Oil Wt s & Brands?

tdw6974

tdw6974

New member
Have been using Mobil 1 15-50 Extended Performance. Seems like the available weights have been reduced/no longer available. Castrol Sytec seems to have more options for wt 10-40. Mobil seems to be now limited to 10-30 5-30 Now Castrol has the "edge" now available?
 
tdw6974 said:
Have been using Mobil 1 15-50 Extended Performance. Seems like the available weights have been reduced/no longer available. Castrol Sytec seems to have more options for wt 10-40. Mobil seems to be now limited to 10-30 5-30 Now Castrol has the "edge" now available?
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Tom...you didn't say if it was for a race car or your truck. I'm trying a new 10w-40 syn oil(SYNMAX) in my 98 cup car. Seems like some engineers went and looked at the properties of all the good racing oils and formulated their own. It's about the same cost as Royal Purple, a little more than Redline,less than Mobil One racing oil and way less than Joe Gibbs. All these oils have far more ZDDP(zinc) and other additives that are removed from street oil because they eat the cat. converters. Flat tappet engines(such as small block chevys,fords,etc love the ZDDP.

You could also try Brad Penn(which is the old Kendall(sp?) GT green oil which is the only Pennsylvania crude still being pumped and is green(natural) in color.:024:
 
BruceG said:
Tom...you didn't say if it was for a race car or your truck. I'm trying a new 10w-40 syn oil(SYNMAX) in my 98 cup car. Seems like some engineers went and looked at the properties of all the good racing oils and formulated their own. It's about the same cost as Royal Purple, a little more than Redline,less than Mobil One racing oil and way less than Joe Gibbs. All these oils have far more ZDDP(zinc) and other additives that are removed from street oil because they eat the cat. converters. Flat tappet engines(such as small block chevys,fords,etc love the ZDDP.

You could also try Brad Penn(which is the old Kendall(sp?) GT green oil which is the only Pennsylvania crude still being pumped and is green(natural) in color.:024:
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Bruce, Truck Gets Rotella (no question on that) so looking for the Mazda Racer Internal Inspection revealed we might need a 5 or 10 weight to get to flow quicker to bearings then 40 or 50 on upper end. Used the Kendall GT for many years when they were Major Sponsor at Watkins Glen. working tech we had inside with the dealer and we got the GT-1 for nearly free! Because of the temps run by the Rotary use the Syntheic . T
 
No expert here, but I've used Mobil 1 10W30 in the ITS RX-7 for about 5 years. Should run cooler than higher weight and maintains good oil pressure. Haven't had the engine apart so I don't know what the internals look like, but no observable problems yet.
 
tdw6974 said:
Bruce, Truck Gets Rotella (no question on that) so looking for the Mazda Racer Internal Inspection revealed we might need a 5 or 10 weight to get to flow quicker to bearings then 40 or 50 on upper end. Used the Kendall GT for many years when they were Major Sponsor at Watkins Glen. working tech we had inside with the dealer and we got the GT-1 for nearly free! Because of the temps run by the Rotary use the Syntheic . T[/QUOTE

]

Tom...perhaps try the Brad Penn since it's like the Kendall.
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I am curious as to how long you guys go between oil changed? We, myself and an E Prod driver, change oil every 8 heat cycles.

We have always used 20w/50 mineral or 15w/50 synthetic wt oils from Valvoline and Mobil 1. Both seem to be fine in terms of heat and pressure. On recomendations from several engine builders - Tony Riveria, Jesse Prather - we don't use low viscosity oils.

Regarding increased ZDDP levels, I can certainly see the value for an oil the contains zinc in a solid lifter piston engine. I wonder if there would be the same concern/value in a rotary engine. I can't really think of a bearing surface in a rotary that is similar to what you have with a lifter and a cam lobe. Where do you guys see the value in ZDDP??
 
mustanghammer said:
I am curious as to how long you guys go between oil changed? We, myself and an E Prod driver, change oil every 8 heat cycles.

We have always used 20w/50 mineral or 15w/50 synthetic wt oils from Valvoline and Mobil 1. Both seem to be fine in terms of heat and pressure. On recomendations from several engine builders - Tony Riveria, Jesse Prather - we don't use low viscosity oils.

Regarding increased ZDDP levels, I can certainly see the value for an oil the contains zinc in a solid lifter piston engine. I wonder if there would be the same concern/value in a rotary engine. I can't really think of a bearing surface in a rotary that is similar to what you have with a lifter and a cam lobe. Where do you guys see the value in ZDDP??
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Scott...I ran the syn. oil specially made for RX7's last season. The name is Idemitsu and it's the same Japanese brand that helped Mazda win their class at LeMans in the 90's. Made for rotaries and you can by it online from Mazdatrix.
 
mustanghammer said:
We have always used 20w/50 mineral or 15w/50 synthetic wt oils from Valvoline and Mobil 1. Both seem to be fine in terms of heat and pressure. On recomendations from several engine builders - Tony Riveria, Jesse Prather - we don't use low viscosity oils.
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Do you know why they make that recommendation?
 
Using Valvoline 20/50 regular oil in our POS-7. Watching this with interest how many of you are using synthetics. We change every weekend with two of us running the car.
 
I am running the Valvoline VR1 race oil, 20w-50, in my rx7. Guy who had it before me ran Castrol GTX, but I got some recomendations to switch to the valvoline from some other racers. I change it every other race weekend.
 
We probably will go to the 10-30 Mobil 1 Extended performance. Our Engine rebuilder recommended the lower viscosity to get oil to the Bearings more quickly on start up. We did get 5 years on this engine(same as Marty on His engine) We used to Change every other Race weekend but then when we started running the Pro-it weekends with 30 minute practice and 45 Minute race. Plus we try to run regional if on same weekend we went to changing every weekend. Always some oil remains in cooler and lines. use the Idemitsu for our premix. Need to find an East coast source for Idemitsu to cut coast of shipping :D. Our Engine on tear down showed wear but not certain that may have been there when we got the car.
 
rx761 said:
I am running the Valvoline VR1 race oil, 20w-50, in my rx7. I change it every other race weekend.
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+ 1.

tdw6974 said:
Our Engine rebuilder recommended the lower viscosity to get oil to the Bearings more quickly on start up.
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Consider an Accusump with manual valve. Mine releases 3qts at 80PSI (or wherever you close the valve at) into the system before start up every time. I assume you are also using the MFR bearings.
 
Eagle7 said:
Do you know why they make that recommendation?
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The bearing surfaces in a rotary engine are very large and in order to maintain a good oil film they recommended thicker viscosity oil. As far as longevity is concerned my Prather IT7 engine lasted for 7 years using Amsoil and or Mobil 1 20/50. It died when an oil cooler line failed...was running real good that day too:( So, as far as synthetic oil is concerned, we have seen no problems with it. We also do not have functioning oil injection on any of our engines - we use 2 cycle oil and premix 100 to 1.

For sure, the best way to fight a dry start is to install an accumsump. My engine will have one in my STU car. In addition to having the bearings lubed at startup an accusump will prevent oil starvation on the race track. I installed an oil pressure light (yeah after I lost an oil line) and on occassion it flickers after abrupt manuvers.....like turn 5 at Gateway. All that said, I have yet to pull apart a dead street engine that had bad bearings. The housing were trashed but the E-Shaft and stationary gear bearings were fine.
 
Hoping to revisit this. I am finally running out of the oil that I received from a sponsor a couple years ago and looking to start buying again. It's Amsoil 10-40 racing I believe (I don't have it in front of me). Doesn't look like they make it anymore.

Tom, how did the change workout?

I don't see anyone mentioning the zero weight...

Comments?
 
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team-gpracing said:
Hoping to revisit this. I am finally running out of the oil that I received from a sponsor a couple years ago and looking to start buying again. It's Amsoil 10-40 racing I believe (I don't have it in front of me). Doesn't look like they make it anymore.

Tom, how did the change workout?

I don't see anyone mentioning the zero weight...

Comments?
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Well We made several changes (different engine builder) So we use Idemitsu racing oil http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/ We will use the 10-30 for winter storage then go to 20-50 for race season. Of course when changing weights you can't get all out so we phase in went to 20-50memorial day weekend at Watkins Glen. Of course test day on Friday we had Snow Sleet and Rain!! Then We did change oil again before July Sprints (but were unable to run) Then just ran at Pitt International Temps not too High(outdoor) and Stable water temps and oil temps and got some suggestions From Viper Team as how to get that even better! Zero weight makes me nervous LOL:eclipsee_steering:
 
Mobil 1 does make a 0-w50 race oil.

I bought a case (found it on-line), but it took forever to arrive.

Other than that purchase, Walmart's Mobil 1 15 W-50 5 qt juggs are a deal at $23.00.
 
You rotary guys are nuts. Castrol GTX 5w30 in my stupid 4-banger, and it's never given me so much as a hiccup.
 
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