Radiator
- Thread starter den
- Start date
Karl Bocchieri
New member
Call Fluidyne, they make anything you want, they make most of the custom rads for NASCAR.
They made me a Dual-pass double core with mounting flanges so it bolts in exactly like the stock one. No fabrication needed. I had them make the inlet and outlets on the same side(easy with a dual pass) so I have short hoses and don't need that long one that you need if you get a Howe or Griffin made for a ford or chevy.
The best is that it was the same price as the others.
They have my specs on file and could build you one no problem, get them to fax you the specs.
My car NEVER overheats, I have an electric fan but I only use it when not moving and mostly I dont even need it then.
E-mail me if you want more info.
[This message has been edited by Karl Bocchieri (edited November 18, 2001).]
They made me a Dual-pass double core with mounting flanges so it bolts in exactly like the stock one. No fabrication needed. I had them make the inlet and outlets on the same side(easy with a dual pass) so I have short hoses and don't need that long one that you need if you get a Howe or Griffin made for a ford or chevy.
The best is that it was the same price as the others.
They have my specs on file and could build you one no problem, get them to fax you the specs.
My car NEVER overheats, I have an electric fan but I only use it when not moving and mostly I dont even need it then.
E-mail me if you want more info.
[This message has been edited by Karl Bocchieri (edited November 18, 2001).]
Well if you like art, you could spend $800.00 like my sorry @$$ and get one from Mazda comp. this thing is over 3 inches thick and an absolute piece of art, if I was'nt building an ITS car I swear I would hang it on the wall in my entry way it sure is sexy, and we'll see if it actually works soon I hope, RP.
Anyone else delaying their ITA RX-7 radiator decisions to see what Denver/Topeka decides on the modification of radiator supports and brackets? My thinking was if they don't allow me to cut a hole in the radiator support structure to run a fresh air intake hose through, then I'd order a slightly shorter radiator so I could pass a duct through. Of course, it has to be able to still cool the beast...
bldn10
New member
I assume we are talking 2nd gen. here. The Mazda Comp radiator is a beautiful piece of workmanship but it is BIG. In fact I had to cut out the inner layer of the hood and shim down my sway bar about 1.5" because the outlet is partially on the bottom. And this was after Comp Parts assured me it was a simple bolt-in deal. It did not solve my cooling woes nearly as good as having my 2 stock coolers cleaned out. Not worth the big bucks.
Karl Bocchieri
New member
Den,
The stock oil cooler is sufficent for IT racing under most conditions.(only if your radiator is doing it's job) In extreme conditions I have seen 2 stock coolers put in line but that is usually not needed.
The stock coolers will need to be cleaned because they have alot of gunk in them from all those street miles. Try and find a place that will ultrasonicly flush it. Just hot tanking it dosen't get the crud out.
After cleaning mine, the oil never goes above 230 degrees. It's also inportant to make sure that the thermostat in the cooler is working and not gummed up in the closed position.
The stock oil cooler is sufficent for IT racing under most conditions.(only if your radiator is doing it's job) In extreme conditions I have seen 2 stock coolers put in line but that is usually not needed.
The stock coolers will need to be cleaned because they have alot of gunk in them from all those street miles. Try and find a place that will ultrasonicly flush it. Just hot tanking it dosen't get the crud out.
After cleaning mine, the oil never goes above 230 degrees. It's also inportant to make sure that the thermostat in the cooler is working and not gummed up in the closed position.
Karl Bocchieri
New member
I don't know about a 1st gen but the 2nd gen has a thermostat in the oil cooler. It's under that big threaded cap. You need a thermostat in the oil line, oil works best between 200 and 230 degrees. To cold is almost as bad as too hot.