Suzuki Swift GTi VIN info

R

racer-025

New member
As requested from another post: According to the OEM Suzuki Swift shop manual the VIN number is somewhat vague on its break down. To get the detailed info, the dealer will probably have to be consulted. However, the info as indicated in the manual;

My VIN number is: JS2AA34S0K5107169
JS2 - World Manufacturer Number
A - Car Line
A - Series
3 - Engine type
4 - Design Sequence
S - Body type
0 - Check digit
K - Model year
H - 1987
J - 1988
K - 1989
L - 1990
M - 1991 and so on.....
5 - Assembly plant
107169 - Sequencial number

Also according to my OEM manual, GT/GTi models all came with P175/60R14 and ALL Other Models came with P155/70R13

Models covered:
GTi, GT
All Other Models:
GA/GL/GS/GLX

edit: if the ITCS lists the GA as DOHC and 14" wheels, according to the OEM Manual that isn't true. It must be a miss print.

[This message has been edited by racer-025 (edited December 10, 2002).]
 
So, is it safe to say that the Car Line or Series designates the model (GT/GA/etc.)? Does the Engine Type digit indicate SOHC vs. DOHC? Displacement? what?


As far as the ITCS having incorrect information for a given model on the spec line, this wouldn't be the first time it happened.

And, while I appreciate the VIN# breakdown, it doesn't say if you can tell the two models apart by VIN#.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
SCCA 279608
 
Thats where the VIN number is so vague. It doesn't break down the numbers and exactly indicate all the required info. Thats probably where the dealer will have to be consulted. Probably on micro-fiche. The engine code has the same corresponding code on the block. The manual doesn't list exactly what the "3" means or what other number codes are available.

Bill, are you contemplating coming over to the dark side?

I think the Swift GTi is a very under rated car. It is very simplistic in design and very easy to work on. I captured 2nd place overall in regional ITB this year (Vantage #51 - kicked butt) with the Swift. After a complete season, I noticed several items within my setup that require changes. I plan on campaining the Swift again in 2003 with several changes in mind. Also, I am planning on doing perhaps LRP and NH too.
 
Bruce,

No, I'm not considering a Swift. I'm just interested in there being some way to tell a GT/GTi from a GA by the VIN#. And, from what I read from the ITCS spec lines, they have the same motor, so that's not going to do it.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
SCCA 279608
 
You would think that this error on the GA model (with the DOHC engine) would have surfaced before this. What happens when there is an error in the ITCS like this one?
 
If you've got the data that supports it, send it in. From what I've seen in the past, they've issued something in FasTrack in E&O.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
SCCA 279608
 
The way I read that, they were selling the whole thing, not parting it. Also, looks like a GProd car.

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MARRS #25 ITB Rabbit GTI
SCCA 279608
 
Apparently, this car was never raced. It was on ebay as a rolling chassis with several parts missing. I talked to Rick and he is now going to part it out. Lots of trick parts there if anyone would like to build a Swift. Also, generic items like the fuel cell can be bought separtely.
 
that is one funny looking swift. wait they all look funny. And hear i thought my swift had a mean spliter.
frown.gif
Do you think anybody would mind if I ran his moter next year? jk

5th ECR series
6th ARRC enduro
 
Yep.
It was nice to meat you. I hope you bring yours to this years ARRC. Even if you dont bring your car it would be good to see you at the next ARRC. You were crewing for the VW Gti that won the enduro last year? Congradulations that car looked real good as it flew by me.
smile.gif
Although it did depress me to find out my car might be the only swift that is plegued with problems. We have been runing the car for 3 years and are yet to have a weekend without a macanical failure.
frown.gif
But hey I am glad someone can make a swift work right.

Good luck this year and I hope you do well in that series you run. (sorry i forgot the name of it)
 
What kind of mechanicals are you having? Also, where do you send your tranny's for rebuilds (I know they break all the time). Is there a swift tranny guru somewhere ?
Also, do you run coilovers in the rear? I know there is some cutting required to install them.
 
Yeah Super Swift,

You folks were having all kinds of miscellaneous problems with your Swift. I am currently building 2 IT spec engines for my car for this upcomming season. I don't do the gearboxes though. I have a specialist that is very good with these boxes. If you wish to elaborate again on some of your problems I will try to help you out. You can email me at [email protected]
 
Well i think i am going to knock on wood after saying this but we are yet to have any transmition problems. Maybe that is because we have the folks at OPM (they are out of atlanta) build them for us. I also feel that basicly the motor is bulett proof. It is the things that bolt to the motor that make for problems.

Most of the problems come from the vibration of the motor. Shakeing bolts loose (This alone has claimed 2 timeing belts) breaking wires to the motor (This is were all my eletrical gremlins live. Luckly none of these have taken the car out of a race.) Putting a stay rod on the motor helped but it is still a problem area.

The other problems are just random acts of japanes engeinering. Head gasckets, wheelbearings, flywheel, distributors, fule rails, cast iron suspenten parts, and still more. Most are likely never to repeat and are only problems on my swift. I think my car might be a lemon.

The only anser is to have a vast supply of spair parts. That I am always working on making larger. The other anser is to make Blue locktite your best friend.

racer-025
Thanks for offering advise I might take you up on that at some point this coming season.

zooracer
In the rear of the car I just run the stock spring (cut) in its stock location. it is a cheep easy way and seems to get great results while not weakening an already fragile area of the car. Wait i just contradicted myself. The hole car is fragile!

Dont get me wrong but if i could go back and build a different car I would. Swifts are fun to drive but I would not advise anyone to build one. I feel safe in saying that because my car is not for sale and I am planing on running it as much as I can in 2003.
 
Yeah I know, just about everyone has said I shouldnt build one. I am taking delivery of it next weekend (live in south florida). I am thinking of getting it running and then deciding what to do. I might be interested in selling it, parts or whole. Body is great, with faded paint. One tranny and engine should also be good, we will see. Interior is also complete.
 
Hey super swift or others, who does your engine rebuilds ? I am looking for someone to build it to IT specs and was thinking maybe doing something like BSI racing or other race shop and just supplying all the engine parts (rod bearing, pistons, gaskets,etc.) I know there is no one out there who really specializes in swift motors so what other choices do I have ?
thanks in advance
matt
 
Theres no real secret for building the Swift engine. I am currently building 2 engines now. Any top IT engine shop should be able to fulfill your needs. The Suzuki engine was designed & built very well right from the factory. This engine will rev to 8800 without having to upgrade to racing springs and/or mechanical conversion. I shift mine at 8200. If you look at the flow bench results on the stock head & cams, you will notice that the head flows well without any mods using the stock cams. That being said, you can buy the performance chips for the ecu to get the fuel curve more diserable for the top end. Things to note about Swift engine rebuilding: Replace the main & rod bearings. They tend to wear. replace the rod bolts/nuts. Unlike other engines, the valves tend to wear and will knife edge causing lower compression. IMO, do not use synthetic oil during the break in period. You will get blow by. Otherwise, just build it like other IT engines. I use all Suzuki parts. One thing I don't like about the Suzuki specs is in the specified torque numbers. Unlike Honda were they indicate an exact torque number (ie: 23ft lbs) Suzuki indicates a torque range (ie: 21-24ft lbs). I don't like that. Anyway, if you would like to know specific questions, just email me a note. I will gladly help. [email protected]
 
Thanks much, I may not have considered replacing the rod bolts/nuts. This is the kind of inside info that I am looking for. Sounds like I will find a good engine builder and go for it. I got your email and I will definitely contact ya with questions in the future.
thanks again
matt
 
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