Muffler Help!

JLawton

JLawton

New member
I am signed up for two PDA events this spring. Unfortunately they are very restrictive on the sound limits. No problem I thought, I'll just go get a stock muffler and bolt it right in!! WRONG!! I can't find a non performance muffler that will fit!! 19" over all, 3" ID/OD.......... Anything with a 3" pipe (truck) is much longer.

I'm only going to be using this set up twice and it's just to get used to the new car (so I don't care if I lose some power) so I don't want to build a whole new exhuast....

Any ideas??
 
Magnaflow has an 18" racing muffler with 3" inlet/outlet. Part number is 14249 (Summit Racing number is MPE-14249) These are 5" x 8" oval. Dynomax lists an oval 19" with an offset 3" inlet, center 3" outlet outlet. Summit part number WLK-17221. Borlas has one but it's a bit pricy ($240), part number 40670

I use a 6" round Magnaflow and am very happy with the noise reduction and quality. According to the dyno, a straight pipe, a Dynomax, and the Magnaflow are all about equal, slight edge maybe to the Magnaflow (wasn't repeatable). The Magnaflow was noticably quieter than the Dynomax.
 
Jeff,
You heard my car last season (loud). That was a dynomax. Not quiet enough for LRP muffled days. Make sure you get the right dynamax. They're not all the same.

R
 
If you can extend the pipe to clear all body work a Supertrapp diffuser setup works great to quiet down the car and should be easy to add and remove.
 
Magnaflow has an 18" racing muffler with 3" inlet/outlet. Part number is 14249 (Summit Racing number is MPE-14249) These are 5" x 8" oval. Dynomax lists an oval 19" with an offset 3" inlet, center 3" outlet outlet. Summit part number WLK-17221. Borlas has one but it's a bit pricy ($240), part number 40670

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I don't think any performance type muffler is going to do the job unfortunately........ :(
 
Get a 3" Cherry Bomb, Thrush, Purple Hornies etc. straight through glass pack.

Now you say its too long. Yes I would agree. However, since they are a simple tube w/ insulation, then another tube inside that, get out a saw, cut it in half, then cut again to remove the necessary length, weld the outer tube back together. Not sure what the dB difference you will get, but it is cheap. You can also weld a super trap baffle on it, then bolt additional baffles & a cap onto w/o having to buy a $$upertrap.

Option two would be to build a muffler w/ a 3"x whatever adapter welded on the end, then just flange it onto what ever you've got to work w/ on the car. You did say this was a temporary item.
 
I don't think any performance type muffler is going to do the job unfortunately........ :(
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Actually, if you have a large enough muffler(s) it will be quiet enough. In some instances (pipe sizes, rpm range), a performance muffler can be quieter than a "stock" muffler without costing HP. Try to package a muffler(s) that has about 5x the volume of your engine. Use a muffler with a packing material as opposed to something with just baffles. If you are only thinking of bullet-style performance mufflers, I can just about guarantee it won't be quiet enough. Some people find where the exhaust exits the vehicle to have a significant effect on sound level (under the vehicle, behind the vehicle). If you know where the sound station is, at a minimum, direct your exhaust away from it.
 
given this is a temporary installation why no just put an elbow on the existing outlet and run an additional muffleracross the back of the car from a bracket under the rear bumper. could be handy in the future when you want to load the car late at night without upseting the neighbors.
 
I don't think any performance type muffler is going to do the job unfortunately........ :(
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What are the sound limitations? I had a Thermal Research can on my car with nothing else (header straight to it exit in stock location) and my DB was always under 90...my friends always said it was too quiet as they could not hear me on the track, but that may be because there were so many loud ones out there...
 
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