Stock carb ITC Prepped - '87 CRX DX

D

deadpool7372

New member
Howdy,

I hope this subject has not been beaten like a dog.
I have read posts over the last week to get as much info as I could before I asked.
I’m also a member over at Redpepperracing.com.

I want to know more info on modifying my stock DX, USDM, ’87, CRX, carb.

There is an article posted on November 08, 2002 by Davidov with the title “Stock carb ITC Prepped, Emissions? Mileage?” that gave me more info then anywhere else.
Specifically, Greg Gauper gave some great info however, I need more detail. As I am newb at carbs.

I need info on:
Remove all of the choke plates and linkages etc
- Can anyone elaborate?

Take the guts out of the fuel evaporation chamber and make a blanking plate
- Huh?

Remove the anti-run on solenoid and snip the head of the pin off and replace, or remove the solenoid and plug the hole with a screw and some JB weld.
-What will cut the fuel off when I want to kill the car?

Anyone know any articles I can read on Jetting?
-Get (make) some slightly richer jets for the primaries

I did this one:
Plug all the vacuum lines to the carb
-First thing I did, take all the emissions stuff out and cut the walls off the air box so the sides of the filter are exposed

I have no clue on this one:
Bimetallic valve ?
-I thought this was part of the temp controls
-I think I removed this when I de-vacuumed the car…


I’m sorry about the long post and so many questions.
I am car literate but not carb literate.
This is my first cerebrated car and I am excited about learning.


I have bought an extra carb to “Play with.”

Anyone who can or is willing to help me learn please post away!

Ya HeArD?!?
-Garth
 
Originally posted by deadpool7372:


I need info on:
Remove all of the choke plates and linkages etc
- Can anyone elaborate?

You can remove the choke plates, linkage, and controller (the round black thingy held on by three rivets). You need to remove the small screws that hold the plates on, and the you can slide the shafts out. When you are done, the only items left are the throttle plates for the primary, secondary, and prechamber. Keep in mind the car will be a bit cold blooded when you remove this stuff. You'll have to pump the gas pedal once or twice to getthe car to start and then play with the gas pedal to keep it running until the water gets to 140 degrees or so. Once warmed up, the car should run fine.

Take the guts out of the fuel evaporation chamber and make a blanking plate
- Huh?

That is the large metal tube that runs to the charcoal canister. Remove the plate with the tube attached and make a simple aluminum plate to cover the opening. Note: If the car sits for a long time, fuel will evaporate and you may have to crank for 30 seconds or so in order to refill the fuel bowl.

Remove the anti-run on solenoid and snip the head of the pin off and replace, or remove the solenoid and plug the hole with a screw and some JB weld.
-What will cut the fuel off when I want to kill the car?

The stock fuel pump is mechanical. When the engine stops running it doesn't pump fuel.

The anti-run on solenoid is designed to prevent 'dieseling' when you shut the key off, but this isn't needed on a racecar, at least mine never did.

I did this one:
Plug all the vacuum lines to the carb
-First thing I did, take all the emissions stuff out and cut the walls off the air box so the sides of the filter are exposed

I have no clue on this one:
Bimetallic valve ?
-I thought this was part of the temp controls

This is the small valve on the 'snorkle' part of the air cleaner. Normally it has a heat riser duct running from the bottom. Remove it and cover the opening.

If you aren't sure about the mods, send it out to Perry at Rivergate. I think they charge $250 for cleaning/prepping.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Greg Gauper.
Thats what I needed to know.

I still need to learn more about jetting but this is a great start.

Thanks!
-Garth
 
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