Parts Cleaning

C

Campbell

New member
Here it is the dead of winter and I am so bored I am going through donor parts I have as spares.. I don't have a sandblaster (although it would be so fun to have one!!) and was wondering what is a good way to clean oily, grungy parts in your attached garage? I don't have water, heat or a drain out there - any effective cleaning processes you guys have developed?

Thanks
 
Warm(er) day at the coin operated car wash for the big greasy stuff. 5 gallon bucket with some mineral spirits and let em soak themselves fairly clean. At that point you can fish them out, scrub them up a little then farm them out to a local media blaster or wire brush them yourself.

BTW, rubber parts don't do well in mineral spirits.
 
What's the best way to clean the scale out of the water passages in aluminum rotor housings or engine blocks? Someone else recommended oven cleaner (basically a stong base like lye) but that it turns the aluminum a dark gray. I need something that will not eat at the aluminum or chrome.
 
I use mineral spirits for grease parts followed up with brake cleaner for a final rinse. White vinegar does good on water deposits.

Watch Craigslists for a blasting cabinet, I picked this one up a few months ago for $100 complete. One of my better investments. Just did my entire suspension and some other things this winter.




 
Parts cleaning

Go get a used kitchen dishwasher.
Set it up outside your garage.
Fill it with hot water and a cup of dishwasher detergent powder.
Put in the greasy parts.
Start and run for an hour.
Remove clean parts and rinse with water from a hose.
It works.
Bill.
 
tom_sprecher said:
What's the best way to clean the scale out of the water passages in aluminum rotor housings or engine blocks? Someone else recommended oven cleaner (basically a stong base like lye) but that it turns the aluminum a dark gray. I need something that will not eat at the aluminum or chrome.
Click to expand...

As you have found out oven cleaner is not for use on aluminum. Most anything else it works fine. What I have used on aluminum is the paste type paint removers. It will take off carbon and soften old or hard grundge. The sort of stuff that normal mineral sprits don't work well on or takes a very long time to remove, and only it you keep it "wet" or soak it. On larger parts that may not be an option. I often cover the part with the remover on it with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out while it works. Follow the directions on the can of remover to clean off the part.
On water passages a mild acid may clean that deposts. The acid to use is the type contained in the rust removal product called "Naval Jelly".
What is contains is Phosphoric acid. You can buy it in liquid form by the gallon at most home improvement stores. Usually less then $15 a gallon. You then mix it 1 part acid to 4-5 parts water. You will find it in the paint section usually labeled as concrete cleaner/rust remover and sometimes as aluminum cleaner. Do not confuse this with Muriatic Acid. That is not what I'm talking about. Muriatic acid will eat up aluminum, even in weak solutions, howeve is does make a good rust remover. Body shops sell a solution labeled as"Metal Prep". It is used to clean bare steel pyror to painting, I believe it contains the same Phosphoric acid.
 
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I have been upgrading the suspension this winter. One of the rules I have given is if it comes off the car, it gets painted. I have been hitting stuff with the bench wheel, and air wheel, some brake cleaner, and then some rustoleum.
 
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