tounge weight

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dazzlesa

New member
i have a 20 foot enclosed trailer with a 2500 lb car and 3200lb trailer. 7000 gross weight total. how do figure out the tounge weight or what should it be close too? thanks rick:shrug:
 
Saw a guy try considerably less than 10%, just the other day. More accurately, I saw the results... i.e. a trailer pointed mostly in the direction of travel and a pickup about 140 or 150 degrees from that, while still hooked to the trailer. Needless to say, there were some pickup and trailer pieces that were dimensionally out of spec as a result. :o

This guy was pulling a single axle trailer with a 1/2 ton pickup, the trailer having been loaded with another 1/2 ton pickup. From a weight distribution standpoint, it didn't look too bad until you noticed one detail - he had the pickup loaded backwards! Didja ever notice that pickups tend to be quite heavy on the front axle? I'm willing to bet there was less than 5% tongue weight on this setup, might have even been negative.
 
so does a weight distribution hitch with 800 tounge weight soung right? 10% of 7000 is 700 or should i give it a fudge factor and order bars that are rated @ 1000. i am going from a open trailer to a closed trailer and i am not into surprises on the first journey.
 
I have about the same setup and use a 1200 point weight bar. If it is possible and does not make the truck sag too much I would go higher. Unless the truck complains I don’t think you can have too much.
 
dickita15 said:
I have about the same setup and use a 1200 point weight bar. If it is possible and does not make the truck sag too much I would go higher. Unless the truck complains I don’t think you can have too much.
Click to expand...

Of course you can have too much. You should use load bars rated properly for the load.

They are basically just additional rear springs. Too much spring rate and not only do you get a horrible ride, you lose some bump compliance, etc.

EDIT: Sorry Dick, I think I misunderstood you. You meant that more tongue weight is good, and that you can then relieve that additional tongue weight with bigger load bars ... I had read it as "you can't have load bars that are too big."
 
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Load bars, in effect, take weight OFF the rear wheels. Taken to the extreme, load bars can be set up to where the rear tires have ZERO weight on them, where the weight is distributed between the trailer tires and the front wheels of the truck. Ergo, best to load them properly.

Load bars should definitely NOT be used as a crutch for an incorrectly-loaded trailer or truck not designed for the task (i.e, insufficient truck rear load-handling capability). If you transfer too much load forward on the truck using load bars you'll get handling characteristics similar to not having enough tongue weight (ask me how I know...) - GA
 
BTW, if anybody is looking, I've got for sale some 750# round bars for the Draw-Tite and a Draw-Tite friction sway control unit (no plates or balls), cheap (like, maybe a case of my favorite brew, kinda cheap, especuially if I don't have to ship). I bought 1000-pounder bars and Reese dual-cam anti-sway when I went to the new trailer... - GA
 
So what are you guy's using to weigh the tongue to get the 10-15%? We have a new trailer and need to position the car on the trailer to get the tongue weight correct but I am not sure how to weigh it? :shrug:
 
I loaded the car on the trailer and then put a jack stand on top of a scale(I have a 2000lb car and an open trailer) and lowered the trailer coupler onto the jack stand. Boom ! thats your tongue weight. Since yours is a lot more weight than mine you might have to make friends with your local city dump or somewhere that has a bigger scale (maybe your local Jenny Craig??)
 
If you want to know the tongue weight every time you load your trailer get one of these.

http://www.senzbar.com/


Tell them I sent you if you buy one. I am in discussions with them to become a distributor. Thanks
 
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