mazdagt3, the attached post is copied from the Mr Mazda (Felix Miata)site. The address is
http://mrmazda.members.alantic.net/main.html
I can never get directly in through the address so I go through the Milwaukee Region site & link my way through using the CenDiv Spec-7 link. I am not saying your motor is carbon locked, but if it is this seems like good info.
This covers a carbon lock pretty well. DON'T ROTATE THE MOTOR IN IT'S NORMAL DIRECTION WHILE IT'S LOCKED
:Why is my rotary engine locked up? It started just fine when I moved it out of the garage to wash it. Ever since I finished washing it, all the starter will do is click.
This isn't good for any engine, but you found the rotary engine achilles heel. You are playing Russian Roulette by starting a cold rotary Mazda engine and not allowing it to warm up completely before turning it off. If you do this often enough, eventually one of two things will happen. Far more common is that you will flood it. The relatively rare, but far more disastrous, possibility is carbon lock. Just don't do it. If you must start it cold without letting it warm up completely, let it run at least two minutes. The longer the better.
Carbon lock is just what the name implies. A piece of combustion chamber deposit, which is made primarily of carbon, has dislodged from the face of the rotor and wedged in between the rotor apex and the rotor housing, preventing forward rotation.
If the engine has carbon locked, the only direction to turn the engine is in reverse. In-car this should be done only one of two ways. If your bellhousing has a hole aligned with the ring gear teeth, you can pry the flywheel through the hole. Otherwise you must remove the starter to use the flywheel ring gear teeth to force the engine to turn in the reverse direction of normal. Mazda makes a special tool for this purpose, part number 49 FA42 065 for manual transmission engines. Any other in-car method will just compound the problem, further wedging the carbon between the apex and the housing.
Trying to turn the stuck engine with the eccentric shaft bolt will only do one of two things: badly overtighten the bolt, preventing its later removal when the engine needs to be disassembled; or, loosen it, again accomplishing nothing regarding the s tuck engine. Trying to turn the stuck engine by pushing or pulling the car rarely works either. You don't have any control if you have to force it that way. Once the engine is broken loose, you don't want to turn it very far without determining if it will again stick going that direction. Once there is some freedom, usually the engine has to be worked back & forth until the carbon breaks into small enough pieces to let the engine turn all the way around freely. Towing or pushing the car in either direction doesn't allow you the use of any finesse.:
------------------
Have Fun
David Dewhurst
CenDiv Milwaukee Region Spec-7 #14
