Master Kill Switch

J

jc836

New member
I installed my kill switch using the Integra pull cord method. We ran the + lead from the battery to the switch and the starter and fuse box leads to the other side. I have a DPST switch and only used the 1 pole. Testing it I found that the car does not shut off when in the Run mode. What do I need to do with the spare contacts? What do you recommend.
Thanks

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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
 
You need to splice the alternator. the alternator makes enough power to run the car and charge the battery. I cut it from near the main fuse box end rather than near to the alternator. the proper way of wiring it also includes a shunt resistor across the pole, but not completely necessary.
 
I am assuming you mean the White wire (CRX Si) that is next to the battery wire in the fuse box. Will the switch handle the load? And-sorry if this is stupid, but a resistor where?
 
Thanks for the diagrams. My setup is currently wired like #1 as I have yet to decide which way to disconnect the alternator. The CRX uses several ways to do this I think-I can kill the entire ignition circuit at the keyswitch; run the alternator output to the aux contacts and risk welding them over time; find a way to break the Field circuit in the alternator; or possibly use the Charge indicator circuit.
I bought the switch from Longacre and they say that the switch Aux contacts are not designed to handle the output of the Alternator. My local Alternator shop says I can do any of the methods as far as the rotating device is concerned. A Honda mechanic has suggested that I disable the wire going itno the distributor, which cuts power to the module and coil. Suggestions please?

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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
 
Hi there, I cut and pasted this from an earlier thread in the tech topics section. Works like a charm, copied from #4 of the mcmunn site.

Yes, the diagrams are there, at least a link to them...
Although there is some valuable advice and info in that thread on the function and installation of the resistor (which you might not have, I ended up wiring my switch much like diagram #4 at the munn racing "secrets" site linked in the previous site.

This scheme has the benefit of being more simple to wire, does not require the resistor to either kill the ignition OR protect the alternator, AND it works.

I wired my car (1990 CRX Si) as such:

Remove the large white wire from the alternator (output wire) and from the main fuse panel in the engine compartment. You can remove this wire completly from the wiring harness if you wish, I did, in order to ensure that it did not splice or "t" to any other circuits. It didn't.

Remove the stock battery (+) cable that goes from the battery to the main fuse panel and to the starter. Disconnect all three connections. Again, discard, if you wish. I removed the crimp on battery terminal from this wire and re-used it.

Install a white wire (or any colour you wish) from the alternator to one side of the disconnect switch. I used #10 wire, 12 or 14 is probably fine.

To the same side of the disconnect switch, run a red wire from the positive battery terminal. I used #6 wire, #8 is likely OK, Honda starters don't require a lot of juice.

From the OTHER side of the disconnect switch, run another large red wire to the starter.

From the starter, run another short wire (#10 is likely fine, I used #6) to the main fuse panel and connect it to the left terminal. This terminal is fused through the 60a main fuse, the other one (now unused) is not fused through the main fuse.

That does it!

To summarize, both possible sources of power (battery and alternator) are disconnected and isolated from the rest of the car through the switch. Any consumer of power, including alternator excitation, fuel pump, ignition, etc. is completely cut off by the switch.

Also, there is a path for the alternator current to flow to (momentarily) when you activate (move to OFF position) the switch, through the battery, which protects the alternator diodes.

I think that's it...

Jon
 
Based on Jon's post...a regular cut-off switch can be used (the cut-off switch without alternator protection)? Is the main difference the fact that the alt protection switch has another set of contacts and a 3ohm resistor that comes with it? So in essence a switch with alt protection would be wired like #2....right?
 
Thank you Jon for you reply. I spoke with Mr. Krause (of K&E)and he informed me that they did the Integra setup by using the 2 large terminals as a Battery specific disconnect and the 2 small terminals are used to disconnect the White/Black stripe lead from the 50 amp fuse to the Ignition switch. This solution removes power from the ECU, pumps, relays, etc. thus causing the engine to shut down. No resistor required. Or do as the alternator shop suggested-run the B+ lead to the auxillary switch pair and into the Fuse panel.
I also spoke with Longacre and they were concerned about contact welding on the small pair. This seems to be an issue regardless of wiring method used and the general consensus is that one should have a spare switch in the parts bin at the track. (Longacre provides a diagram showing that one is to open to field circuit on the alternator, which would be a lower power method as well.) Your solution is also very good.
Thanks for the wire size info as I have been trying to find heavier gauge wire and connectors-now I will just use #10 gauge.


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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
 
An inexpensive source of heavy gauge wire can be found in a cheap set of jumper cables like you might find at Walmart or equivelant.
 
A thank you to those who replied and helped me get this done. The car now shuts off as it should. Power for the Ignition switch is on the 50 amp fuse and that is the circuit I decided to switch. It is also important, to me, to work on the output side of a protected line. I checked the wire size as best I could and it appears to be #10 and that is what I used for the switch feeds. I will carry a spare disconnect as many folks have indicated that they do fail with time.

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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion

[This message has been edited by jc836 (edited October 06, 2002).]
 
Originally posted by jc836:
A thank you to those who replied and helped me get this done. The car now shuts off as it should. Power for the Ignition switch is on the 50 amp fuse and that is the circuit I decided to switch. It is also important, to me, to work on the output side of a protected line. I checked the wire size as best I could and it appears to be #10 and that is what I used for the switch feeds. I will carry a spare disconnect as many folks have indicated that they do fail with time.
Click to expand...

Since you wired it without the 3ohm resistor, can a "standard" master switch be purchased? (the one's without alt protection).
 
After much thought and no intention of using a "bleeder" resistor. I had the Longacre 2 pole switch installed on a bracket above the purge canister. The battery cable goes to one side of the large switch and the output feeds both the starter (heavy cable) and the fuse panel. There are 3 terminals on the other side of the fuse panel. I took the lead that is White w/black stripe and ran it to the second set of switch contacts, using a short #10 jumper. The other side of that part of the switch is wired to the middle terminal , which is the 50 amp fuse output that was feeding the Wh/bk stripe wire. As I noted elsewhere, this method removes all power from the car almost instantly. The downside is that you are controlling a lot of current on the second pair of contacts. Hope this explains it.

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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
 
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