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Bildon

Bildon

New member
April Fast Track....The ballast situation has been addressed, you can now put it anywhere between the footwell angle and the back opening of the door.

So put it as far back as possible....
 
Ummm.... am I missing something??? "Now" isn't the operative word...as the rule (grumbling,) doesn't become effective until 1/1/07.

Unless you know what the yet to be published...(today?) Fastrack has to say...
 
on a related note....

what should a fully-prepped 86 GTi weigh dry/no-driver? I have this 2nd hand "turn-key" ITB car and I am new to the game?

Thanks,

Jim
 
Speaking for me, and I hope most of the IT community, if someone protested ballast placement now before 1/07, I think they would cross line form rules nerd to rules nazi. Boo Nazis.
 
Jim, The spec is 2280# as raced. (with driver) so there is really no "dry" spec.
Make it as light as you want and then add back in weight as needed.

Note to uncreative rules nerds: YES there are many legal ways to add weight back into a car over and above the balast limit.
 
Jim, The spec is 2280# as raced. (with driver) so there is really no "dry" spec.
Make it as light as you want and then add back in weight as needed. [/b]
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I was hoping someone might divulge what a light dry VW A2 8V would weigh...
 
I have no idea. I would rather know what my car would weigh with me in it since thats the only number that matters.
 
I have no idea. I would rather know what my car would weigh with me in it since thats the only number that matters.[/b]
Click to expand...

Let me ask it another way.... how much ballast do people usually end up adding on an A2 assuming they are a 180 lb. driver...
 
I am currently 175#. I run 50# of ballast and a spare tire (22#) and at that point I am using fuel to make weight. I will likely add another 25# plate so I can run less fuel at Watkins Glen and VIR.
 
I weigh 180 with helmet etc. on. I have 100# of ballast, a spare, carpet/insulation/sound deadening. I am close enough to use fuel to fine tune.
 
you must have a really lightweight cage, because even with most of my undercoating removed I dont need that much ballast.
 
OK.. this is the kind of data I was wondering about.... I have a chance to borrow some Longacre scales for a week and wanted to have better idea what I should be looking at. Thanks!
 
you must have a really lightweight cage, because even with most of my undercoating removed I dont need that much ballast.
[/b]
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It is the correct size tubing, but we did not skimp. It is 8pts with driver side intrusion door bars, roof diagonal, wheel intrusion bars, front cross bar, triangulated passenger opening and gusset bars are all included.

Starting with a factory non-ac, non-sunroof, non-power steering car seems to be the first step in getting a light A2. So basically it's not that I'm good, but that I'm lucky - it was the only free GTI that I had to turn into a race car :P
 
The car I bought started life as an no AC with sunroof, no power GTI. Its gutted, I have a very solid cage with only 6 mounts, nascar bars on the driver, and 2 bars on the passanger side. 80% of the undercoating is gone and it came in at 99# under. When we corner weighted the car with the spare, 50# and an estimated 170# for me and a 1/4 tank of fuel I was 5# over min weight. VIR I was going out with 2/3rd a tank of fuel to ensure I had enough when I came in if I was told to roll the scales. Which is why with the Glen I plan to add a plate so fuel becomes less of an issue.

I guess I referring to a min size molly cage. My cage is 100% 1.75 .095 DOM so I know its heavy, but thats ok with me.
 
Wow, I didnt know there was that much savings in a no sunroof car. I have an 85 golf GL sitting in there if I ever bend this tub, so I guess I know I can make it lighter then this one.
 
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