Question-Is 24' too much for YukonXL

BlueStreak

BlueStreak

New member
I need to hear some people's experiences towing 24' enclosed trailers. I'm ready to get an enclosed trailer, and although I only really need a 16' for my ITB GTI, I have found some really great deals on 24'. My tow vehicle is a 2003 GMC Yukon XL (Chevy Suburban copy) rated at 6400lbs with current engine/gearing. I have a prodigy brake controller that works great with my open trailer.

My current towing arrangement is 1700lb open trailer with 2600lbs of car and gear (4300lbs). It is a great setup, other than needing an enclosed trailer to recover a bunch of garage space.

The trailer I am looking at is 3600lbs, and I need to put about 2600lbs of car and gear in it. SO - that's 6200lbs, just inside the limit. The question is, practically speaking, is this too much? I *think* it will be OK, but I don't need a towing arrangement that stresses me out so bad that I'm too shot to race at the end of a long tow.

Please respond with you experiences - thanks a bunch in advance!
 
I'm not familiar enough with the yukon to know the specs, but i have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500... the pickup equivalent I think. my truck weighs less as it lacks all the metal, glass, carpet and leather yours has back there. My engine is the 5.3, and i tow a smaller enclosed...with a 2200 pound car...and stuff. And it is hard pressed in terms of power. Maintaining 70 through the mountains requires lots of downshifting, (even in tow mode) and the long grades slow things down a bit. Mileage is just under 10 on 93.

Everyone has a "happy zone" for trailering...I used to haul with a crack house van with a Dodge 318 4sp manual, so i can live with my current setup, but the guys who love things bigger and bigger scoff at me.

Chassis/handling/brake-wise, you should be fine with good trailer brakes and weight distribution bars.
 
Yucon for towing

Having just repaired one component of my '93 Surburban 1500, I'd offer this comment:

The weak link in the drivetrain might be the Automatic Transmission, since they are made to different standards thru the years. Mine went- south after I went South, and when I had it rebuilt locally by a quality shop, I was told that it was not made for extended heavy service (12,000lb towing weight). Don't forget that the Yucon won't be empty when towing.

I added the extras that the rebuilder suggested, and will live with it at its limitations, because I like the truck.

Suggestion: Ask a local quality transmission builder his/her opinion of what you want to do with the truck. My local people are well known locally for building racing automatic transmissions for local Circle Track people. That is where I got the recomendations, and I heard about all the others!

This component is the only one that will actually give up from heavier use than planned. the engine will only produce the power it was engineered to deliver. The Transmission will wear out.

Good Luck.

Bill Frieder:)
 
I will also support Bill's statement about the transmission being the weak link. I have a 2000 suburban k1500 5.7L engine and pull a 26 foot trailer with a 2000 lb racecar. I have put two transmissions into the vehicle in 95,000 miles. Both times the transmission went south while towing to a track.

My current transmission was built specifically as a towing transmission with beefer internals. It shifts hard but seems to pull much more smoothly than with the original and rebult transmission. I hope this one will last a bit longer under towing conditions.

I love my truck and I love my trailer, so I live with the knowledge that the tranny needs to be rebuilt every couple of years.

Bill Umstead
 
Do you know anybody in your area that has an enclosed trailer you could do a test run with? Gaining all that extra space is very tempting. The flip side of that is how nice and easy of a tow it is with an open trailer, don't have to worry about hills, gas milage, easier on the truck, ect.
 
Pure opinion. 1500 max is 20ft and for a 24ft you need a 2500. I towed/confiscated an EMPTY 28ft (maybe 30ft) trailer with my 1500 5.3 when I would get to about 45 mpg the front wheels began to lift. Luckily I only had to go 5 miles.
 
Eddie,

Talk to Farrout. While his Tahoe/Yukon was not an XL he did tow his 20' enclosed for a short while with it.

You are also welcome to take mine on a test drive. 24' box but I have to tell you, I personally think that 20' is going to be the max for your chassis. Heck, even the trailex open, tools, and spares with my car was TOUGH on the Suburban I had before the Duramax. It would tow fine on the flats but don't count on making any time going up hills and heaven help you if you had to stop quickly (it only had surge brakes).

Call me if you want to try it out.

Paul
 
The Chev 1500 tranny is not adequate for an enclosed trailer in any part of the country that is not flat. Most everyone I know that has tried has replaced a tranny. If you get away with it you will be the exception. Just to much weight. Buy a 2500 and you get the bigger tranny.
Chris
 
zchris said:
The Chev 1500 tranny is not adequate for an enclosed trailer in any part of the country that is not flat. Most everyone I know that has tried has replaced a tranny. If you get away with it you will be the exception. Just to much weight. Buy a 2500 and you get the bigger tranny.
Chris
Click to expand...

+1, except make mine an F250 diesel, baby! :D
 
So, since the transmission difference between the 1500 and 2500 is 4L60E vs 4L80E, has anyone on here managed to kill a 4L80E? If so, how'd you do it?

I may just replace the 4L60E with a 4L80E and keep my Yukon XL.
 
BlueStreak said:
So, since the transmission difference between the 1500 and 2500 is 4L60E vs 4L80E, has anyone on here managed to kill a 4L80E? If so, how'd you do it?

I may just replace the 4L60E with a 4L80E and keep my Yukon XL.
Click to expand...

Trans and helper springs/air bags and you should be ok.
 
Your idea to test is good.

I had a GMC Yukon (not the XL) that pulled a open tilt trailer with a 3200 pound car 32 weekends in one year (autocross aholic). Never had a moments trouble with anything. One of my racing buddies had a Chevy 1500 and pulled a 24' enclosed trailer with a Z06 and had to be uncomfortably careful. I know your car is much lighter than the vette but we were autocrossing and did not carry any spares worth mentioning. Very different from the warehouse I drag with me to the road races.

Then I went to a road race and that was the end of autocross, open trailer, and bank account:) I bought a 27' aluminum enclosed Cargo Mate to pull behind a motor home. I tried the Yukon and it had plenty of power and brakes but even with a load leveling hitch I did not dare go over 45 MPH (white knuckle all the way).

I just traded my fantastic Yukon with 175,000 miles and the original, never touched transmission, on a "Sweet Mercy" Toyota. I'll soon know if the commercials are true.

I think the 24 is at the outer limit and testing on the interstate is a wise move.
 
FWIW, I can say that a 3/4ton (vs your half-ton) has no problem with a 24' trailer. I love mine (with the big block too, but a friend with the 6.0 in a Suburban 2500 is also happy towing his 24' trailer).
 
What is the difference between the 4L60E and the 4L80E? My 1997 Z71 has the 4L80E other than hold 2 extra quarts of tranny fliud is there any real difference?
 
tom_sprecher said:
+1, except make mine an F250 diesel, baby! :D
Click to expand...

I would have to agree. I had a 2003 1500 Silverado with the 5.3 towing a 20' enclosed. Just not enough power on long uphill grades, and felt that the trailer was pushing me around on steep downhill. Upgraded to the 2500 Duramax and feel much more comfortable towing. :023:
 
Couple of comments.

Go for the 24', you'll get the car in the 16', and that's about all. When I bought my 24', I was looking for a 20'. After I got it, and got it set up, I was glad I got the 24' (and I was towing a Rabbit).

Mine is the heavier 24' (10,000# GVW, weighs ~3500# empty), and I towed it a couple of times w/ a '98 K1500 w/ a 3.42 rear. It made it to Summit Point and back a few times, but it was probably not a good idea. I now have a '98 K2500 HD w/ the 4L80E trans and a 4.10 rear. Mileage sucks, but it does ok in the towing dept. And that's probably one of the key things, the rear end ratio is important. Most of the heavier trucks have the 4.10 rear, which when coupled w/ a HD trans like the 4L80E, makes for a good package.

That being said, you can break those trannys. I have a friend that has one in a K2500 Suburban 4WD (mid-90s), and he had to have it rebuilt, and he never towed anything.
 
I used to have a 99 Burp, 2500, 454. I was told when I bought it that they did something to the internals I think in 98 that improved the durability of the 3/4 ton transmission. I had my truck from 60k to 150k and had no issues, and did a lot of towing (including with a 18" enclosed).

Rest of the truck was a POS though.
 
Just my opinion...

3/4 ton truck + 24 foot enclosed.

Anything under 3/4 ton and it will eventually tear up your truck. The 24' is much nicer than the 20' as far as having extra room for stuff, cabinets and such. But the 20' is easier to park. It jut looks kinda stubby.

I was pulling a 20' with a Tahoe and the body started working loose from the frame. It pulled fine and the transmission never gave me any trouble but I had to run tires with a load rating of E with 50 psi when I towed. Otherwise I had cycling problems. (The trailer trying to pass the truck)

I have a dually now and can't tell if there's a trailer back there sometimes.

Tom
 
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