springs-
- Thread starter terry
- Start date
x-ring
New member
Assume for the moment, Katman, that he has all the money he might want for shocks. I'd be real interested in hearing what you might have to say,
I'm using Illuminas (sp?) now, just because they were on the car when I bought it. A casual search hasn't turned up anything better, but I'm sure something's out there. I read something once about using VW golf application Koni's, but can't seem to find it now.
What are your thoughts on threaded body struts vis-à-vis the 'no permanently attached threaded sleeve' rule?
Ty
I'm using Illuminas (sp?) now, just because they were on the car when I bought it. A casual search hasn't turned up anything better, but I'm sure something's out there. I read something once about using VW golf application Koni's, but can't seem to find it now.
What are your thoughts on threaded body struts vis-à-vis the 'no permanently attached threaded sleeve' rule?
Ty
I have limited experece and have lumina shocks. Tracks will be Portland and Seatle for the majority of races. Just getting an idea to start a base line,and get others opinions so I don't have to "reinvent the wheel." Opinions on shocks and prices could be helpfull. Ideas on camber, toe and caster?
Tokico really doesn't have anything upto the task, and I've failed Illumina's on several occasions. Koni's 8610 series seems to wear out the upper bushings so fast they're not economical. The Ground Control Advanced Design's look good on paper, but don't appear to have enough fluid on the rebound side to conrol that. My current wisdom (and I use that term loosely) for an ITS or EP 240Z is Bilstein P30-0032 revalved to 300/100 with 350-400 lb/in springs up front and 285-350 lb/in springs in back. If we're talking "all the money he might want for shocks" then I'd have Bilstein build me about 3 different sets based on shock dyno tests of my now illegal remote reservior adjustables. Regarding threaded struts/shocks versus a threaded sleeve- just another stupid SCCA'ism. The price you pay for being in a CLUB.
Terry: I'm a big fan of zero toe in the rear as long as there's no rubber bushings left in the control arms. Up front I usually need about 1/8 total toe out for turn in at slow turns. For a beginning driver I like to set up softer, so try the 350/285 combo springs (if it's smooth tracks, I haven't been to the two you mention but 325/250 isn't out of the question if it's bumpy), 7/8 front bar, no rear bar, and camber depends on too many things to say. You'll need the capability to go to at least 3.5 negative up front and 2.5 negative in back. Tire temps are the way to determine camber for any particular track/day/tire.
This assumes you got good corner weights and about 5.25 inches at the rocker for a ride height. The spring ratio front to back is sensitive to front roll center, which is sensitive to ride height, so "your results may vary". Be dang sure you're in the middle of the shock travel at static ride height.
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katman
Banzai240
New member
Terry,
If you don't get in touch with Joe Harlan at TopTech Motorsports in Oregon City, OR, you are a mid-packer at best! His specialty is Nissans. Drop him a line at: [email protected]
You won't be sorry...
Look me up this summer. It looks like we have the same home tracks...
Good LUCK!
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Darin E. Jordan
SCCA #273080, OR/NW Regions
Auburn, WA
ITS '97 240SX
