RX-7 WHEEL STUDS

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dick Elliott
  • Start date Start date
Dick,

What's the thread size? Is it 12 x 1.5 mm? If so, you should be able to source them from several places. In fact, one of the forum sponsors, Bildon Motorsports, has them. IIRC, they're 80mm.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
 
I think they are 12 x 1.5

If so, Summit racing has them from ARP. They have two styles, a .509 dia. knurl 2.5 inches long for $12 per set of five or a 0.485 dia. knurl 2.85 inches long for $17 per set of five.

Part numbers are ARP-100-7708 and ARP-100-7712.

{Edited to add details}
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Ty Till
#16 ITS
Rocky Mountain Division

[This message has been edited by x-ring (edited April 11, 2005).]
 
Originally posted by x-ring:
I think they are 12 x 1.5

If so, Summit racing has them from ARP. They have two styles, a .509 dia. knurl 2.5 inches long for $12 per set of five or a 0.485 dia. knurl 2.85 inches long for $17 per set of five.

Part numbers are ARP-100-7708 and ARP-100-7712.

{Edited to add details}
Click to expand...

I thought RX7's had wheel bolts (like VW's)?? If so, and you want to use the ones from ARP, you have to drill out the hub/rotor. The ones from Bildon are screw-in. I use blue Loctite, and the seem to hold fine.



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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
 
A word of caution if you use screw-in studs. Red Loctite (the strongest) is good to approximately 400F per Loctite. It is conceivable that your hubs will reach that temp or beyond (mine did). When this happens, all the Loctite goes away and the studs can loosen (mine did) and the lug nuts require tightening every run! The ARP studs are the best way to go even though you will have to remove your hubs to install them. BTW, the best price I found on lug nuts was from the local auto parts store that carries Dorman. Good luck, Chuck

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Chuck Baader
#36 ITA E30 BMW
Alabama Region Divisional Registrar
 
Scott! Any way to drill/mill through the rotor, so regular studs could be installed from the back side. DICK.


Originally posted by Speed Raycer:
RX7's are bolts... zero access from the back side.
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by chuck baader:
A word of caution if you use screw-in studs. Red Loctite (the strongest) is good to approximately 400F per Loctite. It is conceivable that your hubs will reach that temp or beyond (mine did). When this happens, all the Loctite goes away and the studs can loosen (mine did) and the lug nuts require tightening every run! The ARP studs are the best way to go even though you will have to remove your hubs to install them. BTW, the best price I found on lug nuts was from the local auto parts store that carries Dorman. Good luck, Chuck
Click to expand...

My bad, I meant to say that I use the RED Loctite, not the blue stuff. Also, I always torque my wheels before every session anyway. I originally used the ARP studs (actually designed for a GM F-body application, IIRC). It was no big deal to drill the drums/rotors, but if you broke one in the front, and had to replace it, it meant you were doing a wheel bearing as well. This was because you couldn't pull the hub w/o trashing the bearing. Note: this was on a VW Rabbit.

Also, if you go w/ the ARP w/ the .508 knurl, don't use a 1/2" bit, it's too big. Go w/ a 31/64ths. I got this from the guy at ARP.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI (sold) | MARRS #25 HProd Rabbit
SCCA 279608
 
We use the screw in type, Tom at 7's (www.sevensonly.com) only has them, Turner Motorsports (the bimmer guys) have them ($5 a stud?!?!?!) and they are available from wheelcomponent.com (not sure about 3 inch)

I've never had a problem with them loosening, and use Red loctite always.
Marcus
 
Mazda Comp 0000-04-7902. 2.25 long studs. Very good parts, with interference thread where it screws into rotor. I Also use blue locktite on mine. I don't have problems with them coming loose. Not sure why you need 3" long...

Tak
 
Don't forget about the added "benefit" of slicing through competitors tires if they try to get by (you know, Speed Racer villains, Roman chariots, etc). I thought that was the main reason for studs that stick out farther than the tire sidewalls! Honestly, I really do think there should be a rule against it.
 
Eric - How many cases of damage, much less tire failure, have you seen from wheel studs to justify limiting their size?

I'll provide my data point: 0

Is this really a problem or just something that seems like it could be?

[This message has been edited by Bryan Watts (edited April 26, 2005).]
 
FLASH!!!! Stop the press!!!! This just in off the wire!!!! SCCA bans ALL aftermarket parts!!!! (Hey! its for your own good)
 
I know this is an old thread but it came up while searching for a good way of keeping my screw in studs tight on my '83 RX-7. I'll go with the red loctite but what torque do you use?
 
I know this is an old thread but it came up while searching for a good way of keeping my screw in studs tight on my '83 RX-7. I'll go with the red loctite but what torque do you use?
[/b]
Click to expand...


I use 70 ft-lbs on the lug nuts; and the studs have been in so long that I have forgotten what I torqued them to :unsure:

But I used red loctite and have had no trouble with this set coming loose (touch wood).
 
you can use the loctite but in will not hold up to heat. i just tighten them with the allen drive every weekend when I nut a bolt the car, probably only 40 pounds on that little wrench. I usually find one or two that i have to snug each weekend
 
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