). I ended up mounting the switch under the hood and used a SPA fire bottle 6' pull cable to actuate it. It comes with a red 'T' handle, the cable end hardware and it can be cut down to whatever length you need. The only downside is you have to remember to manually turn the switch on before closing the hood and buckling in. If my camera was working I could post a pic, maybe later. Pegasus Racing Supplies sells the 6' cable for $15.

Steve Leis
 
Good reminder - it used to be common practice with European rally cars to run one of these pull-cables from a master switch mounted outside, below the windscreen to the dashboard, so it could be turned by someone outside or pulled by the driver. The opposite would work as well. Don't forget to correctly label things with the sparky sticker.

K
 
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