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Guest
Guest
how many of you guys are bending a smidge of rear end camber into your first gens and how much and where to put the actual bend?
lateapex911
Super Moderator
Is this a trick question??
Or are you saying that if there is no spec then anything goes??
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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
Or are you saying that if there is no spec then anything goes??
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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
Speed Raycer
New member
I doubt that you'll actually get anyone to answer the whole question, but it pays to have your housing checked on a frame machine to make sure its not a +camber or a toe in/toe out situation.
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Scott
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it
E-mail me for deals on
Lightweight Replica Blocks!
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Scott
It's not what you build...
it's how you build it
E-mail me for deals on
Lightweight Replica Blocks!
Allen Brown
New member
I personally like to match my rear camber with the front. 3.25 neg on the passenger, and 2.75 on the driver side. It is just a real pain in the hiney when I switch tracks and have to rebend the axle tubes.....
Sorry....I guess I was being a smart a$$ again. Back to the question, As far a my interpretation goes, this type of adjustment is not allowed in IT.
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Allen Brown
#36 IT-1
GT-3 in 2004
[email protected]
Sorry....I guess I was being a smart a$$ again. Back to the question, As far a my interpretation goes, this type of adjustment is not allowed in IT.
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Allen Brown
#36 IT-1
GT-3 in 2004
[email protected]
G
Guest
Guest
so let me get this strait, 25 out of the 38 cars in my IT run group are either front drive or independent rear all of which are running 1.5 to 2 degrees neg in the back and I cant? wsup, none of them are to mfger spec, is there something I missed in the rules where it says "turn a bolt, and its ok just dont get it any other way". I missed that line in the GCR. If I had known this I could have won two weeks ago instead of 5th and got the overall 1st as well, I wouldnt be very popular at the next race though. one person even told me its a 2 sec gain for them.
Yep, choose your model and class carefully.
not only can they adjust theirs by "turning a bolt". They also get to slot and reinforce mounting holes to make it easier!
They don't have to carry all the unsprung weight either.
But, they don't get to drive a rotary now do they?
Speed Raycer
New member
fIn looking at the 01 GCR I have here at work, it is specifically stated how Ind. Rear Suspensions can attain -camber. Not so for us guys with live axles.
That being said... if there is no specific parameters in the RX7 from the factory service manual for rear wheel alignment settings, I would call that up in the air for what the factory intended the specs to be. Obviously, there were tolerances in the castings. Some housings may have come from the factory with -camber, some with +camber.
If someone has the FSM, do us all a favor and look it up. Put this debate to rest!
That being said... if there is no specific parameters in the RX7 from the factory service manual for rear wheel alignment settings, I would call that up in the air for what the factory intended the specs to be. Obviously, there were tolerances in the castings. Some housings may have come from the factory with -camber, some with +camber.
If someone has the FSM, do us all a favor and look it up. Put this debate to rest!
If you were going to add rear camber. The best thing would be to slot the axle housing as close to the diff as possible. The further out the more load on the axle bearing. I have seen first gens with it done both ways. The guy closest to the diff never had a bearing failure, the other guy replaced the bearings multiple times per season.
You would need to get the axle on stands level. Measure the camber(digital level).Cut your slots. Heat up the housing until the weight closes the slot and recheck your camber. Once it is dialed maybe one degree per side weld your slots closed. I am not saying this is legal or not, just answering the original question.
Eric
You would need to get the axle on stands level. Measure the camber(digital level).Cut your slots. Heat up the housing until the weight closes the slot and recheck your camber. Once it is dialed maybe one degree per side weld your slots closed. I am not saying this is legal or not, just answering the original question.
Eric
G
Guest
Guest
I live in bakersfield where the temp reaches close to forging temperature, stands to reason a bit of sag may occur, ill pick thru my rear ends and find one that was used for a dukes of hazzard shoot.
G
Guest
Guest
jake, are you racing against ITA cars that have 0 camber in the rear? just curious. I also want to point out that I wont spend 10 more dollars on my car that COULD go towards seat time either at BWRP practicing or racing to make my car faster.....(BWRP IS 20 minutes from home for $75) my cars not slow, Im slow and I know that, but why should I be 2 more seconds off pace from the rest because of rear camber alone, fixing that will cost me nothing. Am I off base on this? I read the GCR close on this and non independent camber adjustment was a taken as a given in my opinion but should be clarified. once again ill ask the comp board for a clarification, im sure this was an oversight.
[This message has been edited by 7'sRracing (edited June 07, 2003).]
[This message has been edited by 7'sRracing (edited June 07, 2003).]