TriLink Installation

R

rlekun

New member
I've installed my TriLink set-up, but every time I look at the Differential Housing mount, I can't help but feel it should have some additional structural strength or support. I butt welded the entire outside edge where it contacts the housing, and about half of the inside edge. It seems solid, but I want to make sure it doesn't rip off under hard cornering loads (gulp!). Maybe its just my less than perfect welding technique I don't trust!

Has anyone had any problems with this or did any of you add some additional support? I was thinking about trying to form (to the curve of the diff housing) an L shaped bracket to support each side, and/or adding a piece of metal at the back end across both vertical pieces.
Thoughts?
 
That should ease his mind
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Does anybody have anybody have any back-to-back lap time comparisons for stock Watts vs. Tri-link (after minor recommpensating suspension tuning)? Does it improve lap times or just subjective handling (over/understeer)and driver feel?
 
The weak point on the third link set-up actually appears to be the curved link itself----under hard braking with a downshift that bounces the rear end the curved link has been known to bend and or break. (this covers several different manufacturers of this added link.
 
Rich, sorry, can't give you back to back comparisons. Don't know that I would if I could
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What I can tell you is that when I got the car from TYSILU he had already eliminated the watts and had a GC panhard installed. I then upgrade to the tri-link before even trying it with just the panhard.

Judging by his lap times in the car vs mine I'm slower. Then again, I haven't had to do the amount of body work that he normaly did either
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Hmmm?
 
Lee, your reply added to my anxiety. If the force is hard enough to bend the link, I'm concerned the rear mount won't hold. I think I'll add some bracing that will give me more weldable surface.

RRich, I want to be able to quickly convert the car from trilink back to watts link (just in case). So at a track day or double regional I'll be able to get a direct comparison. I think all I need is an extra set of upper control arms to do the swap easily at the track (avoids having to swap out rear bearings). I'll let you know if I do the above.
 
Rlekun "concern"-----from what I have heard the rear mount weld on is not a weak point---any sort of semi-reasonable welding should work-----IF there is a link failure (rare) the car is "reasonably controlable"- (gets noisy of course and it is obvious that all is not well)--the soft bushings installed on the upper links will of course crush and be movement limited by the steel eyes of the upper links----way too much axel .
rotation to continue to race but----"safe" enuf to get back to pits under control (limited speed of course) without tearing anything else up. We broke one and no other damage was incurred and a friend broke one (both were the link at the bend) and nothing else was damaged.

Checking the link for "crush" on the inside radius of the bend will give advance indication of a failure. On our pre race check I noticed a "rough-spot" on the inside bend of the link and passed it off as attributable to the initial bend formed in manufacture---NOT---- it was in fact the start of a "crush" kink forming.-----2nd session on the next test day and the link broke at the rough spot. Then we determined (from other racers ) that the links do occassionally bend/break-----typically atribited to bouncing the rear with a downshift under heavy braking.
 
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