Newbie building 1st gen......

G

GS10GA

New member
Hi all! I look forward to getting to know everyone here!

I have a 84 model GSL that we have stripped to the rolling body,( god that sound crap on the floor was a bitch!), and I need help! The group of guys I have working on it with me actually got the car, and I'm just managing the build. The main guy who is sponsoring the effort has named me as the driver, like I'm disappointed....

So far we have it ready for the rust repair, which is at the base of the strut towers, the rear wheel wells, and where the floor pans meet the fire wall. The 12a hasn't run in about 4 years (we are getting a different one) and the wireing is a nightmare (it's oem but still, who designed that stuff?). The car was free, and the space to work on it is free, although its an hour away and I can only work on it on sundays.

I need some help with the car. So if you don't mind me asking questions I have a ton, but will start with a few.

1. does anybody make a simple harness for the engine,that reduces all the crap in the engine bay?

2. Do I need to have the lights hooked up?

3. Can I remove the window frames off both doors and trim the areas they use to fill on the body with sheet metal to open it up more?

4. Should I try and get a 2Gen and try to run ITS?




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To race, or not to race? Is that really a question?
 
OK, I'll take a crack at four answers and one comment...

First, welcome to the madness!

Second, all racing is rules governed, and the results are often predetermined (In some sanctioning bodies more than others) by those rules.....so......

#0 (Before step one!) Get a rulebook! Call the folks in Kansas and get it post haste!!! Then read it, top to bottom, and you will have a much better understanding of whats up and whats down. Until then, just get the body straight and don't torch anything!

....that said, on to your questions:

#1-No-you shouldn't remove the stock harness. Just celan and neaten it up, and as you can remove certain items that it is connected to, just tie it back neatly. Don't cut it, it's technically illegal.

#2-You need to have the lights and the motors, and having them work (up/down, on/off) is a great way to prove that they are there when tech takes you to impound and says "All cars with hidden headlights, pop 'em up!". That happens all the time around these parts.

#3- No. The passenger window and frame and all that stuff must stay in place. They will insist that it be down for any track sessions. Mine is electric and it's nice to be able to roll it up during a rainstorm. The drivers window and all it's associated regulators inside the door may be removed IF you install a cage that has "nascar bars". But the exterior fram must stay. See the rulebook for the actual definition of "Nascar bars". I recommend you go that route, as it gets rid of a bunch of weight thats in the wrong place on that car, AND it's safer.

#4- Well, that depends. The second gens are a couple seconds a lap faster, but are more involved to build. And they will run more money to build as well. (The old racing rule about speed equalling dollars is always appropriate!) They are near the front of the pack, but they will lose if a good E36 shows up, all things being equal. The first gens days are numbered as they are down in horspower and over weight compared to many Honda ITA cars. If the Comp Board goes ahead with Competition adjustments as they are talking about, all that may change. The first gen makes a great starter car.

Now, one last thought. Even though your donor car is free, it will be difficult for the budget to end up being less than if you just went out and bought an existing ITA RX-7.

Surf the site for posts regarding all the comments I've made, there is a ton of info here, but it will take awhile to get to it, as the search engine has a thrown rod!

Good luck!

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
 
1) No
2) No
3) No
4) That's entirely up to you.

Do you have a GCR(rule book)? If not, get one.
1) All the main wire harnesses are supposed to stay in the car.
2) Don't need the lights to work but they need to stay in the car.
3) Cannot cut off the window frames as they need to stay on the car.
4) You will have fun in either class with either car. The 1st gen will cost you significantly less to build and will make you a better driver. Tough car to get the hang of.
Welcome to the board man
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Great advise and help is always available from the folks here.
Ray
 
on the harness as my esteemed coleages have said you have to keep it but you don't have to use it, the systems you really need are pretty easy to make up from scratch. ignition, starting, charging, fuel pump, brake lights, wipers (high only)plus maybe transponder, cooling fan and defroster(high only)
dick
 
Sweet, thanks for the help! I really don't know if I should tell you this considering most round trackers pick on road racers, but I use to be the lead mechanic on an ARCA team, so I have had some experiance with racecars. The reason I left, well I got tired of putting in 4-5 hrs a night on the car after work just to watch it get totalled by the driver owner, figured I can do better at keeping the car in one piece before the race.



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To race, or not to race? Is that really a question?
 
Welcome to the madness!

Look around for a GSL donor car for a 12a and spare disk rear (unless you don't have one already) and other spares. You may luck out and find a tub in better shape. The rust on the strut towers and firewall is a little concerning. Check for major cancer where the upper rear control arms bolt up.

We were in the same boat as you on the wiring. Ours was cut all to heck but all still there. We just ran our own with fuse blocks we bought at Radio Shack mounted on the pass. side so they're easier to get to. This was much easier than trying to track everything down with all of those relays. We did use the stock rear harness for the lights and hatch/trunk release.

If you need a cage built, give us a call
wink.gif



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Scott
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it

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E-mail me for deals on
Lightweight Replica Blocks!
 
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