Painting the interrior - easiest method?

G

gran racing

Super Moderator
Since it's winter and my wife is going back to night school, I'll have some time on my hands. I figure this might be a good time to paint the interrior of the car.

It is probably one of those things when after I start, I wonder why in the world am I doing this. Are there any "easy" ways of doing this? Can I apply the paint with a brush versus spraying it on? I really don't want to have to take the car apart - just looking for a simple way to make it look a little nicer.

What paints should I use? Can I simply use rust-oleum? Also, do I need to / should I prime it first? Figured you'll say yes but it would be nice if you say no.

Then I guess I'll have to think about the color. Hmmm. Wish I knew how to rebuild an engine; that's what it really needs. And there is no way I am going to try and wing it. (I couldn't find any posts related to this when searching...)
 
YES-you can use Rustoleum on the interior. If you elect NOT to prime-scuff the existing paint with 220 paper (do this anyway). Can you use a foam or regular brush-sure. Is it easier to mask and shoot, but of course.

This is a great time to carefully examine all of the surfaces and make sure that there is no rust starting and that all of the drain tubes and rubber drain vents actually work.
If you decide to use a specific brand of paint make sure it is compatible with what is already there. I used Rustoleum grey primer for my primer and for several areas. I also sprayed their black on surfaces where the roll cage is welded in. Color is up to you. I chose not to match the exterior. Do consider getting the car up off the floor and using some Rustoleum on the underbody.

Have a great holiday season

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Grandpa's toys-modded suspensions and a few other tweaks
'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA #99
'99 Prelude=a sweet song
'03 Dodge Dakota Club Cab V8-Patriot Blue gonna tow
 
first of all has it been painted before or are you looking to cover factory color, has all the sound deadener been removed and are you thinking of painting cage as well as floor?
 
Most important is to make sure the paint you choose doesn't reflect or is not of a color that blots out the view out of the windows.
 
FWIW - I brushed the cage with Rustoleum from a can. I chose a color that looked close to the factory color so I didn't have to bother with the floor boards etc.
8-03-03%20055.jpg
 
We like the lighter colors so it's easier to find nuts and bolts when you drop them.
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Plus after realizing how much heat an uncarpeted interior radiates from the floor after 20 mins of driving, I can't imagine it still being black!

Rustoleum from a can. Or POR-15

Make sure you're in a well-ventilated area! When I was doing one of the cars a couple of summers ago, it was on the trailer and the cover had slipped down over the open window without me realizing it right away. I was a little loopy when I got out of there.
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Diane
 
Here are a few things to keep in mind, assuming you are not going to gut it out:

The floor area is much easier than the sides since it has fewer openings - the sides have all those nooks and crannies that are very difficult to get good coverage of. There places back in those openings that are visible but almost impossible to paint into from a spray can or w/ a brush. So, you can paint the floor whatever color you want. Loosen any visible wires and just lift and secure them out of the way. I cleaned it w/ paint thinner and used brush paint and literally poured it on the floor and spread it w/ a brush. It was red on a red car so it blended well w/ the areas inside the side openings that I did not paint. If you start painting them, you can't quit, and they look better in the original finish than painted half ass. I carefully re-sprayed the cage but the brush job Jake did above looks really good. (Jake, how did you post the photo?)
 
The car was blue, but now a somewhat noticeable yellow. The sound deadening stuff is out and the cage is painted. Wouldn't mind changing that color as well.

Maybe the point and shoot method would be easier. I should probably cover the exterior as well while doing this.

As for rust, I don't want to go there. Isn't that what aluminum tape is for? I learned that trick for the last-minute racing team. It actually works pretty well. Plus I'm really not sure how to properly repair it - the last time I tried the auto body shop laughed at me.

Kinda tough; light colors reflect too much and dark ones get the car aweful hot inside.
 
My last two cars have been done in various shades of grey. I like it because it shows leaks and dirt(also makes it easier to find the inspection holes in cage for tech). Scratch it up with sand paper and then rub it down with thinner.
I did one cage(RX3) with brush and decided that it is easier to spray. Start with the tight places and take frequent fresh air breaks. Expect to have overspray which cleans up well with either thinner or brake cleaner. Let it dry and then wax it.
 
If you spray (probably even if you don't), GET A MASK. I paid about $20 for one that seems to keep the fumes out pretty well.

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Marty Doane
ITS RX7 #13
CenDiv WMR
 
I did mine last winter, vacuumed it three times, wiped it with thinner, masked it (took forever), wiped it again then went to town w/ the spray gun. The cage had been painted prior to installation, except for weld areas so I didn't worry about getting the top sides of the bars. I used SEM "Rust Shield" upon recommendation of the paint department guy. So far he has been right. Its grey, not as shiny as I would have liked, but did not need any surface roughing and can be re-applied over itself if you need to repair scratches. It can go on with either a brush or sprayed. So far it has held up well. The floor board under my feet has been worn shiny & it has come off where scratched hard but otherwise it has held up well. The grey is nice as it brightens up the interior, but is not too light colored to show off every little pc of dirt. I didn't get fussy about getting rid of all the crap, just painted the snot out of it, there are some places that have marks from the air hose or bits of dirt inclusions, but its a racecar, not a show car.

Masking it will take you longer than you think. When in doubt mask it better, masking may slow, but its still faster than cleaning up overspray.
 
Can of Rustoleum and a brush took care of the interior on my car.

Masking it off well seemed to be too much headache for me. Probably shoulda primed it, but didn't do any more prep than vacuum, wipe down with damp rag and brush on. Took an afternoon (two coats of paint).

You won't see the brush strokes as much as you might think....

Jarrod
 
I used Rustoleum spray paint. I suggest that you do interior is stages, starting at the highest point. It will allow you to climb thru the interior with out making a mess.

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Tristan Smith
Buffalo's Southwest Cafe
ITA Nissan 240sx #56
 
I used white rustoleum recently...vaccum, wipe with aircraft thinner, mask (this is the only long part), scuff a little, vacuum, wipe down (should have only done this once, but I'm a dumbass and didn't think of scuffing til too late), spray.

I would recommend flat white as it keeps the interior or the car cool, it's easy to see stuff on, and looks pretty nice...

One other thing that I do....put some grippy stuff down on your drivers side floor. If you have to get out in a hurry, you don't want to be slipping on water, AFFF, or whatever might be down there.


Eric
NER SM #02
 
I like the spray can method - my compressor doesn't work very well (blows fuses, ect).

How much do I have to scuff it? Hopefully not too much.

For those who used cans, how many did it take? Are we talking about 3 or more like 10? I'm assuming it will take several coats.

Good idea to start from top down and in several stages. I got myself into trouble when I painted my cage then determined the best way out was through the trunk. My neighbors looked at me kinda weird when they saw me come out of there...at least I made them laugh.

What did you use on the driver's side floor? I was considering some tape that is used on step up truck bars and on other various applications. Any better ideas?

Thank you all for your help!
 
If you are going to go with a can, I recommend Krylon, as it dries quickly.

I prefer silver, but most folks won't want to bother with the second clear coat, although the total number of coats is often the same. Does look sleek when it's finished, though. Either way a medium neutral color is best.

Whatever you do, don't go with anything but gloss, or semi at worst. IMO, a flat finish will look filthy fast. Oils greas, grass will all stain, and be hard to clean.

Scuff with 3M scotch pads, red or green, enough so that the shine is removed from the paint. If you go through to bare metal, the right way is a metal etching primer, but there are decent metal primers available in a spray can.

use a 3M charcoal canister respirator. For $20 bucks you won't smell a thing.

I like the idea of non-slip on the drivers floor. But be prepared s it will get scuffed off, so have some spares.

There is a lot of surface in an interior, so plan on it taking longer than you want, but give it a good effort and you'll be rewarded.

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
 
You're right, I used semigloss not flat...but since I drive a spec miata, I'm not sure what this oil your talking about is.

I found some stick on stuff at Home Depot that has worked great. I think it's the stuff you would put on your grandmother's tub to keep her from falling in the shower. Perhaps you could get it in pretty flowers or colors?

Eric
NER SM #12 <--New number, woohoo

[This message has been edited by Blix (edited December 16, 2003).]
 
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