Rhino liner in trailer?

C

C. Ludwig

New member
So I'm finally going to take the plunge for a enclosed trailer. Champaign tastes and beer budgets and all. I'm looking for a 28' tag. After quite a bit of experience with plywood and vinyl floors I know that's what I don't want. Looks like the going rate for a full ATP floor is around $1000 give or take. I'm considering a Rhino type coating though. Anyone care to comment on what they would think the durability of such a product would be?

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
ATP = Aluminum Tread Plate. I know, because I looked into it for my trailer. Was going to cost about $650 for two strips of 2'wide tread plate. Evidently, aluminum prices have gone up quite a bit lately.

I am very curious about the Rhino coating. I put down self-adhesive tile (from Home Depot). Looked great until the heat got to it... the tiles under the car wheels move during transport.

Anthony R.
#86 ITA NER
 
Rhino Liner or Line-X over ATP.

I painted my floor with an excellent primer and a few coats of good exterior paint. My tires roll on raised e-track so I don't have issues with hot rubber vs. paint. My friend had her trailer Line-X'd (like Rhino). If I was to do it over again I'd go with the Line X. I don't think it will be much different in price than ATP. The weight difference probably isn't too much either. The installer said that he probably sprayed about 80-100# of it in a 20' x 102" trailer. It is probably 1/8-3/16" thick.
It is very easy to keep clean. You can hose it out, spray brake cleaner on any oil spots. It isn't slippery when it is wet! It doesn't reflect the sun and isn't ice cold in the winter.

If you go the Rhino/LineX route have them go 6-8" up the walls as well as the ramp door.

Since the Rhino lining isn't exposed to the sun in an enclosed trailer I imagine it will last a long, long, long time. It became popular in truck beds a few years back, and I have yet to see one where the liner is separating from the bed.

Isn't there a warranty on the Rhino liner?

[This message has been edited by Quickshoe (edited September 07, 2004).]
 
Thanks for the input. More is welcome.
biggrin.gif


Didn't think about the Line-X at first but think it's probably the better option. It's much harder than Rhino from what I've seen and should hold up to tires rolling on it better. Guess when the time comes I'll roll the dice and give it a try.



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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
I put an engineered floor down.

Good looking, easy to apply, easy to clean, takes the abuse a well as any, and cheap.

there just isn't enough square are to rack up the cot.

Those that see it are (overly) impressed. But therye are a lot of choices at the depot.I chose a light color for good loght efficiency.

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
 
Its the industry name for a hardwood floor thats made in layers. It can have layers of wood crisscrossing each other with the top layer being the "show" veneer, or it can be a layering of veneers and MDF with a lastic wear surface in a wood "appearance.

Pergo is the most famous of the non real wood varieties. And there are lots more in every size and color.

I put down a light colored Pergo. It "locks" together at the joints very tightly. I was worried that if it was deluged with water that the water would seep in and buckle things, but it did go through a monsoon when I was on the track during a sudden downpour, and all is well.

My car has leaked a few drops of every fluid it has sans brake fluid, and the floor cleans up 100%

There are cheaper alternatives than Pergo, but the amount I needed was pretty small so the extra bucks seemed like a good investment.

The floor actually "floats" as one monolithic structure on a thin layer of moisture barrier foam. No problems with that either. So no glues or fasteners of any kind. Installation is a "snap"..literally. Just need a good blade on a square chopsaw.

So far, so good.

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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
 
Have you priced the Rhino liner? I thought it to be a good idea, so I called around town checking prices. For sandblasting the trailer and prep work two quotes I got were both $1000.00!!! Not bad for a trailer that cost less than $900!!!

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Chuck Baader
#36 ITA E30 BMW
Alabama Region Divisional Registrar
 
Originally posted by Quickshoe:
If I was to do it over again I'd go with the Line X. I don't think it will be much different in price than ATP.
Click to expand...

Yes, Chuck, it is expensive. Kim paid somthing like $700 on a floor that she prepped. 20'x 102" + ramp door and 6" up the walls. Line-X'd by EmpireMotorsports in Rancho Cucamonga.
 
Yeah, I was guessing around the $800-1000 range. But ATP will cost $1000 minimum so I'm just exploring alternatives.

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Chris Ludwig
08 ITS RX7 CenDiv
 
Chris-- I used the do it yourself bedliner in my enclosed trailer last year. It has held up well to my son putting mowers and stuff in it all week, and when I go racing you can take the pressure washer to it. I think it was 70 a gallon and 2 gallons did two coats on the floor, door and 1 foot up the wall.

jerry monaghan
 
Do all the prep work yourself and Line-X it. I've got a friend with a small enclosed trailer that sprayed Line-X on the floor. It looks awesome. He did go one step further and put the ATP on top going up where the car rides on only. Line-X is not slick when it's wet, cleans up awesome, and quite frankly looks awesome. I have another brand in my truck that came with it in the bed. I like the way Line-X looks and feels a bit better. I was even half tempted to spray my open trailer completely in it instead of paint.

I will never own another truck without a spray in bedliner.

Rob
 
I used indoor outdoor carpet on both my ramp truck bed and my 32 ft inclosed trailer with no trouble at all. Looks great and easy to clean. Use the stuff made for a bank lobby.
 
Originally posted by Quickshoe:
Rhino Liner or Line-X over ATP.

I painted my floor with an excellent primer and a few coats of good exterior paint. My tires roll on raised e-track so I don't have issues with hot rubber vs. paint.
Click to expand...

I agree use a primer- and some good Exterior paint- oil base preferably.

Mix in a good cup or two of sand (a.k.a. Anti Slip stuff from Home Depot.)

Roller it on - and put like 2-3 coats.

No Slipping at all anywhere on the floor or the ramp door- wlaking or driving - and it holds up good.

~E.

It looks like this: http://www.empire1.net/racing/images/pic95.jpg


[This message has been edited by Edwin Robinson (edited September 17, 2004).]
 
Anybody tried any of the DIY epoxy coatings they sell for garages? I'm guessing it will trap moisture in the floor just like anthing else, so that's not any more of a drawback for this solution.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
 
I had steel plate put in my trailer earlier this year and it rained for two solid weeks. 400-500 to sand blast was crazy, so I researched coatings. Rust Bullet seemed the best and I will try it in the next couple of weeks and report back.

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Chuck Baader
#36 ITA E30 BMW
Alabama Region Divisional Registrar
 
Thanks for the recommendations for Line-X

LINE-X is a blend of Polyurea and Polyeurethane. You can google these for more info. Rhino is pure Polyeurethane.

You can look here for some serious applications for Polyurea
www.paxcon.com

If you want to Line-X, you don't need to prime the wood. Just make sure it is dry and free of oil,grease, etc. Going up the wall 6-8 inches isn't a bad idea.

You can spray both products in varying thickness, so be sure to ask questions and specify. WATCH YOUR TRAILER BEING DONE OR HAVE SOME WAY TO MEASURE THICKNESS.

I would think that 1/8" is gracious plenty for trailer beds.. Probably .060-.080" is more cost effective and will offer enough wear. Plan between $4 and $6 per sq ft dep on difficulty (means: labor to tape) and thickness.

Anyone that has specific questions can call me at the shop at 704-721-5463


See ya!!

Scott Matre
Line-X of Cabarrus/Rowan
 
Applied Rust Bullet about 3 weeks ago, and am impressed with its ablilty to cover surface rust. Roller was even kicking up rust dust with the first coat. The second coat ended up being a third since I used half the paint the first coat and could have used 2/3. After the recent rains, the trailer looks like the day I painted it. I will spray with polyurethane in the next several weeks, weather permitting, and report back.

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Chuck Baader
#36 ITA E30 BMW
Alabama Region Divisional Registrar
 
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