Oil cooler setups

paulydee

paulydee

New member
All you ITS guys out there, if you are willing, could you please share what oil cooler setup you are using? I am running a single stock cooler and am in the process of experimenting with a ducting setup. I have yet to see LESS than 260degrees on track regarless of ambient temps. I am trying to find a better solution.

------------------
Paul D'Angelo
73 ITS CENDIV
Indy Region
www.iridiumracing.com
 
Two relatively simple things to try.
1st,If you arn't already doing so, switch to a 40-50 wt. Redline synthetic race oil. You may see a drop from just the oil for a # of reasons(see Redline). If the temp stays up at least you know the oil is more than up to it! 2nd, try a spoiler that directs more air to and through the cooler.
B
 
Paul,

I am configuring my set up right now and it looks like it will consist of:

Howe Racing 26x19 Alum Radiator
Fluidyne Oil/Water Heat Exchanger PN 30504
Stock oil cooler w/ AN adapters welded on

I am still out on whether to run the coolers in series or in parallel. Most people say to run them in parallel to reduce the pressure drop, but no one that I have talked to that are running them in series have complained of any oil pressure issues.

Make certain that the bottom of the cooler is sealed to the under engine cover, and be absolutely certain to keep the nose pressurized by sealing off the radiator as best you can.

The on-track performance evaluation on my car will have to wait, however this is a relatively common setup here in SEDiv.

------------------
Chris Wire
Team Wire Racing
ITS Mazda RX7 #35
[email protected]
 
Just curious Chris, why you planning on welding on the -AN fittings? Why not just thread them in?

Chris

------------------
Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
Originally posted by C. Ludwig:
Just curious Chris, why you planning on welding on the -AN fittings? Why not just thread them in?
Click to expand...

The stock oil cooler uses the metric banjo fittings, which would require metric o-ring style AN adapters to convert to AN lines. With the boosted oil pressures, I simply don't trust the o-ring fittings to hold like a proper NPT fitting. So I use weld-on bungs to convert to AN. Did a friends ITGT Mustang like this and it works/looks great.



------------------
Chris Wire
Team Wire Racing
ITS Mazda RX7 #35
[email protected]
 
What are you using on the motor? I must admit I have atleast two of those fittings leaking.

Chris

------------------
Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
Mazdatrix sells adapters for engine to AN fittings for both the engine and the oil cooler. I use both, no leaks and fit well.
I think 80% of keeping your oil cool is to have the correct radiator.
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">What are you using on the motor?</font>
Click to expand...

Motor, what motor? I don't need no stinking motor! (yet...)
wink.gif


I have yet to work that out, as the Fluidyne has -12 fittings and Mazdatrix' adapters are for -10 hoses. I will likely source out a quality alum. adapter from Aeroquip/Earls/XRP, seal it properly and hope for the best.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">I think 80% of keeping your oil cool is to have the correct radiator. </font>
Click to expand...

In NEDiv, that may be true. However, in Florida, you won't get a motor to last a 90 min. ECR without additional cooling for the oil system. Not only will it aid temps, but it adds volume to the oil system capacity. I have seen twin stock coolers, twin Porsche 996 oil coolers, oil cooler in radiator w/ additional stock cooler, and more. I don't recall anyone ever getting by with just the stock cooler.

Guys with limited oil cooling can get by on the water temps (usually 210 or less) but the oil temps go through the roof, while engine life goes through the floor!

------------------
Chris Wire
Team Wire Racing
ITS Mazda RX7 #35
[email protected]
 
I have a dual oil cooler system on my RX, I went to a local hydraulic hose company. They had all the fittings and teflon coated, steel braided lines I needed for the plumbing. They even had the metric to AN adaptors. I replumbed everyhing, got rid of all factory lines. The fittings were the expensive part of the excersise, but total cost was about $150 CAN (approx $100US).

No welded fittings, no leaks, check fittings occasionally, but never found anything less that original tightening.

About half the price of going to Racing Beat or some of the other companies.

Make sure you specify the teflon lined hose. The temperature the non-teflon hoses can take is only about 240 deg F. I beleive they told me the teflon lined was good for 320 deg F. But be cautious about too sharp of bends with the teflon lined hoses...if kinked, the teflon will crack.

To be honest, I can't remember whether I installed in series or parrellal, but I teed the discharge line at the block. This basically doubles the volume where the oil can flow, while dropping the velocity in half while going through the coolers. The oil now has more time in the cooler to drop oil temp before having to be teed up and returning to the block. I noticed about a 30 deg. drop in oil temp (down to 240 F on the 90 F day), and I just realized I don't even have the factory tray that seals bottom of rad to crossmember. This should help further reduce my oil and water temps.

Have fun.

------------------
Allen Brown
#36 IT1
[email protected]
 
As I saw a stock AC condensor sitting on my garage floor, I wondered if it could be used as an oil cooler. Anybody have any experience? What pressure is the AC system?
 
Someone willing to add a few more details about the dual oil cooler arrangement?

What is the physical arrangement of the two coolers (where are they each mounted)?

Does the stock oil pump/pressure regulator provide sufficient pressure? What pressure do you see with the 2 cooler install?

What is enough oil pressure? What is too little?

Allen Brown, do you recall what size the metric fittings are on the engine and coolers?

Thanks for the info. This is the kind of exchange that makes this site so valuable.

Rory
 
I found a very simple way to mount the second cooler. It basically bolts to the stock mount in front of and lower than the stock cooler. The only thing is you'll need some kind of air dam and some custom ducting to cover it for protection and to make air flow right so that everything works. I run the coolers in parallel. Just use two -AN Ts. As far as pressure I run the high pressure regulator. Saw 120psi with the single cooler and about 110 with two so figure a 10psi drop. I wouldn't run two without adding the high pressure regulator.

Chris

------------------
Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
Rory,

If I remember correctly, one of the fittings was 19mm, and the second was 17mm.

There was adaptors going to AN 8 and 10. I believe the original oil lines were 13mm.

You can confirm this by looking at the Racing Beat website.

I run a 3/4 height rad with factory cooler below, and the second aftermarket cooler is about 3 or 4" in front of rad and factory cooler, going diagonal from upper passenger side to lower driver side. This orientation was determined more by location of oil lines leaving 2nd oil cooler and trying to find a opening I could run the new lines w/o making any additional holes. (I'm running a 85 GSL-SE)

I hope this helps somewhat.

------------------
Allen Brown
#36 IT1
[email protected]
 
Rory, sorry I didn't answer the question very well.

Engine block: 17mm and 19mm
Factory cooler: I believe 13mm, but I'm not too sure on this one.
2nd Cooler: it was AN8.
The hoses are AN 8 fittings on the ends.

My only regret was that I installed AN 8 instead of AN 10. More oil volume with the AN10, thus less pressure loss. My pressure loss was about 15psi (w/high press. reg.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top