Mk2 ITB Newbie Build Questions

M

mike.rodriguez

New member
I'm going to put all my questions in one thread to keep the forum less cluttered. :p

First question (well...my other wheel thread was really the first question)

Can I remove the lateral OEM seat mounting "tunnel" from the passenger side? I need to remove it because this car will be built to both ITB and Rally America specs so I want to get the co-driver seat as far back/low as possible.

6612596609_28c96d513f_z.jpg


Second question

Can I remove the rear seat frame from the car?

6612589487_e0e850fd23_z.jpg

VW guys will know what part I'm talking about from this pic. (I know I need to relocate the battery back into the engine compartment. :023: )

I didn't see anything in the rules saying it's forbidden but typically if it's not stated, I can't do it to be "legal"...gathered from my autocross days.
 
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Question #1--No. Driver side OK; Pass side a no no.

Question #2--Only if it gets in the way of installing the cage's main hoop.

Any time you are looking to remove stuff that is spot welded to the unibody, be cautious. You need a good reason to do so--usualy because of a required safety mod. Dual purpose car is not a good reason for the pass seat mods.
 
Yup. Technically, you've already whittled off too much, with the passenger side front slider thingamajig knocked off...

K
 
Sorry - yeah. I stand corrected Looking back now, i can't remember if we took that one off of mine but that's right. I know we put in a new cross brace - the floor was rusted - but can't say for sure on the bracket...

K
 
how far does the plate extend to the front side of the shock tower? the plates we cut out aren't that large. might have to cut out new ones.
 
Use the 144 square inch rule. Extend them as much as that rule allows. Measure all the planes.

Effectively, you can land up with a substantial amount of coverage (and welding).
 
joeg said:
Use the 144 square inch rule. Extend them as much as that rule allows. Measure all the planes.

Effectively, you can land up with a substantial amount of coverage (and welding).
Click to expand...
I re-read the rule book and I saw both 144 and 100 sq inch rule mentioned. I'll go with the 144 rule but my cage builder (Matt Bushore - Bent Mettle Racing) says we won't need to go that big and the ones we cut out already will be just fine.

BTW - Matt says "hello" JoeG. :023:
 
Point being, the additional size gives you the opportunity to make your welds coincidental to existing seams, run them over door sills, etc. to put more strength in locations that might benefit...

K
 
Knestis said:
Point being, the additional size gives you the opportunity to make your welds coincidental to existing seams, run them over door sills, etc. to put more strength in locations that might benefit...

K
Click to expand...
Yup...that's what we intend to do. :023:

I still find it silly that we can connect the cage to the front struts but them's the rules I guess.
 
Keep in mind that any tubing behind the driver box slows you down. Adding weight above the floor just raises the CG and lifts the inside front tire.
The rear shock towers' load is only very lightly vertical.
The cross shock strut bar will not make the driver safer,it will increase the side impact G forces , instead of crushing the rear shock tower. Also, it will destroy the car in a rear wheel hit, by bending the entire rear of the car, not one strut tower. ( as no cross bar will do).
FWDrace cars benefit from controlling the front structure movement. while the rear end works best by have some suspension flex.
Dynamic rear toe steer allows the rear tire to toe out under lateral loading. This unloads the outer front tire. ( dynamic front tire loading limits turn speed and over all lateral grip potential.)
By allowing the rear tire track well outside of the front, you can simply go faster.

More tubing is not always better. IMHo. results based on data, mine and others.
I have 4 Mk2, and 1 Mk 1 race cars now, My book data was all collected on Mk 2 cars.
MM
 
In my particular case, I am building the cage to meet both SCCA and Rally America rules so the tubing is much larger than required for pure road racing. I don't mind one bit because it's my first season of racing. :023:
 
Run your oil filter part # thru google and look for the thread spec. It is common but Idont know it right off.
The stock housing has enough holes for both.

I run neither, just good syn oil and fresh rod bearings.
MM
 
i went off the top of the tank in the back. put a t in the line, one continuing on and one going to the port.

we drilled out a hole to mount it in the cover inside the car.

james
 
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