Steering lock removal ?
- Thread starter Fleetcare
- Start date
It is generally much easier to take the dash out before doing a cage. As to the steering lock-the shrouds on the column come off and you should be able to see the lock and how it atttaches to the ignition switch. A drawing of the assembly is in both the Helm and your local dealer can print out the page from the parts lists.
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
to get to the lock, you just unscrew the plastic cover with three screws underneath. then youll see a yoke around the steering column with funny looking bolts. youll need to basically drill these off, its in the manual. (i guess they do this to see if the ignition has ever been tampered) then you can remove the whole ignition lock. youll see how it works, theres a dead bolt that locks into a notch in the steering column that is activated by the presence of the key.
now, theres several ways to disable the lock. one way ive heard to do is basically drill thru the back of the lock in the center of the black piece, and the innards will fall out, not sure if im describing it accurately since i didnt do it. the way i did it was i drilled and opened up the hole where the key sensor pokes into the lock, but i drilled it with the dead bolt pushed in, so basically the holes only match up when the dead bolt is pressed in. then i put a small dowel rod in the hole i drilled to jam the dead bolt in place. works for me and its not completely destructive, i can go back to stock if i want. (i have insane thoughts of *maybe* one day driving the car stock.)
also while youre in there, disable the key sensor as well, so it doesnt annoyingly beep with the key in with an open door. just open it up and place a pieces of tape between the contacts to permantly close the loop.
now, theres several ways to disable the lock. one way ive heard to do is basically drill thru the back of the lock in the center of the black piece, and the innards will fall out, not sure if im describing it accurately since i didnt do it. the way i did it was i drilled and opened up the hole where the key sensor pokes into the lock, but i drilled it with the dead bolt pushed in, so basically the holes only match up when the dead bolt is pressed in. then i put a small dowel rod in the hole i drilled to jam the dead bolt in place. works for me and its not completely destructive, i can go back to stock if i want. (i have insane thoughts of *maybe* one day driving the car stock.)
also while youre in there, disable the key sensor as well, so it doesnt annoyingly beep with the key in with an open door. just open it up and place a pieces of tape between the contacts to permantly close the loop.
Chris Sawatsky
New member
These are break-away bolts, just like on your tps sensor. Cut a slot in them with a dremel and they can be turned out easily
greg_umbay
New member
I used my Dremmel and made a groove for a flat head screw driver. Before you get to that point you have to remove the plastic covers and any other stuff that might be in the way. After that I cut the grooves, then used a flathead screw driver to remove the bolts. Disconnected everything so I could mount the lock on a vise. Then went to work grinding down the dead bolt. The dead bolt is made out of brass, which makes it easy to grind down.
dominojd
New member
Originally posted by Fleetcare:
welli tried to grind the lock portion off.. it wasnt grinding.. So i drilled thru the back. And somehow stuffed up the lockI guess ill order a new one tommorow
I don't have a honda ,but when I took mine off I just chucked it and put in a start button set up. It's alot easier than drilling and grinding all kinds of stuff. Its also probably cheaper than buying a new lock mechanism.
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Joe D.
Future ITS pilot
[This message has been edited by dominojd (edited October 07, 2002).]
Sorry, but this string is amusing to me simply because my problem was solved by thieves. They stole the car, completely rendered the ignition inoperable, and destroyed the lock in the process.
A toggle switch and pushbutton start from just about any car parts store did the trick. Here's a link:
http://tinyurl.com/1vwa
There were a few weeks were the button wasn't functioning properly... I think the problem was from condensation from having the A/C on. (everyday/autox/trackday car)
While this was happening I also found a starter switch from a boat store that is completely sealed. Looks like a good option as well, and... I also bought one of those S2000 push buttons off of ebay, and surprisingly enough, the quality was real good, but more expensive then the other 2 put together.
As I bought both of these the "pep boys" model started working fine again. Go figure.
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-emwavey
A toggle switch and pushbutton start from just about any car parts store did the trick. Here's a link:
http://tinyurl.com/1vwa
There were a few weeks were the button wasn't functioning properly... I think the problem was from condensation from having the A/C on. (everyday/autox/trackday car)
While this was happening I also found a starter switch from a boat store that is completely sealed. Looks like a good option as well, and... I also bought one of those S2000 push buttons off of ebay, and surprisingly enough, the quality was real good, but more expensive then the other 2 put together.
As I bought both of these the "pep boys" model started working fine again. Go figure.
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-emwavey
Could you tell me which color wires go where on yoru aswitch etc ??
or email me off the list. [email protected]
Can you do a diagram of some sort and label the wire colors. This would be a great help for those of us who also want to get around having to use a key start. I'm in the midst of setting mine up and don't want to "reinvent" that which has been successfully done already. (BTW: Summit Racing sells Painless Wiring products and you can buy their fully sealed toggle switches.) My homemade panel has a single pole momentary, an spst regular and a dpst regular-all have a rubber seal inside.
Do let us all know which leads on the old switch harness you connected to.
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
Do let us all know which leads on the old switch harness you connected to.
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
anotherCRX
New member
To remove the steering lock pin permanently:
I did this yesterday.
1. Remove the plastic shroud as previously described, three screws underneath and the ring arond the column opening.
2. Remove the lock cylinder - the Helms manual shows how. Turn the key to I and press in the pin with a paper clip. Slide the cylider out.
3. You can now see the lock pin cam if you look down the lock cylinder bore.
4. On the passenger side of the lock housing there is a gold colored (chromate) steel cover in the aluminum housing. Drill through it near the back edge. I used a 1/4" bit and went just through the cover.
5. Use a screwdriver to pry the rest of the cover out of the lock housing. A spring, the lock cam and the lock pin will all fall out.
6. Replace the lock cylinder and the plastic covers and you're done.
Good luck,
William.
I did this yesterday.
1. Remove the plastic shroud as previously described, three screws underneath and the ring arond the column opening.
2. Remove the lock cylinder - the Helms manual shows how. Turn the key to I and press in the pin with a paper clip. Slide the cylider out.
3. You can now see the lock pin cam if you look down the lock cylinder bore.
4. On the passenger side of the lock housing there is a gold colored (chromate) steel cover in the aluminum housing. Drill through it near the back edge. I used a 1/4" bit and went just through the cover.
5. Use a screwdriver to pry the rest of the cover out of the lock housing. A spring, the lock cam and the lock pin will all fall out.
6. Replace the lock cylinder and the plastic covers and you're done.
Good luck,
William.
Sorry it's been a while since I've checked the IT board, and quite frankly I didn't expect any replies to my slightly off the subject comment. I'll check it out and give you guys a hint of a diagram.
You can also, if you have a shop manual, read the wiring diagram. It's a little confusing at first, but one you figure it out, it's very thorough.
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-emwavey
You can also, if you have a shop manual, read the wiring diagram. It's a little confusing at first, but one you figure it out, it's very thorough.
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-emwavey
Thanks for your response-we await the updated info.
Meantime, I have found several alternate solutions to the Ignition switch itself. The first is from NKK (www.nkkswitch.com) and is their "S" series HiCap toggle rated at 50 amps@30vdc. The unit I'm considering is model S732-this could be mounted in an auxiliary panel along with the starter toggle/pushbutton and whatever other switching is needed.
The second possible solution is made by Potter and Brumfield and is used in the aircraft industry (www.tyco.com/PB [I think]). The W31 series is also a toggle but is a thermal circuit breaker-the P&B rep is concerned about vibration but says it could well do the job.
These are not a replacement for the master kill discussed earlier. Both products are available from Digi-Key and other distributors.
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
Meantime, I have found several alternate solutions to the Ignition switch itself. The first is from NKK (www.nkkswitch.com) and is their "S" series HiCap toggle rated at 50 amps@30vdc. The unit I'm considering is model S732-this could be mounted in an auxiliary panel along with the starter toggle/pushbutton and whatever other switching is needed.
The second possible solution is made by Potter and Brumfield and is used in the aircraft industry (www.tyco.com/PB [I think]). The W31 series is also a toggle but is a thermal circuit breaker-the P&B rep is concerned about vibration but says it could well do the job.
These are not a replacement for the master kill discussed earlier. Both products are available from Digi-Key and other distributors.
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'89 CRX Si-SCCA ITA
'96 Civic HB Just cruising daily
'99 Prelude=a sweet song in motion
therooster
New member
I do not know alot about Honda's but..
What I did on my car was fill the slot the ignition's dead bolt went into. on my car the shaft was easy to remove and thus use a welder to fill the slot and then grind the results smooth. Don't know if it is any help but works on my car.
What I did on my car was fill the slot the ignition's dead bolt went into. on my car the shaft was easy to remove and thus use a welder to fill the slot and then grind the results smooth. Don't know if it is any help but works on my car.