Season's done

tdw6974

New member
Appears that as a result of breaking the fan belt and resultant coolant loss we now have some damaged coolant seals.(has all the classic signs) Moral check fan belt! maybe install a warning light when alternator quits. TW
 
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I am a simple guy. I just use the VW low oil pressure switch. "Black" one.
The light stays on as the car warms up and often will come on at idle. Goes out as the revs and temp rise. Stays out on track if all goes well.
For it to work as hoped, avoid cracking the cap post warm up as the light may stay on longer as you go out onto the track.
This all came to be as rental drivers drove the car until it stopped moving.
Now I have the temp gauge centered and all lights visable in the camera. Sometimes the camera is on.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uJ9XCFZBvA[/ame]
The lights should be visible here.
Sorry, the Chumpcar has the temp centered. This is the HP/Chumpcar Golf. If you watch closely you may notice that the car is set up for the concrete and has a soft push on the pavement. Maybe needs 2- 3# more in the LR
 
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Omg!

He's serious!
Sounds like it might work-me, I got a high temperature switch (220*) and put another huge idiot light next to the matching oil pressure warning one.
 
well thats a bummer.

the stock Rx7 has a light on the dash that will come on if the alt stops charging, was part of my winter plan to figure out how to wire that back in and to a big idiot light!
 
The light shows a open hose or bad HG right away before the heat.

" If the light comes on check the damn gauge. If the light stays on over 3000RPM, please come in."
The car in the vid has 2 oil lights, one for the camera and one for the driver .

I also note that I need the big lights . The Chumper has 4 BA lights and two gauges, temp& tach.
Lights are;No alt charge, low water pressure, low oil pressure, low fuel.
I use an air only "30$ accusump" so the oil pressure stays up.
 
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