Smart Camber gauge question

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DavidM

New member
I've been looking at camber gauges and the Smart Camber looks pretty good. The auto-leveling feature seems nice. I read through the instruction manual and I'm somewhat confused as to how you auto-level it, though. I did a search and it looks like some people on the forum may have it so I thought I'd ask here about how you guys auto-level.

The manual has you level it in the horizontal plane, which seems easy. Then it talks about resetting plumb by putting it against a window. If my car is in a paddock somewhere I probably don't have a vertical window perpendicular to my horizontal surface. So how are you guys resetting plumb?

I'm trying to figure out if the auto-leveling feature is worth it or if it's fairly useless in practicality.

Thanks.

David
 
It rocks! So do the self aligning lasers...they can do SO much in the shop to save manpower they pay for themselves in a flash. Setting up scales is a cake walk.

I have the smart level, without the attachment. I made plates teh fit my rims, and attach them to the rims with mini bungees. then I hold the level and poof! instant camber. Use it to fine tune your scales pads for level too.

Self level it at home, and carry it in a small shock protected box or bag, and you will be fine. Recalibrate it before you leave home.

If you forget, or change batts or drop it, just take it to the bathroom or the drivers meeting or to any building. All you need is a close to vertical surface. Even an enclosed trailer will do if it's close!



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Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
 
I have one and, like Jake, I agree it rocks. I have access to a $60K Hunter alignment machine at work and with the camber gauge, fishing wire and two poles I can get REAL close to the same readings at the track that I have on the machine.

After talking to the Smart guys you need to zero or auto leveling only once and if you never remove the module from the frame or drop it it will read accurate on level surfaces. My garage floor is level and it is set to that. Now if the pad you are on at the track is not level then zero it on the ground next to the wheel that is being measured and it will be real close. One thing to remember is that you can set the car up on a known good surface, like your garage, then at the track you make adjustments off that base setting. You have -2.0 front camber at home, and you have -2.4 at the track, well you want to pull out .5 of camber then you would go to -1.9 at the track. When you have a known good base number, work off of the readings you get at the track. Remember that if change the zero settings at the track and then you get back to the known good floor to reset the zero settings on the gauge. Like the instructions say the more you use it the better you will be with it.

Get the hands free adapter, it is worth the extra $$

Jon
 
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